ENGINE MOUNTS ? - Benzworld.org

luskred · 10-05-2007, 08:41 AM

Hello all
I live in dublin (ireland) and this is my first post on this brilliant site which i have found most helpfull on many an occasion,i drive a 1999 automatic E300TD, just lately i have noticed a bad vibration coming from the front of the car which my local mechanic has put down to a damaged engine mount, but i also noticed that the engine is not performing well and the gear shifts are a bit sluggish at times, i was wondering is this all down to the engine mounts or do i have another problem on my hands

, i would be grateful for any advise and i thank you all in advance for your replys,
cheers=LUSKRED

ohlord · 10-05-2007, 09:37 AM

on diesels fail sooner then the ones on the gas car,if it is bad it will cause the poor idle like feel and if collapsed can affect other systems.However the transmission issue is most likely from the trans fluid and filter not being changed.Mercedes goofed with the lifetime trans fluid ,and even they now rec changing the filter and fluid,and luck would have it,your's is the last year that had a torque converter drain so you can drain all the trans fluid,that will improve your shift guality and extend the life of the transmission.

G-AMG · 10-05-2007, 11:41 AM

One way of checking your engine mounts is this:

Pop the bonnet. Have the car pointed in a "safe" direction, just in case the brakes fail.

Have an assistant in the car, set the service brake AND have their foot on the foot brakes, then place the tranny in "Drive".

Have them GENTLY rev the engine up and down, during which you look at the "rotatory" motion of the engine. I did this test on my BAD mounts, and found an impressive movement of the engine, up to a SEVERAL INCHES. You can see here how bad off the mounts were:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...lacements.html

Hope this helps.

Cheers

ohlord · 10-05-2007, 04:28 PM

nice write up!!!!!!!!
I had a 1957 chevy that had so much hp that it snapped the mount on the torque side,the way I discovered it was much like your test,only more dramatic,much more!!!!!!! When moving away from a light at normal speed the car would accelerate under full throttle(mind you in excess of 450hp)at break neck speed as if possessed by some unknown entity

Quick,foot off the gas,nothing

still flying down the road!Key off coast to a stop,pop hood,rev engine,see it lift right off the mount and pull the throttle cable.
I for one highly reccomend your test procedure over mine

solution to it's power to mount issue ,a poly mount and a short chain on the torque side frame to engine to limit travel.
his solution replace that mount like you did.
thanks for the diy

gregs210 · 10-05-2007, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohlord

nice write up!!!!!!!!
I had a 1957 chevy that had so much hp that it snapped the mount on the torque side,the way I discovered it was much like your test,only more dramatic,much more!!!!!!! When moving away from a light at normal speed the car would accelerate under full throttle(mind you in excess of 450hp)at break neck speed as if possessed by some unknown entity

Quick,foot off the gas,nothing

still flying down the road!Key off coast to a stop,pop hood,rev engine,see it lift right off the mount and pull the throttle cable.
I for one highly reccomend your test procedure over mine

solution to it's power to mount issue ,a poly mount and a short chain on the torque side frame to engine to limit travel.
his solution replace that mount like you did.
thanks for the diy

Of course those experiences are what led to the motor mounts that had a cushion pad, but also a mechanism to restrain the engine when the rubber inevitably failed. There were -- as you can imagine -- quite a few lawsuits over unintended acceleration as a result of the throttle rod being pinned by an on-the-prowl-and-in-search-of-motor-mounts engine. Hence another improvement, throttle cables.

Take care and enjoy the properly-restrained ride,
Greg

Paul Mellerowicz · 10-06-2007, 07:43 PM

Very good pictorial about the engine mounts. How many miles should we expect to get out of the mounts?

I have been driving domestic cars all my life, mostly GM and Chrysler. And never, ever replaced engine mounts. So this is new to me.

Looks like tight quarters to work in. I see your operation that you have the car way up in the air.

How hard is the mount change proceedure if I only lift it up on jack stands and do the job on my back?

G-AMG · 10-06-2007, 07:55 PM

Paul,

Yes, it is a bit of a tight squeeze, so I doubt there is much of a difference between a lift, or on jacks.

Mine lasted 110,000. What I recall, it is not unusual for them to die ALOT sooner than that.

Paul Mellerowicz · 10-07-2007, 01:41 PM

I had my changed at the stealership back in Jan 07(at 95,000 miles), at a cost of about $450... That's my guess, I would have to look at my bill, but I may be sick, it may be higher. The dealer price is about $104/hour labor.... mounts were dealer priced at about $110 ea.

I can get the mounts for $65 ea. (free ship over $50) www.autohause.com

Next time, will will order the parts on line. I'm a DIY guy who has hair an my azz for such things (I then get my nails done after the job). Like I say, wish I discovered this site before I had it done.

ohlord · 10-17-2007, 06:21 PM

the crap the dealer puts out.!!!!!!!!
autohausaz.com less then 70 bucks per mount.OEM oil filled,original spec mounts.
Where do they come up with this crap?
Must be a class they all take in, job security!
Next thing he'll tell you is that the mass air sensor you want to buy for 127 bucks from Mercedes Benz Parts, Mercedes Parts, Accessories is liguid filled

and the one they sell is filled with helium

Dealers lie.
save money buy online at a known supplier like autohausaz.com germanstar.net etc.,and don't be misled by the dealer.

gregs210 · 10-17-2007, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohlord

the crap the dealer puts out.!!!!!!!!
autohausaz.com less then 70 bucks per mount.OEM oil filled,original spec mounts.
Where do they come up with this crap?
Must be a class they all take in, job security!
Next thing he'll tell you is that the mass air sensor you want to buy for 127 bucks from Mercedes Benz Parts, Mercedes Parts, Accessories is liguid filled

and the one they sell is filled with helium

Dealers lie.
save money buy online at a known supplier like autohausaz.com germanstar.net etc.,and don't be misled by the dealer.

Actually, the OEM MAF is argon-filled, with krypton sealer to hold it in. That's why it's $800 to change at the dealer....

That said, I'd almost be tempted to buy high-density rubber motor mounts (like what most other manufacturers use), since they'd never collapse again. I think mine are toasted, I recently have noticed that little vibration sitting at the stoplights...

But Darin, ohlord is correct here, the OEM ones you buy from autohausaz or germanstar or benzparts or so many of the other online suppliers are true OEM parts, meaning they're the oil-filled ones.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg