I purchased a 1999 E320 with 44M miles on it. It now has 70M and the break liner wear warning has gone off. I have changed pads in both American and foreign cars before, so I am not new to this. However, my previous cars were not MBs, so I would prefer not to expand the problem.
I am looking for direction on the following:
1. I am going to change the front pads and sensors. Any input on ceramic pads versus OE would be appreciated.
2. I have felt one front rotor and it is still smooth. Assuming the other is in the same condition, I do not intend on changing the rotors.
3. I would like to flush the brake lines and change fluid. I have not bled brake lines before, so my concerns may be academic. From what I have found on the internet, it says the car should be level, starting with the line farthest from the MC. In order to do this, it seems the car would need to be lifted and placed on 4 floor stands to keep it level. The Motive bleeder looks to be a good tool for this job. So, now I need to weigh the cost of having a shop do it versus my doing it with the cost of required tools (floor jacks, bleeder, and any other item that may be necessary). Any recommendation on this would be appreciated.
4. I would like to change interior filters as well. Removal of the glove box looks simple enough. Any recommendations or words of caution are welcome.
5. Lastly, it appears that some parts are special order, so I may as well order everything through the internet. If someone has a recommendation on which supplier would be best to use, I would appreciate it.
I purchased a 1999 E320 with 44M miles on it. It now has 70M and the break liner wear warning has gone off. I have changed pads in both American and foreign cars before, so I am not new to this. However, my previous cars were not MBs, so I would prefer not to expand the problem.
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Thanks.
Hi, EK.
Congrats on the purchase and lots of apparently trouble-free miles.
Although you didn't ask, if you haven't already done so I'm going to suggest that you get your ATF fluid and filter changed as soon as possible.
And with no further ado...
1. I am going to change the front pads and sensors. Any input on ceramic pads versus OE would be appreciated.
2. I have felt one front rotor and it is still smooth. Assuming the other is in the same condition, I do not intend on changing the rotors.
If you are satisfied with the braking performance then there is no reason to install other than OEM pads. Ceramic pads will wear rotors faster than stock, but you have less brake dust. After lots of reading, etc. I decided on the Axxis Deluxe Plus pads. Barely more expensive than stock, slightly better performance, and much reduced brake dust. Re: Rotors, smoothness is only one small part of replacement. Exceeeding minimum thickness (through wear or turning) and warping are the two most common reasons for rotor replacement. To be sure, buy a micrometer and measure a few points on the rotor, the minimum thickness spec is stamped in the perimeter of the rotor. Better to be safe than sorry, rotors are cheap enough.
5. Lastly, it appears that some parts are special order, so I may as well order everything through the internet. If someone has a recommendation on which supplier would be best to use, I would appreciate it.
If you read through the DIY you'll see there are no ugly surprises waiting to bite you, but I'd tend to agree with you that you're not going to get everything in one visit to a local store, unless it's one that specializes in German marques, and you'll pay for that convenience. Typically such outfits are staffed by like-minded enthusiasts, so their knowledge, pointers and assistance may be worth the premium just to keep them in business. Otherwise you're going to the dealer or on-line.
3. I would like to flush the brake lines and change fluid. I have not bled brake lines before, so my concerns may be academic. From what I have found on the internet, it says the car should be level, starting with the line farthest from the MC. In order to do this, it seems the car would need to be lifted and placed on 4 floor stands to keep it level. The Motive bleeder looks to be a good tool for this job. So, now I need to weigh the cost of having a shop do it versus my doing it with the cost of required tools (floor jacks, bleeder, and any other item that may be necessary). Any recommendation on this would be appreciated.
I've not bled my car's brakes, I had the indy do it when I otherwise took it in as the upcharge wasn't too bad and it was a complete flush, not just bleeding them. A pressure flush is different from bleeding in any event. From my perspective, considering the cost of the fluid, what to do with the old stuff, the mess to be made and the value of my time -- and the unlikely completeness of the flush -- it just wasn't worth it to me. That said, if the stuff you read on the internet was generic I'm not sure how applicable it would be to your MBZ; the last car I did with ABS all you did was crack the screw, attach the hose and pump the pedal slowly, in the end the ABS pump does the work and didn't suck in air. Perhaps some of the other site gurus would have more guidance for you here.
4. I would like to change interior filters as well. Removal of the glove box looks simple enough. Any recommendations or words of caution are welcome.
If you use that all-important-and-handy search function you'll find a few posts on this. I keep meaning to do mine, should I ever get around to it I'll take a couple of pics. From my understanding the only tough one is the charcoal beasty (and that moreso in the context of paying for it...)
Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
__________________ When you learn from your own mistakes, that's experience.
When you learn from the mistakes of others, that's wisdom.
When you fail to learn from any mistakes, that's government.
greg
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