Just a couple notes, the first one being funny.

1. It's insulating, not insulting! That "a" makes a difference.

2. The COMMAND radio in W210 does not lose settings. Had my battery disconnected for a week while retrofitting heated seats and all was there when I reconnected, no code required.

 

Well, it might be true that for W210 you don't need the radio code. The MB road assist guy did not reset anything after changing my battery.
Anyhow, thumbs up for Greg to picture docs the procedures

 

It is not true. The 1999 E320 (W210) does require the radio code to be re-entered if the battery is disconnected even for a few sec.

The 06 E320CDI radio may have an internal battery to save settings and that may be preventing it from loosing the login code. Not sure that car is still a W210 though and how secure is a radio that does require code when battery disconnected.

 

Four Star Post Greg!

 

Four Star Post Greg!

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: up as always!

 

great post greg. how much was the interstate battery? also are there any places that sell "varta" batteries? i have searched everywhere but can't find one.

 

great post greg. how much was the interstate battery? also are there any places that sell "varta" batteries? i have searched everywhere but can't find one.

I don't believe Varta automotive batteries are distributed in America at all.

Cheers.

 

Just a couple notes, the first one being funny.

1. It's insulating, not insulting! That "a" makes a difference.

2. The COMMAND radio in W210 does not lose settings. Had my battery disconnected for a week while retrofitting heated seats and all was there when I reconnected, no code required.

Are you insulting me again?!? Good eye, it's fixed. Considering I used the word 3 or 4 times, I'm happy I only missed one.

I'm glad MBZ thought to have some way to hold settings in the COMAND setup. The stock radio clears out if the battery is disconnected and then you have to re-enter the security code.

Anyway, thanks again and take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

 

Well, it might be true that for W210 you don't need the radio code. The MB road assist guy did not reset anything after changing my battery.
Anyhow, thumbs up for Greg to picture docs the procedures

Wow, I thought I'd read on here that they reset everything as part of the service charge. That seems kind of chintzy to me, now I'm even more glad I didn't have to call those guys.

As I noted to Chris, with my stock radio (non-COMAND) when I disconnected the battery to install my steering wheel I had to punch in the radio code and of course go through all of the other reset procedures (I love the windows one, what's up with that?).

Thanks for the feedback and and always, enjoy the ride,
Greg

 

What an excellent post!

I took it to a highly recommended MB specialist in the SFO Bay Area. This soft-spoken German gentleman told me:
a. "you can't jump start a Mercedes Benz. You need to charge the battery first", and
b. "after changing the battery, I'll need about 2 hours to reset all the electronics."

I walked out in a dazed. SOOOOO glad I found this post. Debunked just about EVERYTHING this guy told me.

It's unbelievable what people will try and steal from you just because one drives a MB!

 

Just lovely! Got my E320 in May and should check to see if the original battery is there, would be due for a swap since model year is 2002.

 

Hi Greg,

thanks for the great write-up. Many repair jobs require that the battery be disconnected. Is there some location under the hood for that? or the rear seat bench has to be removed (and re-inserted) every time?

 

Hi, tex.

There is a little access panel that is about 2" x 2" in front of the right rear passenger seat. Pop the cover and that is the disconnect for the negative connection, 10mm if I recall correctly. Easier and safer to do it from this location, and that's what it is designed for.


Keyhole, that's a great device, but the MBs in the US (at least) are designed so that our cigarette lighters lose connection when the key is switched off, so it's a wasted effort and expense.


Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

 

My car does require that the radio be recoded (non-COMMAND), but I still can't figure out why it needs absolutely nothing else. The owner's manual says that it does, but experience says otherwise. The windows and IR remote don't lose synchronization, and the seat memory is retained. One of these days, someone else will appear with the same "problem."

 

I don't know if it is available in the US, but here in the UK there is a device from Draper called a Computer Memory Saver that does the same job..

This can be powered either from a 9v dry cell, or hooked up to a stand-by car battery, and it is plugged in to the cigarette lighter socket while the battery is being changed.

But I still like Greg's DIY solution

 

On my '96, it's an 8mm nut requiring a 13mm wrench.

 

It probably is on mine as well, can't imagine that's something they would have changed mid-model run. I just couldn't remember off the top of my head.

In any event he's got a 96 as well, so 13 it is.

Thanks for the clarification...

 

Hi Greg,

it may sound trivial but I suppose it would also work for saving the settings if using an AC-DC converter with 12V output instead of the 9V-Monoblock too, right?

 

Hope this isn't a dumb question, gregs - but why can't I just turn the ignition switch to pos 1 ?

Hey, Keyhole. I just saw this; my apologies for not answering sooner. I don't know if it's in the WIS or what, but my default understanding is that if the battery is being disconnected, the key should be not only off but in your pocket. Just having it in the ignition energizes some circuits and with it in POS 1 lots of stuff is hot, that would likely overload a 9V battery plugged into the cigarette lighter, with all sorts of potentially ugly results ... the least of which is that it would drain flat and you'd end up resetting everything.

My default position when I post tips and DIYs on here is to post things that (1) work and (2) are generally safe (both from a personal as well as a car standpoint) if done as suggested. They may not necessarily be the easiest or shortest or fastest or (fill-in-the-blank), but they fit that general framework. If you want to go test the key-on-cigarette-lighter-device-plugged-in and post your results, let us know. Myself, I'm not excited about the possible downside.

it may sound trivial but I suppose it would also work for saving the settings if using an AC-DC converter with 12V output instead of the 9V-Monoblock too, right?

Hi, Tex. With a couple of caveats, I don't know any reason that shouldn't work. I know I wouldn't try an automatic battery charger, for example, as those look for load, resistance, etc. and vary output; I don't even want to guess what those might do when the battery was disconnected. Also, when the battery is disconnected there is an "open" loop in the circuitry; a 9V battery isn't enough to do any damage to anything (even if you let the positive cable hit the frame), depending on the current available a 12V output conceivably might. Again, I can't think of any specific reason it shouldn't work ... but refer to my default position above.

Gents, thanks for the thoughts and, as always,
Take care and enjoy the ride.
Greg

 

Hate to bump an old thread, as I'm probably missing something simple.

How do you use the latch? I've tried pushing on it and pulling on it. Looking at it, it even seems like it could slide to the side. I don't want to break anything, so any assistance is welcome.

I really want to get this e55 back on the road. It's been sitting in a nice climate controlled garage for two years now, but it deserves to see the road.

 

By "latch" do you mean the latch that holds the rear seat onto the car?

If so, reach in, find the lever, and pull straight up.

 

Thank you, that's exactly the latch I was posting about. I should have been more clear.

I will try pulling straight up towards the roof.

 

Thank you! That did the trick. I'm usually so much more mechanically inclined. Battery is out and ready for replacement.

 

Don't feel bad. I had to look at the owner's manual the first time because I couldn't figure it out either.

 

It was in the owner's manual?!? Now I feel like a real idiot. Yep, right there on page 297.

 

And if anyone is interested, the torque required to take off the battery hold down clamp is 20ft/lbs. I plan to tighten it back to the same spec.

 

:QUOTE=gregs210;2328708]It's been a while coming, but here is the post for how to change your battery yourself. With pictures, of course.

This includes a setup that will help you avoid having to reset everything, which was probably the more enjoyable part of this exercise for me. If you don't want to make it yourself, I'll sell you one for $15 including the 9V battery (a new alkaline, not the one from my smoke detector!).

Take care and -- as always -- enjoy the ride,
Greg[/QUOTE]

brilliant . thanks for the time to post this piece of info most helpful..::thumbsup::bowdown:

 

Why not just jump from another car battery?

Why not just use jumper cables from another car to hold the voltage while changing the battery? Of course, no key in the ignition switch while doing this. I have not tryed this but may someday when needed if there is not a known problem.

 

Why not just use jumper cables from another car to hold the voltage while changing the battery? Of course, no key in the ignition switch while doing this. I have not tryed this but may someday when needed if there is not a known problem.

You could. But that is a whole lot of amperage, not to mention the extra voltage already on tap when you hook up the new battery. I'd just be concerned about that. I'm not fond of sparks and arcs.

 

What happens if I need my radio code? I'm like the 2nd owner of my E320 but never received the radio code for my radio. How would I reset my radio if I don't have the code?