Location: West Bloomfield, Michigan (just north of Detroit)
Posts: 96
Changing the power steering fluid???
The fluid which is probably most neglected (on all cars) is the power steering fluid.
Many just ocassionaly check for level, perhaps add a little and that is it. Should one ever change it out completly? Some indy shops around here have a device that sucks out the old fluid, and feeds in new, so it always has fluid in it. Cost about $80.
Is there a plug somewhere to drain the old fluid? Does the MB require a special type of fluid (other then their own, of course)
I notice a narrow opening when I remove the filler cap. Seems it gets in the way.
Can this narrow ring (its white plastic with about a 3/4 opening) be removed for better service.
Mine is a 1998 e-320 with just under 100,000 miles. The power steering now is running fine.
I think the most neglected is the tire air. Never heard about anybody trying to replace it.
Can you imagine driving the snow on summer air?
On more serious note, the hydraulic fluid in my tractor is probably 25-30 years old. I am not in hurry to replace it.
i have replaced the steering fluid in my s320. theres even a filter there which i replaced, not sure if theres one on my e320, i just used a hand squeeze pump ($2.49) at wal-mart and suck out the old fluid and keep doing it a few times, the fluid gets clearer each time, and you feel the steering is a bit smoother from side to side and smoother rebound after a turn as well. some air might get suck into the system but after some full turns left/right it will be fine. should really look into changing the fluid past 100,000 miles.
I think the most neglected is the tire air. Never heard about anybody trying to replace it.
Can you imagine driving the snow on summer air?
On more serious note, the hydraulic fluid in my tractor is probably 25-30 years old. I am not in hurry to replace it.
I've also read about people disconnecting the return line from the steering rack to the reservoir, starting the car, and turning the wheel side to side until the fluid runs dry, or nearly dry. Aim the return line into a bucket to avoid making a mess. It is a two person job, one to start the car and turn the wheel, the other to watch for the fluid to stop flowing and yell "turn off the car". If I remember right, they put the front end up on jackstands (using the front tire jack points).
Would I try this? No, I'm too cautious. But again, if I remember right, a number of techs endorsed this procedure, providing you shut the engine off quickly to prevent the system running dry.
I've also read about people disconnecting the return line from the steering rack to the reservoir, starting the car, and turning the wheel side to side until the fluid runs dry, or nearly dry. Aim the return line into a bucket to avoid making a mess. It is a two person job, one to start the car and turn the wheel, the other to watch for the fluid to stop flowing and yell "turn off the car". If I remember right, they put the front end up on jackstands (using the front tire jack points).
Would I try this? No, I'm too cautious. But again, if I remember right, a number of techs endorsed this procedure, providing you shut the engine off quickly to prevent the system running dry.
I did this procedure on two Toyota's and one Lexus. NO, DO NOT start the car. You don't start the car to do this procedure. You will create a big mess if you start the car. Just raise the front two wheels and turn the steering wheel left to right. The fluid will come out from the return line. Never leave the reservoir empty, keep adding new fluid while the old fluid is coming out. Stop when new fluid is coming out.
I think the most neglected is the tire air. Never heard about anybody trying to replace it.
Can you imagine driving the snow on summer air?
On more serious note, the hydraulic fluid in my tractor is probably 25-30 years old. I am not in hurry to replace it.
Having had to replace the steering gear twice in my '87 300E at a total cost with labor of around $2400 I plan to have my ps fluid changed before long. First replacement was around 140k. Was told that these repairs could have been avoided...
__________________
'87 300E: sold after 11years @ 230k & still on the road somewhere in rural Tennessee.
'94 C220 with 93k totalled 10/06 by hit & run broadsiding monster truck: not a scratch or bruise for me
Last edited by johnamoss : 09-18-2007 at 02:45 AM.
My 83 300tdt to my knowledge had original PS pump when I sold it with about 270,000. I did have to replace the seals on the pump on 93 model. but that car had 330,000 at the time. MB unlike most cars have PS filter inside the reservoir.
Location: West Bloomfield, Michigan (just north of Detroit)
Posts: 96
Thanks for the fine imput from all.
Looks like the advice from cerritos (not starting engine method) is what I like to do. A quart of PS fluid is $8.50 from the stealership. Probably I'll need 2 quarts.
Is it still a two person job... or can one person do it?
I'm a little confused at where to disconnect. Jlomon says to "disconnect the return line from the steering rack to the reservoir then aim it the line in a container.
I agree that one should feed the new fluid as the old fluid leaks out.
Do I disconnect the line at the steering rack? Seems like it should be disconnected at the reservoir. So that way, I have a hose, to point to the container
If I can't do this myself (one person) I can go with the dilution method as described by mbnzZ230. I think the disconnect method will be better (once and done).
It will take a few times (3 or 4) to use the dilution method. In either case.... I will be doing something soon.
1. suck the resevior dry with a hand pump.
2. remove the return line from the resevior.
3. put return line into a coke bottle and place by exhaust manifold
4. start car, turn wheels slightly, and let it fill the coke bottle. Happens pretty quick, so you need a buddy to turn on and off.
5. Reconnect return line
6. fill up resevior.
7. start car, allow it to run for about 20 seconds, then shut it off. Do not turn wheel while the car is running. Recheck fluid level, and top off.
8. Start car again, and this time, turn the wheels a bit. Shut it off, and top off fluid.
9. Go for a short drive to warm the car up, and when you get back, top off fluid.
10. After a week or so, check fluid again to make sure its still within the accepted range.
Changing the power steering fluid??? 
Linear Mode
