i got to deal with my cel. i have put it off long enough. German Star price for maf sensor alone 139.00 + shipping and autohausaz.com for complete unit with housing for 173.00 with free shipping. i have order from autohausaz and they are excellent. so its just 20 dollars differnce. what do you guys think?
which company have a better chance of not sending me a faulty sensor? i read waynes post about how he replaced his maf and still get the cel and went nuts trying to find the cause. which a faulty maf is the culprit.
i just replaced my brake switch also, which is another common problem for our e class.
Generally speaking you never have to worry about buying the whole assembly, and Ron has noted that when his current stock of sensors runs out he can't get more as his supply line for them has dried up.
Interesting that Autohaus' price continues to drop. When I got mine it was $200 and change.
Did you run codes again or just "assume" that the returning cel indicated the MAF (which as I recall was your code before and then you cleaned it)? In my case that's how it played out, intermittent CEL, codes for MAF, cleaned it, went off for about a week, cleaned it again, went off for a month I think, then came back on, never to go off again.
Remember conventional wisdom is to reset everything (battery disconnect/brake pedal thing) when you install the new MAF and then drive normally for a week or two to let everything re-adapt. Likely there are some things compensating for the MAF right now and that lets such things clear out.
Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
__________________ If the only prayer you say in your life is thank you, that would suffice. Meister Eckhart
When you learn from your own mistakes, that's experience.
When you learn from the mistakes of others, that's wisdom.
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Generally speaking you never have to worry about buying the whole assembly, and Ron has noted that when his current stock of sensors runs out he can't get more as his supply line for them has dried up.
Interesting that Autohaus' price continues to drop. When I got mine it was $200 and change.
Did you run codes again or just "assume" that the returning cel indicated the MAF (which as I recall was your code before and then you cleaned it)? In my case that's how it played out, intermittent CEL, codes for MAF, cleaned it, went off for about a week, cleaned it again, went off for a month I think, then came back on, never to go off again.
Remember conventional wisdom is to reset everything (battery disconnect/brake pedal thing) when you install the new MAF and then drive normally for a week or two to let everything re-adapt. Likely there are some things compensating for the MAF right now and that lets such things clear out.
Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
thanks greg, i remember last time i checked at autohausaz price was over 200, they dropped alot. i didn't recheck the codes but just assume its the maf, i cleaned it, it went off a couple of times. the first time it went off for a couple of months. now its just on all the time. even after a battery disconnect it would come back in about 15 minutes of driving.
about the the )brake pedal/battery disconnect thing) do i just disconnect battery and then press on the brake pedel for like 30 seconds and let things reset. install the new sensor then reconnect the battery. is that everything i have to do when putting in the new sensor?
I remember something about getting a maf off of ebay?(the big no no)
Just install the new unit when you get it from autohausaz.com make sure you check all the clamps and air hoses are on straight and just drive it will adapt,no need to clear the code.Besides clearing codes by the battery just shuts off the light,if the condition still exists it is stored in the cars ecu and if not corrected comes back on.
Haven't you gotten your #94169 obd2 code scanner from
harborfreight.com/
so you can check your own codes
ohlord
thanks greg, i remember last time i checked at autohausaz price was over 200, they dropped alot. i didn't recheck the codes but just assume its the maf, i cleaned it, it went off a couple of times. the first time it went off for a couple of months. now its just on all the time. even after a battery disconnect it would come back in about 15 minutes of driving.
about the the )brake pedal/battery disconnect thing) do i just disconnect battery and then press on the brake pedel for like 30 seconds and let things reset. install the new sensor then reconnect the battery. is that everything i have to do when putting in the new sensor?
Hey, mb. While ohlord is correct that things will adapt on their own, they'll adapt more quickly if you do the battery disconnect and let them start from "ground zero". It's the conventional wisdom and I've not seen any reason to deviate from it. Now if you have several codes that have likely been triggered from one source, then you wouldn't want to do that as it will erase the codes and then you may have masked another issue. Or if you're getting ready to go in for an emissions test, it will take a while before things return to the "ready" state that will allow the test. But absent such things, I follow the conventional wisdom on the MAF. Just be sure you have your radio code before you do the reset procedure. Disconnect the negative chassis lead from the lug behind the panel in front of the rear passenger seat and then step on the brake pedal for 30 seconds. Change the MAF, reconnect the battery (close the rear door if you can, it reduces the current draw and resulting spark, but always wear eye protection anyway) and then start 'er up and go through the resets (windows, sunroof, ABS, radio, etc.).
The last time I did a reset I didn't resynch my rear windows because I thought that might lessen the odds of a regulator failure, they seem to break in the lower half of the drop, so if they don't roll all the way down unless you do it on purpose, maybe....
Vehicle: 2001 SLK 320(96K Miles), 2002 E320 Special Edition(113K Miles)
Location: South Bay Area,L.A., CA
Posts: 1,175
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregs210
Hey, mb. While ohlord is correct that things will adapt on their own, they'll adapt more quickly if you do the battery disconnect and let them start from "ground zero". It's the conventional wisdom and I've not seen any reason to deviate from it.
I know that is something that it said here quite often. I do not think that it clears the KAM RAM where the adaptation values are kept - it merely clears the error codes - and I think pressing the accelerator pedal also clear the driver-adaption for the gearbox. MB states that full adaptation will be reached after approximately 10 trips.
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just an update, i just received the sensor today and got it installed. i did disconnect the battery and step on the brake for 30 sec. So far so good with no cel after 2 starts and driven about 30 miles. Another excellent buy from autohausaz.
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