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Hello! I am new to the forum and I just replaced my bushings and links. And it seems the clunk I have happens more often, although the car is tighter still clunks

 

Thanks for the great DIY G-AMG!

JOE55

 

Hey, G, thanks for another great DIY. It looks like your first pic has a typo, hard to tell with the yellow font against the reflection but it looks as though it says remove "tie rod" and it's actually the link attachment bolt...isn't that the tie rod above it in the shot?

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

 

Greg,
Yes, bad choice of words. It should say "Remove Swaybar Link Bolt" with T50 Torx bit.

Sorry. It was kinda late...

 

G-AMG, Thanks for such of helpful post!

I just done this job and would like to share some experience with it. Unfortunately I don't have a big lift as G-AMG has and did that job on my parking lot. For that case you have to add floor jack as additional, required tool.
When you remove torx bolts from the links (picture 1), then you have to support sway bar by floor jack at middle point before then you start unscrew bracket's screws. Don't forget to put some piece for wood between jack cap and sway bar (you don't want to leave any scratches there).

Jack support takes out any pressure from brackets and bolts will go a way much easier. For my case it was critical. I have torx bracket screws there and didn't want to cut their heads (Don't ask me how I know that ).
One more thing - ensure that you put right head shield on bracket. They are Right and Left side.

 

As Bansai said, make sure you check the kind of bolt heads you have on the brackets. Mine were also the torx type and without the proper socket the chances that you'll round them off and end up with more problems is pretty good. Make sure you've got the proper socket before starting. BTW, the new bolts are hex head, so Mercedes must have figured out that some folks had some problems with those torx types. Also, I found it very easy to pull off the old links while the sway bar was still attached to the car. Just give a good pull and off they come. To reinstall I stood the sway bar up on several thicknesses of cardboard, set the new sway bar in place on the bottom end, lifted the sway bar with the new link in place and gave it a good rap or two on the cardboard and it popped right into place.

Len

 

G-AMG

Do you realize how timely your diy is?See below post
"Help with identifying a sound."
Had him checking the drop link and bushings and there you are with the diy.
Saved my fingers a whole lot of typing.Besides I have never figured out how to put text on a picture,so all anyone ever sees is my finger pointing to the part
NOW IF HE COULD BORROW YOUR LIFT HE'D BE IN FAT CITY:thumbsup:
:bowdown:

 

I replaced my mashmellow front sway bar bushings and end links this weekend. Not too hard of a job. I spent more time on the phone arguring with Eibach than it took to do the job.

Here is the scoop: I replaced my stock swaybars with Eibach sway bars back in 2003. The car ran great until recently. Clunking on both ends of the car. I called Eibach to inquiry about their bushings. Simple question, are the bushings rubber or otherwise. After a lengthy conversation they finally stated that they were rubber. Ok, what size? More lengthy dialogue and finally they give me the sizes. 29mm for the front and 20mm for the rear. I took these sizes and went to Energy Suspension for their polyurethane bushings. The front is part# 9.5170G and the rear is 9.5156G. I also got end links from AutoHauz.

The job for the front required a T50 torx bit for the end links and a E10 six point socket for the sway bar brackets. Unbolted the end links then the brackets and removed sway bar. Had to do the removing and installing parts in the house (too cold for that). To remove the old end links I took a razor and cut the outer rubber lip off the end link bushing and then just slid the end link off the bar. Then I just cut remaining bushing off the bar. Slid off the old sway bar bushings (marshmellows) and slid the new bushings with grease fitting brackets on the bar. I used the supplied lube on the bar and inner bushing. To install the new end links I soaped them with Dawn dish detergent and using one of the old end links with the rubber bushing removed. I placed the old one on the floor and placed a new on on top of it. I then placed the sway bar on top of the new link and just pushed it into to place.

Now don't do what I did and install the wrong end link to the incorrect end. You will not realize this until you go to install the bar and the end links are facing the wrong way. That was good for a laugh!!! To remove the new snug fitting end link I just placed the end link on the floor and placed two jack handles on the end link and stood on them with one foot on each side of the link. I then pulled and worked the sway bar and it popped free. Don't forget the Dawn before you try this. Once the end links were correctly installed I reinstalled the sway bar bolting the sway bar brackets 1st but not tightening all the way to insure play when lining up the end links. Tightened the end link bolts, then tightened down the sway bar brackets. Now the front is complete and the rear is next. Can't do them until I receive the rear stabilizer links in 2 days.

 

ZX,

Sorry to hear of your "misadventure" of mixing up the links. Ha! I was afraid of doing the same exact thing!, which is why I did one at a time, and posted my "warning" (4th pic).

The Meguires Rubber and Vinyl cleaner worked Ok at getting the links back on.

 

This is what happens when it is 20 something degrees out and you try to rush. Good thing I could bring the sway bar in the house. Good lesson learned for me and everyone else that will successfully complete this R&R.

 

Do you have to get an alignment after this procedure?

ALSO, VERY IMPORTANT: Is there any member here you is an avid DIYer who would like to do this for my car? Someone that lives close to I-95 anywhere between NYC and Raleigh, NC? I can pay or buy them a case of beer

 

Sway bar bushings and links do not affect the alignment.

 

Hi G-AMG,
Would it be possible for you to post a list of all of the parts along with their numbers to do both sides? Also the tools needed. I can't really tell from the pics as my eye site is getting temporarly worse due to my diabetes being uncontrolled whic is cause my optic nerve to swell. It will take a few weeks to get my eye sight back after my sugar levels come back to normal. I would really appreciate this.
Thanks

 

Cancer Researcher,

Sorry to hear of your optic nerve problem. Diabetes is a TOUGH road.

Anyhow, here are the items you requested. As a "Hint", you can double click on the images I post, and see "the real thing" which is MUCH more clear.

Again, we are ASS-U-Me-ing your model has the same part numbers...Here we go:

Bushings: (TWO NEEDED) A 210 323 14 85

Link: RIGHT- A210 320 37 89 LEFT- A210 320 36 89

Bushing Bolts: (FOUR) 13mm hex heads. N 910 106 008 019

Link Bolts: (TWO) T50 Torx heads. A 210 323 05 71

I hope this helps.

 

Thanks sir,
I really appreciate you going out of your way for me. God Bless.

 

How much labor should I pay an ASE certified master technician to do both sides. I have found a couple of them who will come to my house and do it. They have all necessary tools to do the job. I e-mailed them the link to this thread. They are charging $100-$120.
Thanks

 

Im gonna do the front and rear anti roll bar bushings and links this weekend and the front shocks as well , thanks for the DIY GAMG will be a help to me . Ill let you's know how to goes for me .

 

Bushing bolts - stripped?

Anyone else has problems taking out the bolts that hold the bar on? I stripped 3 out of 4. And now I cant get "3" out of 4 off?? I have the replacement bolts, however the current bolts sheered like butter when attempting to remove. Any advice on removal? Thanks!!!!

 

Anyone else has problems taking out the bolts that hold the bar on? I stripped 3 out of 4. And now I cant get "3" out of 4 off?? I have the replacement bolts, however the current bolts sheered like butter when attempting to remove. Any advice on removal? Thanks!!!!

I just did mine and one of them was VERY hard to back out but it eventually came out okay. Not sure why it was so tight because there was no corrosion evident.

 

Should the bar be removed with the wheels on a ramp or should the car be jacked up on stands with the suspension hanging?

 

I had the swaybar bushings and links replaced on both sides but the rattle/clunk is still there over bumps at low speeds. Also I hear the same sound when I turn the steering wheel to the right but doesn't happen when i turn it left? What could be the problem?

 

Geez, G, everyone is jacking your post, dood.

LCAs? Ball Joint? Shocks? Dig in and examine....

Should the bar be removed with the wheels on a ramp or should the car be jacked up on stands with the suspension hanging?

Answered your other post....hanging.

Anyone else has problems taking out the bolts that hold the bar on? I stripped 3 out of 4. And now I cant get "3" out of 4 off?? I have the replacement bolts, however the current bolts sheered like butter when attempting to remove. Any advice on removal? Thanks!!!!

You're talking about the heads stripping? Vice grips, drill and E-Z out, etc. I had to pull mine when I did the exhaust, they were tight but not that bad.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

 

By the way, thanks to the OP for the DIY.
One quick tip that I don't think anyone mentioned.
I found a very simple way of getting the end link on. Coat the inside of the link with some kind of vinyl treatment, lay a towel on the floor, lay the end link on the ground, put the sway bar end into the link hole and push hard. It should just pop right in!
Make sure you've got the link positioned correctly!

 

Thanks, this is my main concern for doing this. I can see my bushing worn badly. Thanks. By the way, what is your arm's circumference?

 

Matt is right, I am a very small size person, not sure if I can pop it right in even following your lubricating method on the end link.

 

Getting it in doesn't rely much on a person's strength.
You're mainly using the weight of the bar itself and just using a bit of downward pressure to pop it in.

 

You are right, I was thinking MV what? Thanks for correcting me. Lamborghini is good enough.

 

Yeah, I'm the Ducati rider, ILJ. I'm only moderately jealous of those who live in paradise and own AMG and MV vehicles. On the other hand we have lots of long, straight, smooth roads for exploring (ahem) high-speed acceleration.

I'm still trying to figure out how to borrow one of Ren's rides when I next go to HI....

 

Thanks G-AMG and the rest, I finally changed my swaybar bushings and drop links with my mechanic friend (of course he did most of the hard work and broke the t50). It makes a hell lot of difference on handling and stablity. Just want to post some pictures and suggest everyone perhaps to change them yearly. OEM parts are not very expensive:
Bushing x1 = US$7
Drop link x1 = US$13

 

Thanks rennwerks, I did this last night, your tip on putting the new end link in worked right away...!!!

 

iluvjesus,I don't know how you removed those T50 bolts. This is how I did it.
Before then start unscrewing this bolt then you need to depress sway bar. Put garage jack under lower control arm and jack it little bit.

 

We did jacked up the front. Wheels removed. 8 years never touch the T50 It was really tight, plus the key is made in China. We tried with a 2 feet steel bar and the key broke. Then we took out the german key from the "C-Fu" box without permission, and succeeded. I must admit you did a very neat job. Thank you.