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Old 04-05-2007, 02:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jul 2006
Vehicle: E55 ///AMG
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A tip for those wanting to fix rust spots DIY

So we all know W210 cars have rust issues. When's the last time you thought you got all of the rust off by sanding & grinding, only to find a few months later the fresh paint touchup bubbling again?

I dug up my old chemistry books and wiki, and put my brain cells rather than my arm muscle cells to work. Phosphoric acid is your friend! I diluted some strong phosphoric acid with distilled water down to about 40% concentration and tested it on old rusting steel parts. BOOM about 30 seconds later the rust was gone and all was left was grey phosphate.

Be careful though b/c acids can be dangerous. and immediately following acid treatment, rinse with water, dry, wipe with alcohol to remove traces of moisture, and hit it w/ your fav. primer and basecoat.
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Old 04-05-2007, 06:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Is the acid the same stuff sold as "rust converter"?
I've been using that stuff for years on my boat trailer and old motorhome.
Rust on Mercedes??? Naaahh.
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Old 04-05-2007, 06:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Kajtek1
Rust on Mercedes??? Naaahh.
welll he got some rust on his 55..
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Old 04-06-2007, 07:18 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Date registered: Aug 2002
Vehicle: Mercedes W210 E320 wagon
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ProV1x, I used POR15 Starter kit to fix rust issues on my car. Primer and touchup paint I bought in PaintScratch Their paint color was much perfectly. Clear coat was made by Wurth.

Last edited by Bansai : 04-06-2007 at 07:24 AM.
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Old 05-22-2007, 11:53 AM   #5 (permalink)
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This is my experience. I have tried to fix it one week ago.
Materials:
POR15 Starter kit - Welcome - POR-15 Inc.
Primer Dupli-Color
Base Coat - PaintScratch Touch-Up Paint (rs), Spray Cans, Spray Paint, Paint Pens, Car Paint, Automotive Paint
Top Clear Coat - Dupli-Color
Rubbing compound - PaintScratch Touch-Up Paint (rs), Spray Cans, Spray Paint, Paint Pens, Car Paint, Automotive Paint
Sandpaper - 3M (320, 800, 1500 and 2000 grits)
Polisher - Craftsman.


After “Metal Ready”. Rust has been transferred to something black (I guess it is carbon base cover)


Sealed with POR15




When I removed back door paned then I found some technical “bug”. MB uses stainless still bolts with aluminum nuts. As a fact I had to stubbed some pairs)
[img]http://mysite.verizon.net/igor_aleshin/images/RustFix/RustyBolt.jpg[img]

Base coat applied

Polished with rubber compound




Let see how long it will be in good shape

Last edited by Bansai : 05-22-2007 at 11:58 AM.
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Old 05-22-2007, 11:58 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Bansai, great job, I was wondering, did you do the paint job out side, or did you do it in a shop and if out side how was the drying time, polish etc....I am just wondering about the paint, and clear coat application.
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Old 05-22-2007, 12:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks!
I did everything myself… on parking lot… Right weather is biggest issue for such of job. It is why I did it almost two months.

Temperature was always 70F+, humidity was less then 45% - this is very important.

Drying time:

Cleaned with POR15 Marine clean - 20 mins,
Prepared with POR15 Metal Ready - 20 mins.

I applied 3 layers POR15 - waited 24 hours for each layer .
Lightly sanded with sandpaper#320 before applying primer

3 layers Primer - 20 mins between layers. I used quick drying spray.
First Base coat was applied on next day.

3 layers based coat - 20 mins between layers.
After 1 hour applied first top clear coat layer.
20..30 mins between layers.
I didn’t touch painted area about 3 days.
After that sanded with water (sandpaper #1500 + #2000) – removed overspray issues and finally polished with rubbing compound.
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Old 05-22-2007, 12:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Great job bansai!! very well done.

do tell us if the rust comes back. in my experience if there's a tiny rust spec remaining, it'll come back. even after treating with that POR stuff. that's why bodyshops prefer sandblasting over chemical treatments. goodluck!
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Old 05-22-2007, 12:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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btw, i'm amazed that you got such great 'blending' results using the spray can. did you strip the old paint before painting? that looks amazing.
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Old 05-22-2007, 12:35 PM   #10 (permalink)
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After that sanded with water (sandpaper #1500 + #2000) – removed overspray issues and finally polished with rubbing compound. good job, I am actualy going to wet sand my head lights #1000 then 2000. I plan on wet sanding my entire car in a couple of weeks, but I wanted to touch up some parts in the future and the job you did proves one doesnt always need to go for the entire paint job. But if it looks like I am do for an entire paint job I may go that rout. but your method looks like it will be a great experience. I am gonna refer to this thread In a couple of weeks for paint touch up. Thank you.
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