Excellent write-up you cheap bastard. I like that pic with half the car on the side walk.
You're very creative. I didn't even go through the entire thing but felt compelled to congratulate you man. I have a DIY write-up on the subject from another forum member but I think your format is quite a bit easier to follow. Thanks for the detail about the MB spec printed on the oil label. I never looked at this - just believed any 0W40 would work. Do all 0W40 oils have the MB spec printed on the label?
Anyway, good stuff. You just saved a whole bunch of us a lot of headache. Now, I'll go bookmark your stuff and read the rest of it.
__________________
1989 300ZXT - mine
A pair of running shoes
A 18Hp lawn mower
2 Mountain Bikes
350Z - will be mine when @ 300+HP and 3-Car Garage
Thanks for all the kind words; it's nice to be appreciated. And -- though I know you're kidding, Darkmann -- I'm not cheap, I have jackstands but you'd have to raise the whole left side of the car evenly based upon the drainplug location which is a whole lot of extra time and effort. Besides, to my knowledge no car has ever fallen off a curb, except maybe during an earthquake. :)
Re: the oil spec, there's a few threads on this issue. In Mobil1 there is only one viscosity that meets MB requirements, and that is the 0W-40. If you don't want to run Mobil1 (or would prefer a different viscosity) then Amsoil, Quaker State, Pennzoil and a couple of others make synthetics that meet the 229.5 MB spec, search the threads and you'll find them. The Mobil1 0W-40 meets all MB requirements, including temperature range, so whether you live in Siberia or Death Valley you can run it all the time. Plus I can find it locally for a reasonable price, so that's just what I buy all the time.
Last note, for those of you with pre-1998 cars you don't have to worry about synthetics, it's just required for the newer engines. Thus, I'm not sure about the MBZ spec for yours. That said, if you want to run synthetic for the additional protection and decreased friction it offers, I'd recommend the heavier-duty fleece oil filter instead of the paper one and then you'd want to pick the oil based upon your climate, which should be in your owner's manual. However, if you've never run synthetic and have at least 75K on the clock, I would be very careful about switching; most stories I've heard are that seals leak if you go over to sythetic.
Storm, you came highly regarded as a new admin and I was glad to see you get it, so your comments too are particularly appreciated.
This is a great post and will save me/us a lot of $$. I hope it's as easy as you make it to be -- no doubts, though. Where do you take the used oil afterward?
This is a great post and will save me/us a lot of $$. I hope it's as easy as you make it to be -- no doubts, though. Where do you take the used oil afterward?
It really is that easy, and if you follow the "suck" theory as opposed to draining, it's even easier. I'm still on the fence but lean more towards draining. The trickiest part is the oil filter and all the o-rings, but if you pay attention (and have the correct filter wrench!) you should be fine. Disposal of the used oil is easy where I live because there are laws that require focus stores to accept it for recycling. Moreover some local communities with recycling have specific days you can leave it out. Several stores do it voluntarily in other states, AutoZone and Checker/Shucks/Kragen (same store, different name depending on where in the US you are) very commonly accept it; call a few to find out. Otherwise contact your waste-disposal company to find out where to deposit it for recycling.
As the new guy on the block, I am very impressed and very grateful for your effort and input to help us newbies to DIY our oil changes. I did change my own oil on the 02 E430 back in June 2005, only after extensive interrogation of the MB dealer's parts guys, who were actually very helpful, even down to drain plug location, and crush washer replacement.
I have an even easier method.
Go to a boating supply and purchase a "Topsider".
It's an electric powered device to "suck" out the oil via a "straw." Flip the switch, and come back 15 min later, et voila!
No mess, and no having to get under the car.
Also, I've found I actually get out MORE oil than draining.
Give it a go!
Patrick
gregs210 Thanks for taking the time to create this thread. It's members like you who have helped this forum get to where it is now. Excellent write up and pics.
Your efforts are very much appreciated by all of us.[8D]
Hi, Folks. I just posted a DIY oil change, with pictures and narrative, in the galleries. This one was by the "drain" method, so for those of you who'd rather suck it out, go for it. It's pretty basic, so if you're a newbie with basic skills there is enough there for you to get comfortable with it.
There are several shots in the gallery, work left to right and then top to bottom.
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