My experience: the torx screw has a little protruding index at the center. I bought a set of tool from eBay, but found out that they don't work with this type of torx screw and ended up having to go to Pepboys to buy another set.
Hey, cerritos. Hence the reference in the DIY to the "security" torx screw. That's what that dimple is in the center of the screw.
You don't need the special tip (you can use small vise-grips to grab the shoulder of the screw) but if you want it I'm told that Kragen/Checker/Shucks sells a set for like $5.
Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
__________________ If the only prayer you say in your life is thank you, that would suffice. Meister Eckhart
When you learn from your own mistakes, that's experience.
When you learn from the mistakes of others, that's wisdom.
When you fail to learn from any mistakes, that's government.
Cleaned the MAF sensor insert rather than replacing unit which my dealer quoted as approximately $500.00 for the part. The sensor is not sold separately by the dealer. Followed the procedures of those who preceded me by using CRC MAF cleaner. Started after taking negative off of battery and continuing with procedure. It has been three days and the CEL has disappeared. It appears to run better; although, this may only be "in my head". Ordered insert for $139 from the internet in case this does not work. Eventually, I will have to replace the insert.
Thanks for info that saved me hundreds.
Entire procedure took less than 20 minutes. The need to utilize vise grips on the torx seurity screw took the most time. Searched the area of New Brunswick, NJ for torx security bit and was not able to find same.
Usually this has to be done at about what milage. My 2001 e320 4 matic has 85000KM and the check engine light came on yesterday could this be the cause?
Usually this has to be done at about what milage. My 2001 e320 4 matic has 85000KM and the check engine light came on yesterday could this be the cause?
Hey, Hi Fi.
There are dozens of sensors in the car, any one of which may go out of range and trigger the CEL. The ONLY way to know is to head to an Autozone (some other parts stores do this as well) and have the codes read. Don't rely on their diagnosis, just get the codes and either google them, search them on this site, or post them and we'll help you get to the bottom of it.
Also, don't ever ignore a CEL and hope it will take care of itself. While that can happen, it's exceedingly rare, and what is more likely to happen (depending on what triggered the CEL of course) is that you may end up damaging another component.
There is a deals sticky that provides the link for an excellent little code reader, $40 online but the shipping to Canada may be prohibitive. Reads codes, erases them, comes with a disc full of diagnostic codes and their meanings. Very handy to have around.
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