Sorry wrong year, the car is 2003 CLK500. Did anyone know what is the exact or range quantity of the engine oil for this car, I have filled 7 qrt of new oil and engine oil level showed OK in the cluster. this car has NO dipstick and it didn't mentioned in the manual either.
Sorry wrong year, the car is 2003 CLK500. Did anyone know what is the exact or range quantity of the engine oil for this car, I have filled 7 qrt of new oil and engine oil level showed OK in the cluster. this car has NO dipstick and it didn't mentioned in the manual either.
Ben
Hi, Ben. Add one more, the capacity on the W209 5L is 8 quarts.
(It actually is in the manual around page 410, fuels/coolants/lubricants...)
Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
__________________ If we ever forget that we are one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under. Ronald Reagan
When you learn from your own mistakes, that's experience.
When you learn from the mistakes of others, that's wisdom.
When you fail to learn from any mistakes, that's government.
I thought I'd give everyone some insight on changing your oil in your W210. I have a '97 E420 and this may be only applicable to 96-97 W210 vehicles.
You must first unscrew (4) screws to eliminate the plastic cover under the car (2 front, 2 back). Under the cover you will find the oil box and the screw to empty the oil. (Remember these cars use 7-8+ Quarts of oil so make sure you have a larger pan/bucket under the car to hold this much oil)(mine was a 5 quart pan and it overflowed, I learned my leason quick)
Next, Is finding where the heck the filter is... I was searching for the canaster oil filter under the car and found it popping up towards the air box/air filter, I realized I could not remove it from under the car. I popped the hood and removed the air box and filter (using a phillips head screw driver). Sticking out was the oil filter resevoir. Using a socket set I removed the 1 long screw, then removed the lid , then removed the old canaster filter. I installed my new filter and put the new seals around the lid which came with my filter. I added around 8 Quarts of oil and I was set to go.
I live in humid Florida and the dealer recommeded since I have 116k on my car and since I had not been using synthetic, to stick with conventional oil. He recommended Castrol or Valvoline 20w50 for the humidity. Using synthetic or Semi now would possibly lead to more common oil leaks. He said 1998+ W210's semi and synthetic would possibly be the ticket. Well there ya go, I thought I'd post this because everyone needs some insight sometimes.
Hey, Ty.
My apologies, I just realized this hadn't been added to the DIY sticky. Pretty basic (as is most of this stuff!) but you've added some valuable points that are unique to the V8. In any event, it's now in there and thanks for the contribution.
thanks for this contribution. the difference in changing the oil yourself on a 420 vs a 320 is quite significant, hence i really appreciate this DIY description!!!
i did it yesterday for the first time myself, and it was extremely helpful (how else could one possible know the filter is under the air filter unit). I drained it now so i could also replace the gasket, but in the future i may look into the suction method. seems like a bit less hassle, yet again.. depends if you have a bridge and whether you prefer doing it "old school" or not.
I also did not understand how one could refill the oil through the filter opening(as shown in the 320 sticky "big hole to put the oil into"). With me it filled up immediately and almost spilled all over the place... hence i did it through the opening on the engine (cam shaft section). much easier also if you don't want to have oil all over the alternator, hehe. The third difference with the 320DIY description (in my view, an advantage), as that on the 420 Filter unit we don't need the special adapter to unscrew. just a 13mm wrench does the trick, quite easy!
Now, once i figured everythign out i guess i can easily do it in 30-45mins next time (suction). My sister works in a hospital and she had some surgeon gloves laying around, i can highly recommend this to keep your hand clean!
the best part: I shopped smart for my Mobil1 0-40W oil, hence got it half the price the stealer would charge me... including their hourly wage of 140$ (at 1.5FX), and can say easily state the final cost to me was less than 30% of what they would have charged me at the MB garage. that and a job well done, with a smooth ride, is pure satisfaction!!!
happy posting
Thanks Tybenzo and mini-mod - You gave me a start on my 1997 E420 sport oil change. I took pictures and want to put them up since the M119 V-8 is way different than the other DIY's. I'm a drainer, so off comes the lower engine cover - 4 sheet metal screws
E12 star socket needed.
Pulling off the TOP engine cover is interesting - the ears at the rear were broken off, as was the rubber post they once held onto. Other 420's I've seen have had these covers destroyed by careless mechanics ( Jiffy Lube?.) They are probably made of Unobtainium so I am careful. Undo the Air Cleaner latches, lift the rear up and off the Fuel Injection Throat / Venturi (MAF ? ), then pull the front forward off the two horizontal posts securing the cover down. Cover the Throat with a clean rag if you do not want to lose the engine to a small screw or nut (as I once did while adjusting a carburetor on my Mustang) . Now lift the whole thing off and remove the air box base of the air cleaner assembly by pulling it up off rubber grommets on the frame. The air intake tube is a tight fit in the grill and will come off with the air box, it is a PIA to replace later. If this part comes loose it will hit the fan blades, making another costly mess.
The drain plug is a 13mm hex, as is the long bolt on the oil filter canister. Both of these 13's were way too tight on my car. The oil drains nicely all over the ground unless you get a really BIG oil pan. I got a 10 qt. one and really was pleased that it was nearly full - indicating that my car does not use any oil between a 6,000 mile change. The canister is totally different than the later motors, it is hidden under the right side cylinder head. A long bolt holds a metal lid with two O-rings onto an insert type filter that is pressed onto a center pipe. I found it easiest to put the filter in the lid first, then the bolt guided it onto the right spot, with no heavy force to bring it flush - just start the screw and twist it down by hand. Tighten with a socket to about 15 ft-lbs. Now put back the drain plug screw with the new copper washer packed in with the two new O-rings in the M-B oil filter box ( this may be meant for the long bolt at the lid ?.) 8 and 1/2 quarts of 10W-30 or the oil of your choice and you put the top of the beast back together, check for leaks and lastly put back the lower engine cover which has two neato air ducts that slip into place when you lift the cover in place and put back the 4 screws in to finish the job.
This job is pretty time consuming, but not a scary as on my Alfa Spider on which I have to pull the MAF to get at the oil filter.
Hopefully I can load the pictures now - which was my original goal on this post - Ciao!
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
