I cant believe you were wearing your Submariner while doing that job... hahaha... mine comes off the minute I walk in the door... and off any other time I might have a chance of dinging it.
Nice write up though!! Very thorough!!
__________________
2000 C230K -- Travertine Beige Metallic
2002 ML320 -- Alabaster White
2002 ML320 -- Brilliant Silver - Dad's
1991 300CE -- Blue Black Metallic -- 129,000 miles -- Sold
1981 300SD -- Classic White -- 190,000 miles -- Sold
1977 240D -- Over 300k miles (Wrecked) -- My 1st car
I cant believe you were wearing your Submariner while doing that job... hahaha... mine comes off the minute I walk in the door... and off any other time I might have a chance of dinging it.
Nice write up though!! Very thorough!!
LOL, do you then put it on a winder? These automatics need to be on the wrist.
Here are some more photos of new vs. old mounts. You were right AMG I am Shocked at the driveability difference. Like butter on ice!
I wanted to also include a picture of a tool that actually allowed me to get the job done. This is a picture of my new little friend. We will call him "Mr. Stubby." He weighs in at a few ounces but please notice the oversized "lollipop" head. That means a "fine" gear. I think it is 75 tooth. The overall length is 5" and it has a wobble head.
Honestly I do not know how AMG got the top bolt of with the normal size 3/8 drive. The handle was too long for me to get my paws in there and do anything with. I found Mr. Stubby at AutoZone for $12. The brand is Great Neck I believe.
There are two additional points I want to make:
1. Instead of disconnecting battery under the seat just pry the smooth panel off in the passenger foot well behind the battery and disconnect the Negative cable there. It is a 10mm bolt I believe.
2. Second, do not remove the idler pulley unless you absolutely have to. There should be a 17mm nut just below and to the left (maybe a 1/4 inch below). That is the lug that you torque on to push the idler back up in order to release the serpentine belt.
Other than the tool suggestion and the previous 2 points I did everything else in AMG's DIY and was amazed at the difference the new mounts make. All of a sudden the torque and acceleration has come back!
My mounts were bad! Next is the Sunroof repair and new shocks!
Drew
__________________ Who's John Galt.
"Timeo Danaos et dona ferentes" - Virgil, The Aeneid, Book 2
Well, in the closing days of Autohausaz's sale (through 10/31), I just ordered a pair. Sooner or later I know I'll need them, total is $100.62 including the free shipping. Can't beat that deal.
Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
__________________ If the only prayer you say in your life is thank you, that would suffice. Meister Eckhart
When you learn from your own mistakes, that's experience.
When you learn from the mistakes of others, that's wisdom.
When you fail to learn from any mistakes, that's government.
I'm glad you are as happy as I am, with our "new" rides.
Just a comment, I didn't remove the V-Belt Tensioner. I did the same as you, just "torqued" the 17mm fitting on the Tensioner. The E10 comment was regarding the "Old" style Tensioners, which took an E10 Torq fitting to "Torque" on.
Also, like I mentioned, a "Fine" ratchet is preferable. Unfortunately, mine is 1/2" drive, so it didn't fit. Nice "stubby" though!!
I'm glad you are as happy as I am, with our "new" rides.
Just a comment, I didn't remove the V-Belt Tensioner. I did the same as you, just "torqued" the 17mm fitting on the Tensioner. The E10 comment was regarding the "Old" style Tensioners, which took an E10 Torq fitting to "Torque" on.
Also, like I mentioned, a "Fine" ratchet is preferable. Unfortunately, mine is 1/2" drive, so it didn't fit. Nice "stubby" though!!
Cheers!
My mistake on the Pulley. I red it the write up and thought I had to remove the pulley. I have always had a problem with reading comprehension
The fine ratchet is definitely the answer. I had to actually use a lever on the handle of "Stubby" to make the initial turn.
Just did my E430 mounts today. What a difference!! Super easy job on the V8. Plenty of room to drop the mounts out without removing any belts or moving the AC components out of the way. All it took was an 8, 13, and 16mm socket set. I flat rated the battery disconnect by jamming a couple of rags over the alternator so I wouldn't short out the electrical connections if I slipped up with the ratchet. Its not the safest way to handle that problem but it works for me. Be warned however that the right thing to do is disconnect the battery. You could easily get shocked or short out your electronics if you don't.
Car idles so smooth now and job was super easy. If you need mounts don't hesitate to try this DIY. Its especially easy on the V8. Took me less then 1.5 hours including the time to jack up the car and dig out the tools.
Great minds think alike and all that. I just finished replacing the driver's side mount on my E430 today. The top bolt can be a pain as there is no room for leverage. Used a gear wrench, 16mm, and a 18" pry bar for leverage. Moved the wrench as close to the engine block as possible and used the pry bar to move it with good leverage. Only did the driver's side because it was definitely the one that failed. I could see the fluid all over the engine and mount. My early childhood on the farm taught me not to fix it if it wasn't broken so I'll wait on the passenger side mount. The engine was lifting about 4" with the bad mount so I figured I better do something or find my engine inside with me. Now when I pull up to a stop light my teeth don't chatter. The E430 eight cylinder is longer than the six so there is a lot more room forward to remove the mount. Thus no need to mess with the a/c compressor. All in all it was a very pleasant DIY and hats off to the forum and G-AMG for the helpful tips and photos.
...to G-AMG for another well-documented DIY. A few comments for those who, like me, have a 606 diesel in the W210. Disclaimer: Some of these comments may have been made earlier in this thread by others.
1. Although I did disconnect the negative cable behind the plastic panel (thanks to Drew -- I'd never known), I don't think it's necessary for the 606 engine. I wasn't near enough to the starter to worry. But I did it anyway. For the memory saver, I used a small 12-volt gel-cell wired to a cigar lighter plug. In my car, the key switch must be in position "1" or "2" for the lighter socket to be connected to the electrical system. Personally I'd rather have it 'live' all the time.
2. Access to the mounts on the diesel in-line 6 is great, as Len said earlier. No need to disconnect anything. I had a hard time with the upper bolts, though. For the left side I ended up snaking a long socket extension down through the intake manifold but the right side was too crowded by the exhaust. I finally ended up using an open-end wrench and a pry bar for leverage and a neighbor. A crow-foot wrench on a long 1/2 inch socket extension would work better, I think. (Good excuse to buy a set.) By the way, the bolt size on my car is 17mm, not 16mm as the picture was labeled.
3. The right-hand mount has a heat shield. It stays attached to the engine and doesn't get removed. The upper bolt will not come all the way out, again because of the exhaust. I raised it as high as it would go, then used a vice-grip pliers with padded jaws to hold the bolt up so I could extract the motor mount.
4. I used a small bottle jack with a heavy piece of plywood under the oil pan to lift the engine. (After the new mounts were in, I was surprised at how much higher the engine sat.)
5. I found that it was easier to start the top bolt in each new mount first, get "tab A" aligned with "slot B" and then start the bottom bolt, which at least can be seen and lined up from below.
All in all, a lot easier job than I thought.
Jeremy
__________________ Our all-diesel family
1985 300D Turbo California (W123), 230000 miles, on B100 since Apr '06
1987 300D Turbo (W124), 138000? miles, on B100 since Jan '07
1996 E300D (W210) 251000 miles, on B100 since Nov '07
1988? Satoh Beaver garden tractor, on B100 since 2004.
Some more Pics of Blown Mounts 
For the memory saver, I used a small 12-volt gel-cell wired to a cigar lighter plug. In my car, the key switch must be in position "1" or "2" for the lighter socket to be connected to the electrical system. Personally I'd rather have it 'live' all the time.
Linear Mode
