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Old 12-27-2007, 11:26 AM   #41 (permalink)
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it may be a better idea to remove them by hand...but to put them back in , you still have to use a screwdriver unless you want to leave it loose...which may affect the glovebox (potential for rattling, etc).
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Old 12-27-2007, 11:34 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fju2112 View Post
it may be a better idea to remove them by hand...but to put them back in , you still have to use a screwdriver unless you want to leave it loose...which may affect the glovebox (potential for rattling, etc).

I screw them in by hand too in order to get them where I want them to keep the door from rattling.

Len
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Old 03-02-2008, 01:22 PM   #43 (permalink)
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guys, i have 8 screws to deal with: 4 visible opening the door on the top section: 2 metal screws and 2 of those rubber ones -described before- that easily lose their X grip when using too much force.
then, 2 more on the bottom below 2 rubber covers that can be removed with a thin piece of metal (knife or so), 2 upside down in the top section on both sides of the glovebox light.
tip here: use a short phillips screwdriver or the one from a pocket knife (due to limited vertical access), and a small pocket mirror (steal a make up mirror from your lady friend) to see where the darn screw can be accessed. it's a bit tedious, but it works.
now, after ALL 8 screws are removed, you can pull the box out (given you first removed the light + connection).
YES, you have to give it a rough yank.... there is a sort of lid there on the top from behind that gives some resistance, but we are stronger
this will probably NOT be successful if one only removed 6 of the 8 screws (as i read on posts before).
after that, easy peasy.... filter access as describe, change, enjoy.
the great news is... those 2 "difficult" screws on the top on both sides of the glovebox light do not need to be screwed back in my opinion. 6 (4 front, 2 bottom inside) are more than sufficient to keep that little & light piece of plastic in place, rattle free.
i know everything was described before, but saw many people asking questions still mentioning the removal of only 6 screws and running into problems, so thought i'd add my share.
probably another 100$ saved at the MB dealer.... so be happy for that! so much satisfaction in a job well done by yourself happy posting, especially on DIY sections. cheers
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Old 04-02-2008, 02:32 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Post Have an older e320 so where are the filters located?

Hello proud new owner of a 97 e320, n was goin threw the maint. paperwork inhereted lookin for cabin filter replacements w/ her n found no records so I am now jumping on it, but would like to purchase n d.i.y. it, but where are they located for my year? Thnx.:dunno
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Old 04-02-2008, 05:37 AM   #45 (permalink)
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pretty sure the 97, if it's the w210 chassis, should have the same location on the cabin filter, so just follow the DIY.

Congrats on the purchase!!
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Old 04-18-2008, 06:28 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Got my first shipment from autohousaz and hopped on the cabin and airbox filters. I didn't have the top two screws in the glove box as others have also mentioned. 6 total screws, two dirty filters replaced, total time about 35 min. Easily done thanks to all the moderators and contributions to these forums. Kudos!!
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Old 04-18-2008, 08:29 AM   #47 (permalink)
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did

you do the charcoal pollen filters also?
ohlord
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Old 04-18-2008, 09:55 AM   #48 (permalink)
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you do the charcoal pollen filters also?
ohlord
but they are toggle activated so hope they still have some life with the (est $100) price tag..
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Old 04-18-2008, 10:53 AM   #49 (permalink)
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$16

cabin,$87 pollen free shipping
Your Parts Search Returned 0 Part(s)
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Old 04-27-2008, 02:03 AM   #50 (permalink)
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I did mine and was shocked to see the condition, I had dead insects in mine and it was 100% clogged. My blower must have been nuclear powered to get past that.
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