how difficult is diy brake pad/rotor RR on 97 E420? (fronts) - Benzworld.org

ProV1x · 12-20-2006, 08:49 AM

wondering how difficult the job is, and what tools I need? also, i bought the car with 105k miles and I have 108k now. Should I replace the rotors too?

i'm sticking with OEM parts, but drivewire dot com lists several choices on the pads, PBR, Jurid, Genuine, etc etc? rotors = brembo, balo, zimmerman, ..??? do i also need brake pad sensors and pins?

sokoloff · 12-20-2006, 10:08 AM

Change the rotors when they are near the minimum unless they are warped. Specs are stamped into the rotor. Brakes are a pretty easy job on the 210. Yes, you have sensors to replace. Why are you replacing the pads? Are they at the minimum or are you just looking for something to do?

Len
'99 E300TD 99,000 miles

ProV1x · 12-20-2006, 10:19 AM

thanks for a quick reply Len. I'm broke so i think i'll just do the front pads for now. Any preference on the OEM brand?

oh, i got the "brake lining wear" warning indicator last night. but it's funny, it was on for 2 seconds, and then it went off and hasnt come back yet???

**Musikmann** · 12-20-2006, 10:33 AM

This is a little off-topic, but I just had this done on my Camry. There was an obvious pulsation from the front brakes, and I would sometimes hear (what sounded to me like) metal scraping against metal.

The shop foreman drove the car, and said the only solution was new front pads and rotors. He also said nothing was dangerous, and I had plenty of pad and rotor-life left. It was bothering me, so I had them order the Toyota OEM parts, and do the replacement.

Out the door, the job was about $300. For what this is worth, the brakes are behaving much better now.

Good luck with your Mercedes!

**Musikmann** · 12-20-2006, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sokoloff

Why are you replacing the pads? Are they at the minimum or are you just looking for something to do?

I've not encountered this with my Mercedes, but I thought you always replaced the pads if you were replacing rotors? I have heard of new pads without rotors, but not the other way around.

Don't brake pads "form" to their individual rotors after they are on there for a while? Anyway, it just seems like a good idea to me.

ProV1x · 12-20-2006, 11:13 AM

some mobile tech dude i found can change the pads for $60, i have the parts.. hmm. for the first time i might have him do 1 side, i'll do the other to make sure i dont mess anything up, and then from then on i can do it solo?

lkchris · 12-20-2006, 11:50 AM

If your pad warning light has been on, it means the sensor has contacted the rotor, I think. Need new sensors, then.

ProV1x · 12-20-2006, 12:25 PM

quick q: is the c-clamp necessary to install the new pads?

gregs210 · 12-20-2006, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ProV1x

quick q: is the c-clamp necessary to install the new pads?

Hey, ProV.

Check the pictorial DIY pdf I did on 210 brakes, it's in the DIY/FAQ sticky in this thread. Virtually identical to your car.

Re: the specific question, no, you don't "need" a C-clamp, but it makes it a whole lot easier to compress the pistons. You can also do it with a screwdriver between the rotor and pad face, but it's not as easy and you risk scratching your rotor.

If you've done brakes before on pretty much any modern car you won't find anything surprising in your 210. Hardest part of doing mine was getting the old rotors off, they were just about frozen to the hubs with rust/corrosion.

Take care and enjoy stopping the ride,
Greg