I am hoping someone can give me some feed back. My car has been to the dealers at least 6 times in the past few months for various things including typical stuff like oil change. For the past few weeks I have a problem with the car firing up as quickly as it should. It will crank right up but sometimes take several long seconds to fully ignite. It runs fine. Sometimes it will crank right up. Seems to be a little worse once the car is warm and if I start it again. Dealer said no signs of smart key going bad and no error codes. Car just celebrated 77k miles on it. All the regular services have been done and car is very well maintained. Dearler could not replicate problem. Everything seemed to check out well. They thought it could be a crank position sensor going bad. I read that if this is the case you won't get any error codes for some reason. I don't want to get stranded somewhere so I am taking it back this week and having them keep it for a few days to hopefully replicate problem. Love my car but I am sick of the continous problems in the last few months. I hope to get a new car after the holidays as the money being put in this is ridiculous! How reliable is this car at 77k miles? I bought this one pre-owned from a lease because I heard about all the quality issues with newer ones. Service A is coming up in 3500 miles. It was all tuned when I bought it. My other MB's (new) in the past have been great cars and one is still on the road in great physical shape with 250k miles on it. What should I do? HELP! from a very frustrated MB girl!
Could be the CPS and they do not throw a code. However usually with a CPS failure the car stops and will not restart till it cools down. If you are getting a new car after the holidays I would not worry about it and just drive it. There are many other things that could cause this annoyance.
Crank shaft sensor and camshaft position sensors are common issues for the symptoms you describe but as Sosh wrote it could be a number of other things as well. I would ask your dealer to remove the two sensors listed and have them test them ask for the results. The numbers for the CPS should be as noted in this thread. http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w164...?highlight=600
Sam
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Free maintenance ? buy a Bimmer......
Crank shaft sensor and camshaft position sensors are common issues for the symptoms you describe but as Sosh wrote it could be a number of other things as well. I would ask your dealer to remove the two sensors listed and have them test them ask for the results. The numbers for the CPS should be as noted in this thread. http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w164...?highlight=600
Sam
It will cost almost as much to remove/replace and test these as a new part costs. Tests are not that accurate. If thats the route you wish to go just replace it
Well this morning she cranked up and was fine. I drove around running errands and it cranked up like it is suposed to. Ok, this might be a dumb question for all you MB experts, but what is the difference between crank position sensor and camshaft? Does the infrared key send either one a signal when starting? My car (knock on wood) runs great and performance thus far isn't affected. Why won't the crank shaft position sensor show error codes? How is one to determine if it doesn't show error codes? I think I might just have them replace the crank position sensor. How much will this cost? Dealer said around $400 not including tax and labor. At first I thought it could be the new fuel filter I had put on while replacing the other cat converter that went bad, but dealer said they checked and it was fine. Maybe this is just the start of crank position sensor going bad so that is why it will still start just not fully engage as quickly as it should at times?. Thanks for the feed back. Hard being female, and single to deal with car issues so I try to learn as much as I can by joining boards like this. Thanks fellows!
I paid $150 for new CPS and I believe my stealership has the biggest markups in US.
Maybe some will give more technical answer, but CPS is some kind of magnets switch. Beats me why it cost so much, but contacts going bad are very hard to diagnose, till they are completely dead.
Therefore replacing CPS with problems is very common advise. Not that it had to be a correct one, like I experienced.
CPS replacement is about 1 HR job, even with removing inner fender, so independent shouldn't charge arm for it.
just the leg.
It will cost almost as much to remove/replace and test these as a new part costs. Tests are not that accurate. If thats the route you wish to go just replace it
I see your point, but sometimes the piece of mind is worth it to known for sure..........I guess you have to find a honset technicnan who will test the sensor if tested correctly its 100% accurate.
I would not preffer to be stuck on the side of the road or in a parking lot....while cussing someone out who just replaced some parts on my vehicle that I hoped were bad but were not............
Sam
If you read this forum, you'll get the message that those cars are too complicated for simple diagnosis. Sometimes you have several things misaligned, or temporary failing with computer patching weak links and trying to make the engine perform even with bad sensor.
So to some degree fixing that complicated machinery has to be try by error job.
Even having unnecessary CPS replacement on my ML55 record, I don't regret it. Now I have (tested) spare one and knowledge how to do it.
CPS on Ford Powerstrokes are very common issues. I bought used one on ebay and replaced it just "for sport". Fact is, that it was much easier on pickup.
?...................... I have read allot on this forum-irrelevant........
And understand the vehicles are hard to diagnose............I am a Mercedes Master Technician and I didn’t get here by throwing darts at cars. All I’m saying is that the original poster is concerned w/ the well being of herself and her vehicle and if her dealership could not verify the concern she had and she is further concerned things need to be tested for intermittent failure and it will cost money......
Enjoy
things need to be tested for intermittent failure and it will cost money......
Enjoy
Sam
Intermittent failure will cost intermittent troubleshooting, but for steady flow on money.
Since you troubleshoot for a living, the advice sounds like job security to me.
Me-being practical would rather spend less money on new parts, than more on old troubleshooter
How reliable is this car at 77k miles? I bought this one pre-owned from a lease because I heard about all the quality issues with newer ones. Service A is coming up in 3500 miles. It was all tuned when I bought it. My other MB's (new) in the past have been great cars and one is still on the road in great physical shape with 250k miles on it. What should I do? HELP! from a very frustrated MB girl! 
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