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Old 04-22-2009, 08:10 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Date registered: Sep 2006
Vehicle: 2008-C300, 2000-E320, 2004 Ranger, 1973 Silver Shadow
Location: Winter Haven, Florida
Posts: 104
Here is a list of every repair done to my car since it was purchased.

Rear Window lifter replaced at 13,533 miles
Shut off valve, control unit replaced at 15,331
Exhaust manifold replaced at 22,315
Radio/head unit repaired at 31,446
Rear window lifter replaced at 31,446
Instrument panel replaced at 32,071
Radio/head unit repaired at 32,071
Seat occupancy recogniton element at 32,071
CD/DVD changer electrical fault 33,813
Hydraulic unit ABS Leaking 39,123
Catalytic converter 39,123
Spring in steering spindle noise 42,434
Beverage holder broken 43,875
Telephone control unit 43,875
Rear window lifter replaced 44,003
Telephone hand receiver replaced 44,150
Transmission shifter unit 55,631
Brake light switch 55,631
Brake line main brake cylinder 72,410
Catalytic converter 73,834
Harmonic balancer 73,834
Fuel tank transmitter Electrical fault 78,646
Engine mounts replaced 78,646
V belt tensioner 80,659
Rear main seal leak 98,295
Rear spindle bushings replaced 98,295
Brake light switch 106,500

I'm at 107,000 mile and the steering wheel spring squeek is back, and the passenger seat belt squeeks, but no one hardly ever sits in it, so it can wait. The pixels are almost all out on the clock and the transmission indicator, so I'll be taking it out and sending it off for repair soon.

Not too bad for a car that's over 9 years old. Of course this doesn't include regular maintence/normal wear items.
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Last edited by tpowel2 : 08-07-2009 at 05:35 AM.
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:33 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Date registered: Mar 2008
Vehicle: 99 W210 E300 TURBODIESEL, 85 W123 300E TURBODIESEL
Posts: 17
I bought my 1999 E300 TURBODIESEL @ ~~100,000 miles, here's what I have done since:

Brake light switch - replaced
Engine and Transmission Mounts - replaced
Tail Light Bulb Sockets - (I bent the contacts slightly, which has cured the false alarms)
Fuel System - O-Rings replaced with Viton ones from the handy kit I got from some dude on the internet.
BAS/ASR - wheel sensors "cleaned"
Outside air temperature probe - cleaned the contacts, fixed it right up.

BAS/ASR problem 1:
symptom: BAS/ASR warning when brakes were applied.
cause: faulty brake light switch
I got my brake light switch from the stealer, I think it was under $30.00 but can't be sure. I took the old one apart, and saw that it was clearly broken inside. Problem fixed, or so i thought.

BAS/ASR problem 2:
symptom: intermittent BAS/ASR warning
cause: dirty wheel sensors?
cleaned the wheels (this was done by a shop) I was suspicious at first, but I haven't had a problem since (after more than half a year)

Tail light bulb sockets. I can't see how they ever worked. Crap design. The firmware is crap too (shouldn't set a warning for such a brief fault)

Engine and Transmission Mounts - After a little fender bender, the car was terribly rough at idle, decelerating, reversing. Sometimes reversing would kill the engine. It shook the whole car. Made the glove box squeak. After replacing the mounts it was smoother and quieter than ever before.

Fuel System - A familiar story, it died while at a red-light, on an incline, with low fuel. Hard starting when cold, intermittent power loss, etc. Replaced the O-rings. I didn't even replace them all. The transparent fuel lines make it trivial to find most air leaks. There is a dude (Jim Davis), he sells a made-up kit of all the O-rings you need. It is like 20 or 30 bucks. I highly recommend it. He sends it right away. I think the other option is replacement fuel lines from MB @ ~ $80.

needed repairs:
bushings, I have a little slowly increasing rattle in the front
I have an intermittent problem with the A/C. The passenger side sometimes gets hot air, which is never needed, or desirable in Texas. It is rare, but have to shut the car down to correct it.

Other annoyances
Tow hook cover fell off. Exterior plastic panels that only snap into place are bogus.
Dash cracks. I am getting cracks in my dash.
A few interior squeaks and rattles. Streets are terrible here. I think it is much noisier inside than my buddy's '93 300TE.
The plastic "pleather" on the console armrest is a disgusting funk attractor. It doesn't like for you to clean the funk off of it, either. Same for the door panels and steering wheel.
The steering wheel squeaks/creaks when turned.
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Old 05-31-2009, 09:17 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Date registered: Feb 2007
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 59
so, this is a great list.. but where is the "how do we fix these problems" mine are mainly the sunroof goes one way, electric seats go one way, back not forward... and bottom seat heaters are bunk.

and you forgot the cloudy headlights.
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Old 06-01-2009, 06:29 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Date registered: May 2006
Vehicle: 2001 E320 - Brilliant Silver/Ash: MBCA member
Location: The Mountain State
Posts: 10,086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel 10 View Post
so, this is a great list.. but where is the "how do we fix these problems" mine are mainly the sunroof goes one way, electric seats go one way, back not forward... and bottom seat heaters are bunk.
and you forgot the cloudy headlights.
Look up in the stickys at the top of the W210 page. You should find the steps to re-synchronize and that might fix your sunroof and seat movement. There is also a sticky thread concerning the heated seats. Good luck.
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Old 06-02-2009, 11:47 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Date registered: Feb 2007
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by Musikmann View Post
Look up in the stickys at the top of the W210 page. You should find the steps to re-synchronize and that might fix your sunroof and seat movement. There is also a sticky thread concerning the heated seats. Good luck.

thanks, but i am not finding that. i know where the stickys are, but i can not find links to:

steps to re-synchronize and that might fix your sunroof and seat movement.

and

heated seats
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Old 08-06-2009, 02:15 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jul 2009
Vehicle: 2003 w210 e320 wagon
Location: Culver City, CA
Posts: 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregs210 View Post
AT gasket, mileage w/o changing filter/fluid
Catalytic Converters (noisy)
Console Pixels
Corrosion in rear seat pan (battery)
Differential Oil Leak
Groaning/Moaning Steering
Harmonic Balancer (recall)
Motor Mounts
Rear Bulb sockets
Rear Main Seal (V8)
Rear Window Regulators
Rust at exhaust hangers
Rust - Body
Seat Heater elements
Sensor, CPS
Sensor, MAF
Sensor, O2
Serpentine Belt Tensioner
Spring Perches (non 4-Matic sedans)
Sunroof
Great stuff in this thread, in addition to the above. Thanks.

How about a summary of which items are easily DIY, which are marginal DIY (e.g. requires some specialized tools) and which are DIY only for the expert home mechanics (i.e. most of us would definitely take it in to a shop).

For example... I'm looking at the Motor Mounts. What's required to replace these? If you need an engine hoist, I can't do it. In fact, I don't know how I could do this at home.
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Old 01-01-2010, 05:25 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jan 2010
Posts: 1
Transmission

Now that a few years are on these cars, the transmission bearing problem with the planetary gear. The original bearing was sleeved & doesn't necessarily last, replacements are roller bearings and do. Approx. $2,000 fix, parts & labor.

Also, parking lamp sockets become brittle, break & should be replaced.

Last edited by bob k : 01-01-2010 at 05:44 PM.
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