Replaced C220 mounts today without removing A/C compressor. After removing washer fluid reservoir and air filter housing I jacked the engine putting a twist/slant on the left side giving me the room to r/r the mount. Think this twist was same as using a tire iron to rotate engine. Car runs soooooo much better now.
IMPORTANT TO ELIMINATE FRUSTRATION...ON SOME MODELS...
I have a 1998 E320 W210 with a belt tensioner that has both a 19mm outer bolt (in the center of pulley) and a T-50 Torx with center 'nipple' or 'peg' in the center of the torx. If you can't get your tools on them to get a grip, take a look underneath the tensioner housing and to the left (passenger side on US models) and you might notice (on some models) a large integrated hex head (I think its a 17mm). You can slide on a socket and use this to release the tension on the belt.
I grappled with the pulley bolt and torx and found them to be stripped enough to cause great angst! Then I found out about the hex head nut underneath.
Problem solved...and now I can continue with my mounts.
Just did the mounts on my 1998 E430 - easy job! A BIG THANKS to G-AMG for the DIY and torque specs, much appreciated!
Some notes:
1) I disconnected the battery. Easy to do - there is a small plastic access panel in the rear passenger seat footwell area. An 11mm socket will undo the negative connection there. Remember to leave your driver's seat in the favorite position. Upon restarting the car and hooking the battery back up, I immediately saved the seat memory and you also have to re-sync the windows and sunroof (press up and hold at closed position for a few secs). Also got the BAS warning which went away after driving a bit and restarting.
2) There was NO NEED to disconnect the AC compressor with the M113 V8. At least not for my model year. As someone else with the V8 mentioned, there is plenty of room to slide the mounts out.
3) Only tools I needed were the standard sockets/ratchets, torque bar and a regular jack.
4) Tip about marking the old mounts with a Sharpie before removing to remember orientation is a good one! Make sure to line everything back up as per the little notch.
5) I did remove the fan shroud - you will probably need the clearance, so you may as well remove it. Very easy - two clips at the top, remove them and slide the shroud up.
All in all took me about 1.5 hrs. Could easily do it in 30-45 mins second time around. Slowest part is the upper bolts, not much room to ratchet.
Here are some pics - the driver's side mount was completely TOAST! Leaking oil and the rubber was shredded.
I honestly can't believe the difference now! I swear that the engine is off at idle, it is ridiculously smooth. I think that since they fail slowly, you don't really notice it until they get bad. If you have a shudder or vibration at idle, check your mounts. Easy and inexpensive DIY and the results are worth it.
Big difference in height!
Oil's not well here!
Last edited by Benzboy210 : 05-30-2008 at 11:49 AM.
on the W210 Wagon/Estate the drivers side motor mount is a LOT harder as you have Two Metal lines going to the rear suspension that are in the way...As I have done a few..
on the W210 Wagon/Estate the drivers side motor mount is a LOT harder as you have Two Metal lines going to the rear suspension that are in the way...As I have done a few..
Mark, it is a sticky, that's how I found it!
It's under the DIY stickies that gregs210 posted, under 'Engine...'
Vehicle: 2001 SLK 320(96K Miles), 2002 E320 Special Edition(113K Miles)
Location: South Bay Area,L.A., CA
Posts: 1,175
Am I just imagining it, or does the new mounting has a plastic/rubber body, while the old one was metal?
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the mount has a metal "cup" outside and metal "Shaft" inside what is all vulcanized with the rubber. Even when the rubber deteriorate the shaft is not leaving the cup, therefore judging the condition of the rubber is so difficult.
What you see on the picture is metal cup painted black, what matches the rubber color.
Looks like Benzboy got different mounts than original, so the shape is slightly different.
the mount has a metal "cup" outside and metal "Shaft" inside what is all vulcanized with the rubber. Even when the rubber deteriorate the shaft is not leaving the cup, therefore judging the condition of the rubber is so difficult.
What you see on the picture is metal cup painted black, what matches the rubber color.
Looks like Benzboy got different mounts than original, so the shape is slightly different.
They are something other than OEM; you can tell by the bottom as well, smooth not ridged. It is weird that they vulcanized the whole outside, but maybe that will provide a bit more insulation and they will last longer.
The right (passenger) side on the E320 V6 can be done from the bottom with a flex-head ratchet coming in from the back to get the top bolt. Given the proximity to battery amperage at both the starter lug as well as the alternator lug, it's definitely indicated on that engine to disconnect the battery. The ten minutes to resych everything is cheap insurance. From my perspective with the driver's side it was harder to deal with the AC compressor than with the motor mount.
Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
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When you learn from your own mistakes, that's experience.
When you learn from the mistakes of others, that's wisdom.
When you fail to learn from any mistakes, that's government.
They are something other than OEM; you can tell by the bottom as well, smooth not ridged. It is weird that they vulcanized the whole outside, but maybe that will provide a bit more insulation and they will last longer.
The mounts are made in Germany by Corteco, part of the Freudenberg group. The metal part in the middle is covered by the rubber, not painted. As gregs210 said, not sure why - perhaps more insulation as mentioned? They are stamped with the same part number as the mounts I took off my car. They weren't cheap, $135 each here in Canada.
WOW 135 Canadians???? That's a fortune in US$
I complained spending like $80 at autohouseaz for mine..
Only because the mounts for ML (same engine) cost about $26
About 7 years ago mounts for W123 were nine bucks.
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