nice

work:thumbsup:
:bowdownhlord

 

Digital Camera, $200.

Miscellaneous supplies, including a freebie like Monster Garage: $26 plus tax

A little time and perspicaciousness: zero dollars.

Gaining immortality with a TIPS/TRICKS sticky post on BW: Priceless.


Nice job, Drew.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

 

WOW. You really made professional tool.
How hard is to pump the sprayer to 35 psi?
I have one, but it has a piston gauge with no scale, so didn't want to spend that much time to convert it. The spare tire system was much easier.

 

Thanks for compliment. Could not have done it without your help!

I don't know that I would do it much past 20 PSI. As for the 35 it is a whole lotta pumpin' to get it there. Just to get to 10PSI with one bottle of Brake fluid was about 15 -20 pumps.

 

Verry good job Man

:thumbsup:

thanks a lot

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Tristan

 

For making better PDFs, try this:

SourceForge.net: PDFCreator

It's a Windows printer that produces PDF files. It's free and works very well.

 

I've thought about doing this but am a little concerned about the safety of the plastic cap, fittings, etc. and the 2Bar of pressure required. I've got regulated air in my garage and the gage on the compressor is fairly accurate. I've found a source for the 45mm caps made from aluminum but they're $$$.

I've got the MOTIVE bleeder. It works well enough but takes a while to get it pumped up to bleeding pressure and then it leaks a bit, which requires more pumping. It's less than optimal for the MB cars.

 

I have all the parts to make this except a master cylinder cap and I'm less than $17 into it. The only source I've been able to find is eBay and it costs $13 plus $4 shipping. So at $17 I'm not saving much over buying a Motive. No Mercedes over a 93 in the pull it parts yard. Any one got any ideas where to get one?

 

As you can read above, the old BMW cap fits the MB and they come with hole already in it.

 

The only on hand caps at parts stores are American caps. Can you give me a definition of "old BMW"? What years would work so I can look for one?

 

I think all years might work. Usually on junk yard I could find 10-25 years old German cars.
Don't you have junk yard in your neighborhood?

 

Yes I do, but it is about 30 miles away out of the way from my normal drives. So that is over $8 in fuel plus the yard fee plus whatever they charge me for the cap. And according to their site they only have two BMWs there are no guarantees the caps are still there.

So unless I'm driving by for some other reason it doesn't make fiscal sense to drive there just for the cap. That is the main reason I wanted to know what years would work, to try and eliminate some of the chance that those cars' caps wouldn't work.

I was thinking I could pick a cap up at the parts store for $6 or so. At closer to $15 I'm putting my total at over $30 not counting the parts I have lying around. So it seems I wouldn't be saving much over buying a Motive. I found one for about $45-50.

 

The MB dealer should have the genuine MB cap for $13 list, the MB cap is like $12 from aftermarket like autohausaz.com. Your choice sales tax or paying shipping., or add other parts you need for $50 order for free shipping from autohausaz.

Keep the beat !

 

This tool has one big issue - soft and leaking cap. This cap will not allow you keep pressure more than 5..10psi. It will leak a lot and will not handle pressure. Don't ask me why I know . You can buy very good cap in ZDMak or in Motive website, but their caps are little bit pricey and final bleeder cost will cost very close to new Euro Motive Bleeder.

 

I was putting 36 psi on my system using BMW cap and spare tire for pressure just fine.
I have to check Graphir if I might have extra cap that I collected years ago. The biggest junkyard in the World I used to have 20 miles from my place closed down, but I have lot of extra stuff in my garage. I am taking off for 3 days trip in just minutes, but will check later.

 

would this work. Just a cap on the reservoir with the air port access to your compressor. So you set the compressor at 2 bar, fill your reservoir up and you should be good for one wheel at a time. Any comments?

 

Air compressor directly brings too many risks. What is your problem to hook up the hose to spare tire - constant pressure, low moisture and no risk of getting 5 bars by accident.
If you buy "Fix a flat" it will give you wheel connector with hose.

 

I have used a home made bleeder that uses a small pressure sprayer for years. The caps I picked up at a junk yard and they came off a Cadillac! Same cap is used on many cars, although mostly Euro cars.

As you can see from attached pictures, I put a fender washer on each side of cap to strengthen it. I also put the dip tube on the inside. It just reaches the required level. After pressure bleeding or flushing, I screw the pump out which releases pressure in the sprayer and the fluid syphons back leaving the proper level in the reservoir.

I just drilled and tapped a hole in the plastic sprayer for the pressure gauge. No problem pumping up to 35 psig. Depending on how much fluid is in tank, may have to pump a few extra times after each bleed.

You need to put in enough fluid to keep the tube inside the sprayer flooded and reduce the volume of air that has to be compressed, so get as small a sprayer as possible. I forget just which brass fittings I used, but they are readily available. I think I used some sealant in the cap hole and under the washers.

Buying a ready made kit would have been a good option. But less fun

 

I don't see it mentioned here, but if you are flushing your fluid and have not changed the seals between the reservoir and the master cylinder in say 5 or 10 years, you might consider doing so. Consider the fun you would have pressurizing the reservoir to 30psi only to have the rotten thing launch, spraying paint-eating brake fluid everywhere.

Yes, I have seen it happen, I even suggested it was a possibility before the gentleman started to pressurize the unit.

 

I don't see it mentioned here, but if you are flushing your fluid and have not changed the seals between the reservoir and the master cylinder in say 5 or 10 years, you might consider doing so.

This is a good point. I have been lax lately, but I used to be anal about tying a strap around the reservoir and MC during flushing. Those seals would leak on my 300D if I wiggled the reservoir. The area below the MC is now painted with black POR! I did change the seals!

 

replacing the reservoir to master cylinder gasket seal is a good idea since some of our cars are over 17 years old. the gasket is like $2.
personally i have found that fluid extractor (mityvac 7201) works pretty good in bleeding brakes. imho mityvac 7201 is by far the best investment i have done, since i can change engine oil, transmission fluid, psf, and bleed brakes all in one unit.

 

personally i have found that fluid extractor (mityvac 7201) works pretty good in bleeding brakes. imho mityvac 7201 is by far the best investment i have done, since i can change engine oil, transmission fluid, psf, and bleed brakes all in one unit.

I have that extractor. How would you use it to bleed your brakes?? OK, I guess you must not be pressure bleeding.

 

The reason for this simple setup I thought of was to decrease the amount of tools that I own. :/
I guess I'll make my own, it'll be fun. Thanks for the pictures MBGraham.

 

Technically you could suck ATF as well, but transmission does not have filters (just strainer) so wiping the heavy residue from pan bottom is crucial part of the service IMHO

 

valve

I have not done a DIY brake job in years, but would it not be a great help to have an in-line air valve on these contraptions?

 

I have not done a DIY brake job in years, but would it not be a great help to have an in-line air valve on these contraptions?

Yes, I have one on mine. I used a valve stem with a cap to keep the dust out when the unit is not in use.

 

I have made my own out of a garden spray bottle. Forgive me but I'm seriously failing to see the point of installing one of those air valves Unless this is for compressor air supply.

 

I had same question. Pump does job. But I suppose for those who want to use tire pressure it could work.

By the way, someone mentioned the seals below the reservoir. Some of the commercial units come with hold downs. I tie a strap around the reservoir and master cylinder. I can't quite envision the W210 setup, but on my 300D it wouldn't take much to pop the reservoir off!