I would strongly suggest POWER BLEEDING (as per WIS), instead of VACUUM. There is a greater change of causing bubbles in the system by "sucking" rather than "pushing" the new fluid through the lines.
Also, I know many who advocate (including me) changing the fluid EVERY spring, especially if you live in a humid environment. It is such an easy, quick, job.... and since the cost of ABS parts are astronomically expensive, why take the chance? But, this is just my .02.
Has any one ever used ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid in the Merc? When they serviced my E320 they used OEM. I have used this in my old BMW, but was curious if anyone is using this is there MB?
I use it in my '99 E300, my '82 320i, and my '05 Pathfinder. Great stuff. I change it out every two years using the TYP 200 (same fluid but an amber color). Makes it easy to see when the old stuff has run through.
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1982 320i
1999 E300DT
2005 Pathfinder LE
I would strongly suggest POWER BLEEDING (as per WIS), instead of VACUUM. There is a greater change of causing bubbles in the system by "sucking" rather than "pushing" the new fluid through the lines.
Also, I know many who advocate (including me) changing the fluid EVERY spring, especially if you live in a humid environment. It is such an easy, quick, job.... and since the cost of ABS parts are astronomically expensive, why take the chance? But, this is just my .02.
G-AMG:
I've used your procedure for years and found the British made Eezibleed unit is great. You need to use the spare tire for pressure but the unit itself is very compact. It also comes with the Ate type cap adapter for our cars.
This is in my view a very easy and cheap DIY job and the most rewarding since you can really feel the difference in the brake pedal. I feel the updated two year interval is toooo long for me.
Cheers
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“Design embodies the values of a company. Even if there were no star, the car must always be recognizable as a Mercedes-Benz.” Peter Pfeiffer, Daimler AG
You can get a pressure bleeder for $30 to $40 or build your own for less. Until you've used one, I can't tell you how nice it makes that job. Driving around with ten year old brake fluid is not a good thing. Not only is your brake system probably less efficient than it should be, but maybe more importantly you are allowing moisture contaminated fluid to lay in your system. This WILL eventually lead to failure of something in your brake system, be it a master cylinder, a booster or the ABS unit. It's a whole lot cheaper to change your brake fluid every two years than to have to replace an ABS unit in ten.
Vehicle: 2001 E320, 1967 Porsche 912, 2005 Kia Spectra
Location: Northen CA
Posts: 307
Thanks for the input, I had the dealer flush the system. The where more than happy too. Didn't even charge me, and I got a Latte. Brakes feel noticably better. I think everyone should be conscience when it comes to proper services being done on time.
You can get a pressure bleeder for $30 to $40 or build your own for less. Until you've used one, I can't tell you how nice it makes that job. Driving around with ten year old brake fluid is not a good thing. Not only is your brake system probably less efficient than it should be, but maybe more importantly you are allowing moisture contaminated fluid to lay in your system.
I know how hard it is to believe in something you have never seen in your life. I grew up in 4-seasons, where cars have been totally corroded in 5 years. Now after couple of decades in CA I still get surprised how big difference the weather makes. 30 years old cars with no under-body protection and no rust damage?
Driving diesels in CA took me several years of wasting my time observing water separators for moisture before I learned that the moisture accumulation in CA simply never happens.
So I feel for the guys who have to change the brake fluid every 2 years and deal with other moisture-related issues.
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