I thought I'd give everyone some insight on changing your oil in your W210. I have a '97 E420 and this may be only applicable to 96-97 W210 vehicles.
You must first unscrew (4) screws to eliminate the plastic cover under the car (2 front, 2 back). Under the cover you will find the oil box and the screw to empty the oil. (Remember these cars use 7-8+ Quarts of oil so make sure you have a larger pan/bucket under the car to hold this much oil)(mine was a 5 quart pan and it overflowed, I learned my leason quick)
Next, Is finding where the heck the filter is... I was searching for the canaster oil filter under the car and found it popping up towards the air box/air filter, I realized I could not remove it from under the car. I popped the hood and removed the air box and filter (using a phillips head screw driver). Sticking out was the oil filter resevoir. Using a socket set I removed the 1 long screw, then removed the lid , then removed the old canaster filter. I installed my new filter and put the new seals around the lid which came with my filter. I added around 8 Quarts of oil and I was set to go.
I live in humid Florida and the dealer recommeded since I have 116k on my car and since I had not been using synthetic, to stick with conventional oil. He recommended Castrol or Valvoline 20w50 for the humidity. Using synthetic or Semi now would possibly lead to more common oil leaks. He said 1998+ W210's semi and synthetic would possibly be the ticket. Well there ya go, I thought I'd post this because everyone needs some insight sometimes.
I do all my own oil/filter changes on both Benzes and haven't been under the
car in years. I use an oil evacuation/suction device called a LiquiVac which
suctions it out the dipstick tube. Similar devices are also available through
Griot's Garage and under other labels (Mityvac I think). Not only is it far
less hassle but it actually gets out more oil than draining through the
oil pan plug due to the lip at the plug in the bottom of the pan.
getting under the car for an oil change on a benz is far too much hassle. Use a suction method through the dipstick tube...
I use the Jabsco marine drill pump from west marine but others rave about the topsider...
I've got my oil changes down to a science akin to a Nascar pit crew. My record is 20 minutes. Can't do that if you need to jack it up and remove that nasty skid plate!!
Ummm...if you'd searched the diy thread in this forum you'd have found a post with pictures for a DIY oil change by the drain method...
__________________ If the only prayer you say in your life is thank you, that would suffice. Meister Eckhart
When you learn from your own mistakes, that's experience.
When you learn from the mistakes of others, that's wisdom.
When you fail to learn from any mistakes, that's government.
Is suction removing impurities which accumulate at the bottom of the oil pan as well as the flow of the oil draining at the bottom?
Hey, George.
That's an ongoing topic of discussion. Apparently MBZ designs it's newer generation cars to cooperate with the suction method. Me, I've always been a drainer, I like to let it run out and drip for a while.
The caveat here, though, is that the drain plug is in the middle of the side of the oil pan, so if you raise the front of the car, you'll actually cause a decent quantity of oil (and sludge, particulates, etc.) to pool in the back of the pan. Thus, if you're on flat level ground you're okay, but if you need to lift it to get under you have to lift the driver's side of the car (if not all the car), not just the front.
Thanks Greg, I've always been a drainer as well, but now I'm going to be a sucker :-) just bought the Mityvac to see how it works. I also bought 0W-40 mobil 1. I'm not convinced that's really required vs the common and cheaper Mobil 10W30 (specially if someone is changing oil more often), but it gives a peace of mind if that's what the MB says...
DIY Oil Change -- E420 
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