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Duovalve Removal and cleaning

174K views 97 replies 38 participants last post by  Suzie_Tall  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hey, folks.

Since the directions to R&R and clean the duovalve are spread throughout a few threads across this forum I thought it would be useful to put them in one single post that we could sticky for the DIY thread.

Credits to: wood'sbenz, raymond- and netdvn for the following information:

Before starting, here are a few tips:

- BE SURE not to break off the small wiring attached to the gadget.
- BE SURE to pack towels beneath the duovalve to soak up spillage
- BE SURE not to drop screws or parts when removing and installing

The duovalve is located on passenger's side in the engine compartment. It is easy to spot as it has two small cylindrical aluminum cylinders. There are 5 torx (I think t-10) screws holding it together. With the car COLD, remove these torx screw (use a magnetic drive so as not to lose a screw). Leave the electrical connection alone. Once the screws are removed, gently remove the aluminum cap of the duovalve - pulling straight up - you may need to use a thin/flexible putty knife to GENTLY loosen it at first.

(When reinstalling, the two small screws in back side are tight clearance so you can use painter's tape and poke a hole for the screw. Before it's fully tight, tug on the tape and rip it out.)

After you remove the aluminum cap, you'll see two plungers in the lower portion of the valve. Gently remove the plungers, dry and clean them with a clean rag - you can use carb cleaner if they're really funky. Once cleaned, lubricate the lower portion of the plungers with some Vaseline and put everything back together.

(Greg's note re: lube... I haven't done this but I think that plumber's silicone grease would be more effective for lubing the plungers, not petroleum based, thinner so it's less likely to impede actuation of these little things, lasts longer, etc.)

netdvn's pics from the longest AC thread in this forum are seen below. Note that in this case he cleaned the duovalve with it installed in the car. If you're going to do the DIY fix from gt4rcdude then it's probably easier to remove the duovalve (personally I think I would remove it to clean it, less likely to drop things, etc.).

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[ADDITIONAL INFORMATION] The 1997 E420 (210.072) duovalve is COMPLETELY different, and cannot be easily dis-assembled for cleaning / repair. The same valve is also used on the 1998-1999 E300 turbodiesels (210.025) and CDI (210.026). More details in this thread:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/w210-e-class/w210...nary-tale.html



Thanks again to all who contribute to this forum, it helps so many.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
 
#41 ·
The driver's side was getting warm, cool on the passenger's side. I did the work yesterday. My duovalve looked similar to the above. It was easier to work with the connector removed. To remove it, I pressed the sides of the connector then gently lifted it out. Lining the well with paper towell to prevent losing screws was a very good idea. I did drop a screw but it got nowhere to hide.
I cleaned the rust and "gum" on plungers with rubbing alcohol then let them dry. I did not need to lube anything. I think the slippery coolant will lube everything inside. Putting everything back, I ran the AC but the driver's side was still warm. I removed the duovalve again. The engine was just little warm, coolant was pushing out. I uncapped the coolant reservoir, the coolant stopped coming out. I reseated the duovalve, put in the 3 screws near the firewall but not yet tightened, press the opposite side of the duovalve to see if the springs spring up the duoavalve a little to ensure the alignment, put in the remaining 2 screws, crisscrossing tightening the all screws. I noticed that the screws needed to be turned (not so hard) until they could not be turned anymore to ensure no leak. AC diagnosics showed 14 on sensor 7. I put in a little freeon to reach 15. Now I can drive in today's 105 degrees in LA without sweat.
Thanks for all tips.
 

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#4 ·
I managed to do mine today at work. After listening to everyone else I was so careful and knew what to expect I did not loose anything and I did not have to cover the body cracks and crevices. I did however draw blood from my thumb trying to unplug the connector, boy your fingers have to be tiny to reach down in there. After 30 minutes of trying and nursing my injury I then realized that the connector does not have to be unplugged. Here are some pics for future reference so folks can see different views of what it looks like and how the electrical connector does not have to be unplugged.
 

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#6 ·
There is only one duovalve, and it regulates engine coolant flow through the heater cores.

Set the temperature control to "LO" on both sides and turn off the AC compressor by pressing the EC button and turn the fan on low. Then measure the air temperature at the dash vents on each side.

Under these conditions, if one side is hotter than the other, the problem lies in the duovalve or the pushbutton unit.
 
#8 ·
#10 ·
Duo-valve would be indicated when temps

were far apart.Air flow could be a stuck flap.Check your pse.
ohlord:bowdown:
 
#13 ·
It's normally covered up - the photo is with the cover removed.
 
#21 ·
ILJ, would it help with Euro spec cars (as maybe yours is)
 
#23 ·
^^^^^ What he said, if you have the pushbutton HVAC system, then use the GREAT built-in diagnostic that is explained in the stickies.
 
#28 ·
Now that's a very good question. It would be nice to have a pair of connectors so that you could easily wire a meter into the line, but that's a bit much to ask most times. What you want to know is the current demand from the motor. I don't know offhand what it should be, but not a lot more than one amp.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Thanks Matt, when I turn off the car and hit the rest button, the side vents blow again, not that warm though. I have the following questions.

1. I know duo valve DTC should be 1417 and 1418, but could the duo valve blockage cause DTC 1416? I am hoping it can because this is an expensive part.

2. When I remove the aux coolant pump for test, should I clamp those 2 hoses or just let the coolant flow and add back some later?

3. Any tricks on removing the clips/clamps on the hose? Do I have to break them?

Thank you.

Just for reference:
 

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#33 ·
I had that pump bad on W210 and it is using magnet as a clutch. Meaning frozen pump will not freeze the motor. I know that the recirculating pump in ML runs some time after turning off the ignition to eliminate "hot spots" in the engine. Haven't notice that in E, but after being married for more than 1/4 of Century I don't hear everything anymore.