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Photo Diy-spark Plug Change Part 3

28K views 27 replies 16 participants last post by  cerritos 
#1 ·
He're The Last Installment.
 

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#3 ·
Kent,

Thank you, I DO stand corrected. Bosch claims the Nickel plating is sufficient for anti-seize properties. In reading thru their site, though, I couldn't find anything
recommending AGAINST it's use.

I guess old habits are hard to break!
 
#8 ·
G-AMG thanks for great post. It is very helpful. Yesterday I replaced mine. You are right about taking off the MAS and filter housing. This is not big deal and really gives a lot of room.
I would like to add one more thing. Disconnecting ignition coils and taking them off giving more room and good access to all spark plugs.
 
#9 ·
One more perfect post! Thanks G-AMG! Now I definately need more tools...

I'd like to buy you some beer for the work done. It's a pitty that Minnesota is so far from Texas. Anyway, whenever you're going to be in north states - let me know, I'll buy you beer.

Thanks

Nick
 
#11 · (Edited)
I'm having problem to insert the boot onto the plug. As far as I can see, there is a wire to lock it in place once it's inserted. This wire is also preventing it to go onto the plug. I did use the di-electric grease but it did not make it easier.

There must be an easier way to do this.

Can you expert provide some help? Thanks.

The wrench is good tool to pop the boot off, but I'm not sure that I can use it to install the boot.
 
#12 ·
It's not very intuitive. The Lisle tool is a bit easier when putting them back on, but once you get the hang of the wrench it's fine.

Hard to explain, but you place the open end of the wrench on the end of the boot with the wire coming between the wrench faces. Then you press on the wrench, and if you need a bit more leverage, you hold the wrench a bit higher against the engine, then pull the box end towards you so that it levers pressure onto the boot. You'll struggle with a few at first but then you'll sense a bit better just what you need to do. Just make sure the wrench is on the end of the boot, not lower down like when you're popping it off.

And of course be sure you don't let the wrench slip sideways or down and damage the wire. ;)

Hope that helps.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Flip the

dog leg of the open end 17mm special boot tool over. Opposite the way you pried the boot off.
Use one hand as the fulcrum point instead of the engine head.Apply pressure to the metal boot collar with the other hand.
One of these days maybe I will do a video of the whole spark plug changing procedure and save myself time splaining it via phone calls;)
 
#16 ·
Thanks for the help, G-AMG. I appreciate the help from all of you.

I removed 6 plugs from the passenger side. So far, I have two boots installed on the plug. I'll try to do the others this coming weekend.

I think I know how it works. Still, even using the tool, it is still very difficult to get it on. I think what I need is a longer tool that will give me more leverage, but don't know whether it's available or not. The one that I have is about 1 foot long.
 
#17 ·
spark plug wire lettering??

After reading all of the threads on spark plug removal/installation (thank you very much GAMG for a terrific write up) I was unable to find the answer to a particular question. I recently had a cylinder misfire on #6 and I traced it back to the wires. When I cleaned them up I noticed that they had a letter on them. The front one was G and the rear was K. My question is, beside length, are there any differences in the wires? I had bought 2 new wires but they are both G wires. Can I use them with out causing any harm? Thanks in advance for any help and guidance.
 
#20 ·
After reading all of the threads on spark plug removal/installation (thank you very much GAMG for a terrific write up) I was unable to find the answer to a particular question. I recently had a cylinder misfire on #6 and I traced it back to the wires. When I cleaned them up I noticed that they had a letter on them. The front one was G and the rear was K. My question is, beside length, are there any differences in the wires? I had bought 2 new wires but they are both G wires. Can I use them with out causing any harm? Thanks in advance for any help and guidance.
Ohlord has already pointed out the A to a and B to b for each cylinder, but note that there are only FOUR longer wires on the engine (whether V6 or V8) and those four wires go on the first and last plug on each bank of cylinders (1, 3, 4, 6 on the M112, 1, 4, 5, 8 on the M113). The remaining wires are all the shorter ones.
 
#18 ·
Yes you can use

them.
No difference. Always just be sure the top wire on the coil goes to the front plug on that coils cylinder and the lower coil wire goes to the rear plug on its cylinder.
 
#21 ·
Thanks greg for your input. I had changed all the plugs a few months ago so I was pretty familiar with the way the coils and wires were attatched. I was a little paranoid when I did the job so I took some members advice and only did one plug/wire at a time so my margin for error was minimal.
 
#23 · (Edited)
In anticipating difficulties, I've decided to let the dealership do the cat replacement and also the engine mount (due to the top bolt). I thought spark plugs are relatively easy and I've done many spark plugs replacement on Japanese cars.

Even before I started this project, I practiced on one plug and thought I can do it. Oh boy, is this hard.

I still have four boots not installed. I'm wondering would it be easier if I replace the spark wire/boot with a new one. Will that wire spring on the boot head more flexible?

How is the other end of the ignition cable connected to the coil? Is it a snap on? twist? Should I use a flat screw driver to pop it off? I'd guess that it's as tight as the end that connect on the plug. Maybe it also has a spring wire to lock it on. :(
 
#27 ·
I still have four boots not installed. I'm wondering would it be easier if I replace the spark wire/boot with a new one. Will that wire spring on the boot head more flexible?(
In spite of what the other posters said, I've never felt/heard a click when replacing the cables. I just pushed it in as much as I could with the tool reversed, and then attempted to pull the cable out by hand. If it doesn't come out easily, then it's fitted properly. Also, it goes back much easier then coming out - a lot easier.
On the other hand, I may be - as my wife tells me at times - just an insensitive jerk and thus do not feel/hear anything subtle. :D
 
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