DIY Brakes, with pictures...

[loubapache]

hmankin:

Your W208 brakes should be very similar (both front and rear) to the ones on W210. The Mercedes instruction even puts them together for both models (plus a few others).

[Digmenow]

Having read your assurances that the job would be relatively easy and having already changed the rear pads on the 107, I printed out the PDF and changed all four pad sets on the '99 today. I probably should have installed new front rotors but since I was trying ceramic brakes from the local imported auto parts establishment, I thought I would wait and see how effective everything was. If these don't cut down on the dust (SWMBO puts nearly 500 miles a week on the car and I just couldn't keep up) or end up damaging the rotors due to excessive heat, I'll just chalk it up to a learning experience and move onto the next big thing in brakes.

My brother in law (who always goes me one better) just informed me that he's giving up on all manner of ceramics and installed Brembo slotted, cross drilled rotors and Hawk HPS pads on his spouse's Taurus because he's tired of the rotor warpage that seems to dog that model.


I guess we'll see.

Anyhow, 3.5 hours including dragging all the tools out, a short break for hydration (90+ and sunny today), and a shower to clean up and finish off the job.

Thanks for the inspiration, Gregsy!

BTW, my right rear had a wear sensor (who knew?) but the left rear didn't. Weird. I reused that one but the fronts were new. Also, I didn't have a torx bit big enough for the front caliper bolts so an H7 hex head bit worked fine.

[labrati]

Is there any way to tell, other than lifting the rear and removing the rims, if your vehicle has the single or double pin pads?

thanks in advance

[loubapache]

Originally Posted by labrati

Is there any way to tell, other than lifting the rear and removing the rims, if your vehicle has the single or double pin pads?

thanks in advance

Welcome to the forum, labrati.

Depending on the type of rim you have and its position, you may be able to see through one of the holes in the rim. Or you can also try to use a mirror.

[rgdeja]

I am planning on using the kroil oil from hxxp://www.kanolabs.com/ to loosen the rotors. I currently have ABS/ASR warning light on and my rotors are worn out.

I ordered all front and rear rotors and pads from hxxp://www.autohausaz.com

1 1704100115 Flex Disc Kit; Front /Rear
2 2104212212 Brake Disc/Brake Rotor; Front Left/Right; Vented
2 2104230612 Brake Disc/Brake Rotor; Rear Left/Right; Solid 290x10mm
1 MDB1871 Brake Pad Set; Front; OE Compound
1 MDB1991 Brake Pad Set; Rear with 1 Pin Retainer; OE Compound

Mine is a 1998 E320 Sedan 210.065

(yeah, I am doing the flex disks also, the rear disk has cracks)

About a year ago, I replaced pads and tried to bleed the brakes with one man bleed kit from harbor frieght and it did not fully bleed. Any ideas on easy bleading?

[rgdeja]

I finally replaced all my four rotors and pads. Total time was 3.5hrs from wheel removal to wheel install. Next time I think I can do it under 2hrs total

To remove rotors you must need this. This is a 8" Three-Jaw puller

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Caution: When you mount it on the rotor and start tightening the screw, all off a sudden you will hear a loud noise and the rotor my fly into you as it is popping out. So watch out.

Also, I used the C-Clamp for the rear breaks as suggested in the DIY threads.

But for the front pads I used the following Disc Brake Spreader:

DP & Company Wholesale Disc Brake Pad Spreader

Also dont forget wheel chocks and jack stands, I used these:

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

As for the hydraulic jack:

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

I didnt like two things about this jack but it gets the job done.
1. The black bleeder screw need to be tightened with a screw driver not hand tighten
2. When you bleed it to drop the car, the control is not smooth

Few other notes for the first timers from another first timer:


1. start with rear as they are easy.
2. After mounting the rear rotor, use the c-clamp to compress the both pistons all the way back on the caliper
3. mount the rear caliper then drop the pads from the back
4. On the rear right the retaining clip can be pushed in by a big claw pipe wrench (the plier kind)
5. On the rear left it was easy enough to push it in with hand
6. The front calipers use the break spreader to push all the way back - there is not much room to mount the caliper with pads inside.
7. Dont forget to attach the retaining clip before you mount the wheel!
8. I almost forgot, leave the parking foot brake off (meaning the brake is not applied) otherwise it is holding the rotor cap.
9. As for the depth of the foot brake travel, my wife didnt like the 2-3 clicks, so it is 5 clicks now, she gets the feeling that she applied the parking brake properly!
10. Practice flipping that gear wheel before you mount the rotor to get an idea which way it is turning.
11. You can have the rotor mounted (but not the hex screw that holds the rotor) - practice the foot brake distance travel

My brake fluid looks ok, but I might flush it for the experience

Thanks for a great DIY

[loubapache]

Thanks rgdeja for taking the time to provide these extra info.

I have been using the HF three jaw puller. I had the 6" one for a long time but it was barely large enough for the front rotors (rear rotors are smaller so the 6" is big enough). Then I bought the 8" as well.

I call it the noiseless way to remove rotors. Mines are as frozen as any other rotors because of the snow and road salt.

[Kobus]

I also did the front rotors on my SLK yesterday (same brake setup) and I had the opposite experience from your postings. My front rotors literally fell off when I removed the set screw. So if you are in SoCal or a non-rusting state, before removing the rotor set screw, turn in one or two of the wheel nuts to catch the rotor. Those rotors are heavy (about 20 lbs) and you don't want them dropping on your toes.
Some small tips not in Greg's writeup:
1) Make sure to push the clips on the inner front pad fully into the piston cavity before attempting to refit the caliper. Maybe an obvious one, but on many cars you put the pads on the caliper carrier and then slide the caliper over the pads.
2) Also ensure that the caliper slide bolts are pushed out before you attempt to put the caliper back. They slide in on their own and this will prevent the caliper from seating fully.