I just cleaned the MAF and MOT with MAF cleaner this morning. After cleaning, I started the engine and hesitated for 2 to 3 seconds and then came back to normal idling again.
AFter a few minutes , it almost died again .
Is this normal to happen? I just sprayed on the metal on the maf.
On the MOT I sprayed on the left side only.
The right side mini hose was harder to take out so I did not pursue in pulling it out in fear it might break. In other words, I was not able to spray the cleaner on that side of the MOT.
Did I do just half of the job?
Thanks !
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Okay, folks, clearly I was thinking of all of you while I was on vacation.
Attached is the PDF version of the MAF R&R process.
The end of it also includes a section on cleaning the MAF sensor.
Send your checks to World Vision.
And as always, take care and enjoy the ride!
Greg
Greg - Great pictorial on accessing MAF.
I went through this some time back. One thing I learned, was that the Bosch MAFs have a cleaning cycle. During this cycle, the current is briefly increased to the units and this increases the temperature to something like 1000F. This is akin to a self cleaning oven and even those need some cleaning.
The reason for lack of success with the CRC MAF cleaner, may be that is intended for domestic or Japanese cars that may not have this cleaning cycle? The cleaner will remove oil and such deposits, but in the case of the Bosch units, the deposit is probably more like a hard scale caused by deposits baking on.
The on-board computer designers knew that the MAF will foul over time and included programming that allows it to adapt to a changing reading. When this adaptation gets out of range, we get the typical mixture codes - such as P0170/3. Dealers apparently have the ability to check the degree of "adaption" whereas all we can read with our OBD II meters, is the codes.
I did try cleaning my MAF with electrical contact cleaner (No MAF cleaner available at that time) as well as mechanically using very narrow strips of paper that could be pulled back & forth. The CE light would come back on after a few weeks (I reset codes after cleaning).
In the end, I used an ultrasonic cleaner. Used a little dish washing soap in water as well as Simple Green. This seemed to work. After about 6 months, CE light came back on - same codes. I could have cleaned again, but dealer price had dropped in Canada from over $600 to about $350. I bought new unit and installed it. No problems since, and that was in 2004. (Added: By the way, aqueous solutions not only work best, but are of course much safer in a Ultrasonic Cleaner. The MAF sensor is designed to handle the moist air that cannot be avoided when driving in the rain, or even in a carwash! Besides, just the tip need be immersed in the U-S tank.)
supplied,if CRC brand works when properly removing the insert and not touching it with any paper,it works.If the mafs thermistor has failed or is failing cleaning will not work and it is just time to r/r the unit.$167 at autohausaz.com.
If you have an autotap unit you can read the values and determine if cleaning is needed or if the unit is belly up.
ohlord
other causes can trigger a ltf code or codes so always look at fuel filter replacement interval and whether you use highly oxygenated fuel.Arco with 10% ethanol has a particularly high incience of intermittent p010 and p0173 codes that disappear when you change to another brand.
If you cleaned the purge valve and the crc was not evaporated completely it will cause a stumble ,same with cleaning the maf without removeing it from the maf body and letting it dry.Soap and water in a maf if not dried are a sure short circuit waiting to happen.It would be the same thing as cleaning your trans module with soap and water.Not the brightest idea.
Does anyone of you know what the MAF reading in the ODBII should be when idling the car? I cleaned my MAF due to low idle / rough idle which puts the engine at ~500rpm and I plugged the ODBII to see what the MAF reported while idling. the machine said 0.50 Lb/M is that normal or is this a sign I should just buy a new MAF? I also cleaned the air box and replace the air filter while doing the DIY. I figured it cannot hurt. PS. No codes reported by the ODBII ('02, E320 4matic sedan).
I did not take out the maf when I cleaned it because the clip holding it broke. I don't even know how I will take the old one out if the maf starts acting up. So I just sprayed it through the screen. Waited 10 full minutes to let it dry. Got scared for a bit thinking I screwed up.
Right now, the car is feeling better and drove it to Sacramento and averaging 30 mpg at 60 miles per hour. As I drive faster , lik 70 mph, mpg goes down to 24. CRC is really great. Thanks to all for your valued , helpfull infos.
As for mbgator, I am sorry I have no info on that.
was the cause of the hesitation,cleaner puddled up in the intake and really makes the engine buck while it burns off.Take a picture of what clip is broken and post it.Several wrecking yards have intake tubes for sale to replace broken clips etc,so you can clean it properly.
Really great job greg and thank you. I did what exactly you mentioned in the PDF file to clean the MAF of my MB E240 T, 2001.
I did that because I have problem with the ESP light when I accelerate hard, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about....
Yesterday, I removed the MAF and cleaned it as you described, it was easy as you said, but the problem still exist, and now, do I have to change the MAF or I missed something,,,,,, Do I have to change the Air Filter ???
Please advice..
Thank you in advance,,,,
Vehicle: 2001 SLK 320(96K Miles), 2002 E320 Special Edition(113K Miles)
Location: South Bay Area,L.A., CA
Posts: 1,175
Quote:
Originally Posted by senuoy
is there a picture for the 2005 c230 kompressor engine and cleaning process of the MAF, cause this engine looks surely different from mine
Search the R170 forum - it's basically the same engine and there's a stickey there.
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Great Job Greg 
2005 C230 Kompressor 
Linear Mode
