Water Pump

[cerritos]

TNTRower,

Did you torque each bolt when you did the water pump work? or did you just hand tighten them?

Also, did you tighten them in a special order to make sure they are evenly torqued?

Thanks.



http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...-pump-wis.html

[TNTRower]

I just put them back on. Do not overtighten or else you will take the heads right off. You can never go wrong if you torque to spec.

[cerritos]

I'm certainly willing to torque them to spec. Do all the bolts have the same torque value? If so, what is it?

[TNTRower]

They're all different. Look at the WIS that is part of the link. I believe they are all at the end there.

[cerritos]

Let's see whether I got it correct or not.

The "Bolt for the alternator" 4i M10 x 110: 42 NM
The 4 "Belt pulley to coolant pump" is 9 NM
I suppose the "coolant pump to timing case" screws are pre-tapped, so M8 is 25 NM, M6 is 10 NM. So, 4b, 4c are 10 NM; 4d, 4e, 4g, 4h are 25 NM. However, this is based on the assumption that they are pre-tapped. Since they are used, they are pre-tapped (??).

[TNTRower]

Originally Posted by TNTRower

I just put them back on. Do not overtighten or else you will take the heads right off. You can never go wrong if you torque to spec.

Hence my response.

[cerritos]

I did my first ever water pump job today. I also used graf.

I used the torque values that I posted earlier. Seems to be okay. All bolts to the timing case are perfectly torqued.

However, I did break one bolt head off, the one that is securing the bracket to the new water pump which is a new tap. It's not critical. I just used a tie wrap to tie the bracket. It has nothing to do with the functionality of the water pump.

I first marked bolt numbers on the WIS diagram. I then used scotch tape to mark each bold as I remove them (scotch tape on the bolt and write the bolt number on the scotch tape). When I put them back, I know which bolt goes to where, and the torque value.

I did need a third hand when I put the first bolt back. It's not easy to try not to move the seal while aiming the new water pump to the timing case and trying to insert the first bolt. It went okay though.

I hate to raise the vehicle and get under it to drain the engine block. So, I figured that the total capacity is 9.5 liters. I will need 1 gallon and 1 liter of MB coolant. I ran three times distilled water flush, i.e., fill with distilled water, run, then drain. This kind of diluted the old fluid inside the engine. I then filled 1 gallon and 1 liter of MB coolant. That's about half of the total capacity. I then filled the system with distilled water.

Thanks to TNTrower's DIY. It made this job possible.