Noticed the air would not cool down so I did the tests recomended off these posts. Freon was low in system.
recharged freon and same problem after a few weeks.
since I have an extended warranty that covers air conditioning I took it to the dealership.
received a call saying I didn't have enough freon in the system and that in order to fix problem they would have to recharge system and find leak.
the only issue is that the warranty doesn't cover recharging system but would pay to have it fixed once located. the dealership now wants $230.00 to find leak.
how hard is it to find a leak ?can I do it on my own?
Vehicle: 2001 E320 - Brilliant Silver/Ash: MBCA member
Location: The Mountain State
Posts: 6,381
$230 sounds a little high but that's nothing compared to what a new compressor, condenser, or evaporator will cost.
I think to find a leak you need to recharge it, add some dye, and take a special light to look for where the dye is escaping. If I were you, I'd just let the dealer do the entire job.
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leak.Go to harborfreight tools and they have an r134a sniffer for about 70 bucks,toss in a can of 134a and follow the instructions till you locate the leak.It is very sensitive and not messy like the dye.A leak that large out to set it off the moment you get near it.
when done with the sniffer sell it to someone on the mb forum that needs to do the same detection
Vehicle: 99 S420 (76k Mi) 90 300SE (87k Mi) 08 Lexus ES350 (7k Miles) 07 GMC Sierra (8k Miles) Sold list -->
Location: FL
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First you don't have any freon in your car (hopefully not), because if you did, it would be a problem. Freon= R12. Your car runs on R134a.
Second, dealer is ripping you off big time. Go purchase a can of R-134a at an auto parts store or even Wal-Mart and make sure it has UV leak detection die in it (specially labeled). Fill the system until you hit the specified oz rating (or until full) and run the A/C for about a week or so. Then take a UV light and go over as many parts of the system components as you possibly can (in a garage with minimal back lighting). You will see a green glowing substance coming from any leaks. If the car has ever been in an accident, the leak will most likely be found in the condenser. If you can't see any leaks, then the most probable source would be behind your dashboard in the cooling coil which is located in your blower unit.
Location: West Bloomfield, Michigan (just north of Detroit)
Posts: 96
My 1998 e-320 (97,000 miles) had a hole in the condenser.... After a radiator shop charged it up with the r 134-a with the tracer, they just took the ultraviolet light.... the leak showed up by shining the light through the front grille. He did it for free (Commerce Radiator in Commerce, Michigan).
I purchased a new Berh condenser and dryer on-line and installed myself (by removing the radiator, ect) I did a real through job cleaning everything when it was all removed.... then put it back together. Then took it back to Commerce Radiator for a charge ($120) no leaks.... runs very well! The ac unit working is also very important in the winter for defogging the windshield and side windows as the condenser removes the moisture.
But then whoachubby, winter driving won't be an issue where you live
leak.Go to harborfreight tools and they have an r134a sniffer for about 70 bucks,toss in a can of 134a and follow the instructions till you locate the leak.It is very sensitive and not messy like the dye.A leak that large out to set it off the moment you get near it.
when done with the sniffer sell it to someone on the mb forum that needs to do the same detection
Thanks OhLord...
My EC light stays on also....
Is it the EC light indicative of a leak 100% of the time or could it be just low on refrigerant?
The EC lamp can come on for a number of reasons, one of which is low refrigerant. Other common failures that cause this are the evaporator temperature sensor and a failed magnetic clutch fuse.
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