Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

Flushed my tranny

190K views 193 replies 70 participants last post by  R_Bur  
#1 · (Edited)
OK I found that this line IS the one bringing hot ATF into the cooler. Flushing the ATF was really easy. But I botched it so it was a mess for me. I had gingerly opened the line wondering if it was ATF and it was ! So I bought a 5/8 inch clear tubing and marked a few gallon bottles with 1 liter intervals.

However, for me this is where I screwed up. It got hot and I decided to drive 30 feet into a sheltered area with the line still unhooked (I kind of hand tightened it thinking heck it is only 30 feet).

The result was that the whole engine compartment was doused with ATF.

Anyway the rest of the process is really easy and anyone can change their ATF without any mess and no need to climb under the car!!!

Remove plastic tubing that attaches to Air Filter housing. Click for larger pictures.

[URL=http://img410.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img3378ql5.jpg][/URL]


This is the hose I loosen using an adjustable wrench. Picture is looking from the top and the hose is on the passenger side of the radiator. The oily mess was because of the earlier mentioned fiasco. When you open the hose (engine NOT running) nothing leaks out.

[URL=http://img138.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img3329hp5.jpg][/URL]

[URL=http://img329.imageshack.us/my....jpg][IMG]http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/6061/img3329ik5.th.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Next step connect 5/8 inch tube to the cooler line and thread the tubing through the air intake next to the grill.

[URL=http://img399.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img3330co9.jpg][/URL]

Thread tube through hole for air intake

[URL=http://img166.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img3331cl6.jpg][/URL]


Stick tube into marked bottle and start the car. 1 liter out, stop the car and fill in 1 liter of fresh ATF. Then start the car again and stop engine when another liter is out followed by 1 liter of fresh ATF. Liquid is brown. A very easy job.

[URL=http://img255.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img3332ly3.jpg][/URL]
 
#184 ·
nice job..i had the trans service done at a Mercedes Indy shop a few months back and the transmission shifts so smoothly now. Worth every penny if anyone experiences hard shifts between any gears. The car has 173k with no service records provided.
 
#187 · (Edited)
To make you guys feel better about Maxlife or Valvoline Import, I have used both of them on my W210 and also a friend used them on his 2005 W211 4Matic, I have started to use it around 100K and when I sold the car last year it had 245K on the clock and shifted like butter. The kid is still driving it daily so its still around.
My friend did Uber with his W211, he purchased the car back in 2013 at 112K on the clock and we did the first change at 115K, he also sold it last year with 350K on the clock, due to catalytic convertor issues, the price to replace them exceeds the car`s value, but still original engine and tranny.
I have done pan&fluid&filter method, done Yumling method couple of times.
722.6 is such a beast, love that tranny, so easy to maintain.

Forgot to add, I also helped another friend with his W210 to do Yumling method, it should be in one of these pages, I posted here some pics. Same story he has 130K back then and when he sold the car, it was over 200K maybe 210K...
 
#190 ·
I know this is an OLD thread, but it still seems valid.
HOWEVER the various links in it are either obsolete or somehow wrong.
Could the Author PLEASE update them ?

BTW I just did a trans fluid change on my 2000 CLK 320 and on THAT car I was unable to remove the drain plug. I stopped just before the torx head socket stripped and dropped the pan instead.
Easy enough if you are careful - remove the two bolts farthest from you first, wait for the leak to slow, then the middle two, bigger leak, then slowly loosen the closest two. Jiggle it a couple of times at each stage to slop out more fluid. Even with the pan on the bench I couldn't get it out with an impact driver, so I think Mercedes decided on their POLICY of don't change the fluid to epoxy the plug in (-:
 
#192 ·
It isn't THAT bad of a job to drop the pan with fluid still in it.
As I said, pause at each step until the leak slows, lift the pan a couple of times and lower it quickly to surge a bit more fluid out - and eventually hold it up with one hand while removing the last two bolts (closest ones to you).

I did the "suck through the fill tube" trick on a Ford Fusion and got out about as much as most posters said they got out by draining.
On the Ford my choices were more limited since I couldn't get the bottom cover off.

The NICE thing about dropping the pan is that you get to see any metal or other debris - and can clean it out.
Mine was clean, but a LOT of debris could be a signal of ...whatever.