I need help identifying the source of an oil leak on my 1998 E320 Wagon with 145,000 miles. The oil is leaking from the lower right (driver's side) front area of the engine somewhere above/behind the A/C compressor and below the hydraulic pump. The leak has been very slow for a couple of years but has increased in recent months to the point of pooling in the belly pan and depositing several drops on the garage floor every day. I have confirmed it is engine oil (Mobil 1 0W40). The oil runs down the A/C compressor and drips off of it and the transmission fluid hose that runs adjacent to the A/C compressor.
Several years ago I replaced the seals on the valve covers and oil collection covers and these areas are still clean and dry. My independent MB mechanic recently replaced the seal on the oil pan thinking that might be the source with no improvement. With the A/C compressor and hydraulic pump in the way it is impossible to see what is behind them that might be leaking. It does not appear to be the head gasket. With air flow off of the fan it could be leaking from somewhere near the base of the oil filter canister and blowing onto the A/C compressor.
Any suggestions would be appreciated since the Cleverpig is stumped.
A few months ago while in for service, my MB dealer mechanic noted a leak. Per the repair order he "replaced oil cooler seals and oil filter housing seal at base." There were three different seal rings replaced totalling $71.50, labor for 1.5 hrs totalling $142.50. I suspect this is what you have going on. My mileage at the time was 62k.
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I had a suggestion from another forum to replace the gasket on the oil test port cover. It is a 1" by 2" cover fastened to the front of the engine by two screws just below the oil filter housing and just above the serpentine belt tensioner. It has a screw plug in the middle of it (must be the test port) sealed by a crush washer. I purchased the seal and crush washer at my MB dealer today ($5.00)and just finished replacing the seal and cleaning everything up. The old seal had become quite hard. I removed the belt tensioner so I could clean and inspect behind it but found no problems there. It is all back together and clean as a whistle. I think that was my problem. I will inspect after a 150 mile trip tomorrow to hopefully confirm it is fixed.
By the way, I discovered a trick for replacing the serpentine belt or removing the tensioner. While using a long handled socket wrench on the large nut just below the pulley to rotate the tensioner (counterclockwise) to release the tension on the belt, insert a 1/8 - 3/16" allen wrench or drill bit (parallel to the pulley shaft) in the hole located on the bottom right edge of the tensioner mounting bracket. This holds the pulley in this position making it easy to remove and install the belt. The pulley must also be in this position to remove one of the screws attaching the tensioner assembly.
Replacing the oil test port cover gasket stopped my leak. I have driven 200 miles with no sign of any leakage. The repair was easy, quick and inexpensive. I recommend it for any E320 V6 with over 100k miles.
I had a suggestion from another forum to replace the gasket on the oil test port cover. It is a 1" by 2" cover fastened to the front of the engine by two screws just below the oil filter housing and just above the serpentine belt tensioner. It has a screw plug in the middle of it (must be the test port) sealed by a crush washer. I purchased the seal and crush washer at my MB dealer today ($5.00)and just finished replacing the seal and cleaning everything up. The old seal had become quite hard. I removed the belt tensioner so I could clean and inspect behind it but found no problems there. It is all back together and clean as a whistle. I think that was my problem. I will inspect after a 150 mile trip tomorrow to hopefully confirm it is fixed.
By the way, I discovered a trick for replacing the serpentine belt or removing the tensioner. While using a long handled socket wrench on the large nut just below the pulley to rotate the tensioner (counterclockwise) to release the tension on the belt, insert a 1/8 - 3/16" allen wrench or drill bit (parallel to the pulley shaft) in the hole located on the bottom right edge of the tensioner mounting bracket. This holds the pulley in this position making it easy to remove and install the belt. The pulley must also be in this position to remove one of the screws attaching the tensioner assembly.
Do you have the part # for the oil rings as the dealer told me that the oil filter housing is one piece or it can not be bought separately. Was the work done at the dealer?Thanks.
Do you have the part # for the oil rings as the dealer told me that the oil filter housing is one piece or it can not be bought separately. Was the work done at the dealer?Thanks.
Hey, 98. Other than johnamoss' recitation of a different issue as a possible suggestion, the focus of this thread is nothing to do with the oil filter housing. But your dealer is correct, the filter housing is one piece. If you need the four O-rings buy an OEM fleece filter kit and they come with it; many aftermarket suppliers just give you the filter, but not the O-rings.
Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
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don't think he is talking about the same o rings as you are Greg.You are talking about the ones on the oil filter shaft and he is talking about the ones that leak on the oil filter housing on cars that came equipped with the finned oil cooler housing.
Find a different parts guy or purchase a non cooler housing and install it.If you are running fss and mobil 1 you don't need the 98's cooler anyway.
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