HELP! lug bolt broken in wheel. How can I remove it? - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 08-09-2007, 09:37 PM
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HELP! lug bolt broken in wheel. How can I remove it?

Help. The head broke off the bolt & need help or advice on removing a broken bolt on rim on a 99 E320 4 matic.
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#2 (permalink) Old 08-09-2007, 09:48 PM
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We had somebody posting similar problem in the past. Broken bolt means the wheel fell-off and you can remove remaining piece with vise-grip.
The guy before had actually stripped head, what hold the wheel on.
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#3 (permalink) Old 08-09-2007, 09:49 PM
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can you remove the other lugs, then slide the wheel off....then file flats on the stud
to grip and remove? or.....is it broken with ball seat intact?

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#4 (permalink) Old 08-09-2007, 10:16 PM
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yes, its broken with the ball seat intact
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#5 (permalink) Old 08-09-2007, 10:52 PM
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ouch.....hmmm....having a bailey's and coffee and will cogitate a spell....

drill hole and then use stud extractor ¿


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#6 (permalink) Old 08-10-2007, 08:43 AM
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Don't think the bolt extractors are 100 lb-inch rated.
I am afraid you'll have to drill out the seat. Start with pilot hole and drill about 1/4" and than go lager till the head will come off. After taking the wheel off, the stud suppose to come off with hand or pliers.
Who torqued the bolts last time? Fire him.
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#7 (permalink) Old 08-10-2007, 10:49 AM
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Dear Lord, what a mess.

Do yours look like this?


If so that's all too common (hey, once is too much, right?), the ball seat "sticks" and the shaft breaks off above it.

You might see if you can find the proper length of the newer design that the ball seat is cast as part of the bolt head.

Snap-on has some pretty expensive "universal" sockets that have squarish little teeth, if you found one in the close size and pounded it on the end of the bolt with a sledge it might hold enough for you to get it out of there. Otherwise the drill method Kajtek1 mentioned is about it.

My sincerest sympathies.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy; its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery. (Winston Churchill)
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#8 (permalink) Old 08-10-2007, 11:16 AM
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Take your car to a local welder, and get a nut welded to the end of what's left. Immediately remove the bolt with a wrench and replace it with the spare that you brought with you.
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#9 (permalink) Old 08-10-2007, 01:26 PM
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I am a welder and believe me -welding a nut inside cast aluminum rim is not an option. I will not even mention what power surges can do to car electronisc.
Than I had an incident few months ago, when couple of my bolts got them-self overtorqued. I torqued them personally, so I know they have been about 100 in-lb (I think there is 80 recommended for E, but I never remember details and torque all the cars 100).
So the 2 bolts for some reason took over 200 to break loose. I had to use a socket with big lever to do so. Thin'wall socket had some play in the hole and when I applied big force the bolt head extension bend in the process. I think some people in similar situation might not have big wrench and playing with smaller wrenches might fatiqe the bolt in its weakest point and brake it off.
So my conclusion is, that the factory lug wrench is having the big collar on it for a reason. Use it on hard to loose bolts, or get a thick wall socket, that will prevent bolt bending. The best would be Cross-bar wrench.
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#10 (permalink) Old 08-10-2007, 01:33 PM
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I think you mean 100 ft-lbs.

I was thinking someone could get in there with a TIG torch to weld the nut into place. Perhaps not, but drilling that bolt out is going to be difficult.
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