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Old 12-12-2006, 09:58 AM   #1 (permalink)
BenzWorld Junior Member
 
Date registered: Dec 2006
Posts: 13
Heater Core trauma

Folks,
I have anti-freeze leaking into my 96 e320 and loosing a little coolant over a day or two. My suspect is the heater core because the floor mat on the passenger side is wet. This looks like great trauma to pull the dash and replace. Local Mercedes shop quoted $2k. Heater core looks to be only $150 or so. My question is: How much of a pain in the rear is it to pull the dash and replace this core? Do I need a written guide to do it? If so, where can I get one? One mechanis recommended I change the AC coil while the dash was pulled, any thoughts? Thanks so much for the help?

Mark
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Old 12-17-2006, 04:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Date registered: Sep 2005
Vehicle: 98 e320
Location: ballston spa ny
Posts: 10
ouch. i've done it on a BMW and it was a brutal job, although thoroughly doable by a DIYer with a basic set of tools. i can't imagine that it is a lot different here - getting to it is the biggest issue. i marked everything as i took it off. the vents were a big issue as there were a lot of connectors. total job took about 12-13 hours, but if i had to do it again, it would probably be 6-7 as i was really flying blind.

i haven't seen any instructions for MB, but please post if you find something. i don't have the problem, but it's always good to have something handy in case the need arises!

good luck!
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Old 12-18-2006, 05:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Date registered: Sep 2005
Posts: 26
I just replaced my evaporator core. Got all the parts from autohausarizona.com. I think they sell a behr heater core. Anyway, the job is very labor intensive. It took me three days working 8-10 hours a day. The entire dash has to come out....everything...airbags, steering wheel, gauges...Ironically, the only special tools you will need is a set of radio removal keys, a set of torx tools and another set of hands to remove and install the dash and climate control box. I printed out the entire procedure from startekinfo.com for $18.00. The dealer wanted $3800 for the job....I did it for $420.
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Old 12-18-2006, 05:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Date registered: Sep 2005
Posts: 26
Oh yea, Forgot to mention that 99% of all "Heater Core" leaks are just two small o-rings that go to the core/pipe connection....of course located in the heater box. Also, Since you have to disconnect the ac anyway, I would replace the evaporator...$298.00
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Old 12-18-2006, 06:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Date registered: Dec 2006
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Thanks so much for the reply polo35. That's what I was afraid of...a bloody three day job A local MB dealer quoted me between $1700 and $2000 which sounds like a better deal than you got. Never the less I hate to part with any. I do everything myself but just didn't feel like it right hear at Christmas time. I was hoping for a miricle Anyway, thanks for the info on starteinfo.com. I was not familure with them. Sounds like it would be wise to change the evap since its such a pain in the butt to get the dash out. Some German must have been sipping too much of something to come up with that design.

Regards,
Mark
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Old 12-18-2006, 06:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Date registered: Dec 2006
Posts: 13
One more thing polo35, any chance that those o-rings might seal up with some stop-leak sort of stuff?
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Old 12-18-2006, 06:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Date registered: Sep 2005
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I had an afterthought....Being intimately familiar with the climate control system...I am fairly sure that if your core was leaking, it would just leak out of the drains under the car along with condensation from ac.......So either you do have a leak in the core and your drain blocked/leaking.....or the better option is that you have a hose leak at the firewall where one of the three coolant hoses connects to the heat exchanger pipes. Check these....they have one piece spring clamps and are relatively easy to get to.
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Old 12-18-2006, 07:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Date registered: Sep 2005
Posts: 26
I am not a big fan of miracle in a bottle cures, but in your case, since the leak is so small it might just work.....However, I would check those hoses. There are 2 on the pass side and one on the drivers. If it is leaking at the pass side. your carpet would be getting wet at the firewall rather than the side of the trans. tunnel. Open the hood and look under the plastic water collector just under the windshield...you will see 2 small coolant hoses right at the firewall.
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Old 12-19-2006, 06:00 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Date registered: Dec 2006
Posts: 13
Thanks for the reply. The other day when I noticed this mess, there was water dripping under the car around mid transmission area AND the carpet on the passenger side was a little wet. The wet area was away from the center console of the car towards the door about 5 inches. I will look closer today. I have never seen the heater box so I can't reason through the symptons. If water was leaking from the core are you saying that it SHOULD be caught in the heater box and run out a hose under the car instead of inside the car? If the hoses outside the firewall were leaking could that get inside the car or down the drain hose under the car? Also, I went to Startek, paid my $18 but I am having a heck of a time finding the dash removal procedures. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks again for the assistance polo35.

Mark
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Old 12-19-2006, 02:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Date registered: Sep 2005
Posts: 26
My pleasure to help....I feel your pain. First of all, yes, if there was a leak where the coolant hose connects to the heat exchange pipe it would leak both outside and inside of the firewall, weeping down and soaking the carpets as well as leaving a puddle on the ground outside car. However, if the heater itself was leaking, it should be collected in the same drain that is shared with the evaporator as they are right next to each other. That is why I believe you have a leak at the hose connection. The hose connection is fairly easy to acess....you have to remove the cowls-water collector under windshield as well as the wiper assy...just screws on the cowls and 10mm nuts on the wiper. The cowls snap-unsnap together. You will see 2 hoses on the pass. side and 1 on the drivers. As far as Startek it is tricky. First you must have dsl or cable...dialup will just freeze-up. I don't remember exactly how I found it, but as I recall you type in mod. and year and then type in key words like evaporator and heat exchanger. Once you do find the procedure. you have to look at each one carefully because it may have several other links for each procedure. I printed about 55 pages. I think you can call Startek for help......dont forget that the $18 is for 24hrs. only. Hope this all helps.
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