This past weekend, I rolled all of my windows down in my '97 E420 Sport and then my right rear wouldn't go up, heard the "cracking glass" noise and then did a search here.
I pulled the door panel, and with the key on managed to push the up and down button enough to get the window in the closed position.
I contacted my local dealer to get a price quote and was told $112 plus rivets IF my car was manufactured after March of '97. According to Mercedes USA my car was manufactured Jan 13, 1997. The dealership now says that I can't replace the regulator without replacing the motor as well giving me a price of $280 for the motor.
Does anyone know if this is accurate? I know the motor is still working because it's pulling and pushing the broken regulator. I don't know why I can't drill the rivets and do the swap.
look at the DIY area this is a common issue which you can do it yourself, also I saw alot of regulators on ebay with out the motor which makes the price cheaper, good luck
Thanks. Yes, I read the DIY section. My question was in reference to my dealer stating the motor must also be replaced due to being manufactured before March of '97. I don't know why I can't just drill the rivets and install new ones. If I can't I don't want to waste the money ordering a new regulator or the time trying to put it in only not to work.
Just in case someone with an early 210 like yours isn't in here to give you a definitive response...
I'd suggest calling around, including a couple of indies. Autohaus sells the regulator "without motor" so I'm betting it simply has be re-riveted or refit to the existing motor, and the dealer simply doesn't want to drill out extra rivets, etc. necessary to do it that way. (Sort of like in the computer world, while it is possible to replace a fan in a power supply, no place you take your PC to would replace just the fan, but rather the entire power supply.)
If you're truly a car nut, there is a great DIY in the sticky for this forum, I would be really tempted to just yank it out and see for yourself. You can always shore up the window in the meanwhile instead of getting new rivets for the reinstall of the old one.
Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
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i did see a thread where a guy redesigned the rivets and he was giving out the specs, in my opinion, the dealer will not sell or do anything where they cant get a full profit, so I guess for them it would make sence to sell the entire unit, to me its the same issue with the MAF unit, you cant only by the sencor you have to by the entire unit, but in many cases its just the sencor.
Great info. Thanks guys. Yes, I did read the very detailed DIY. I am truly a car nut I figured the dealership was taking the easy way out, but wanted to verify. Thanks for the info. I'll order a regulator today. Life isn't too bad. I'm driving my SL while the E420 sits in the garage awaiting parts!
My 210 was built in '95, and the motor easily comes off of the regulator with the removal of a few screws. As far as I'm aware, the regulator is available separately.
Dont take this a sour grapes, my 92s has had three regulators replaced,no motors, my 01E has had two replaced no motors. So my 92 has the final one that makes noise, MB calls says it is the regulator (I knew that) but the motor is marginal $ 250 additional "but we wont charge labor", this is the same dealer that wanted to do plugs rotors and caps which they did a year ago.
The mechanics have figured out how to make more money since they get paid by the "operation".
One and a half hours under warranty, two and a half out of warranty...
Window Regulator Question 
I figured the dealership was taking the easy way out, but wanted to verify. Thanks for the info. I'll order a regulator today. Life isn't too bad. I'm driving my SL while the E420 sits in the garage awaiting parts!
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