Thanks for the response. I will address the ATF and filter asap. I would like to reduce the amount of brake dust on my wheels; therefore, I am considering the ceramic pads. From what I have read, ceramic produces a lesser amount of dust. I will let you know how I fare.
Your previous message stated that you had someone else flush your brake lines when you brought it to the shop. Does this mean that you did not flush your brake fluid when you changed brake pads?
I have previously read that it is possible that debris may be forced back into the ABS system causing damage when returning the pistons to a position that would allow for the new pads. Therefore, it was recommended that the lines be flushed when changing pads.
I would like to change the pads without pressure flushing at this time; and, have it done when I do bring it to the shop for other work when required.
Lastly, I have seen sensors ranging from $0.99 to $10.95. Any recommendation or input would be appreciated. I am not overly concerned about the cost, but more in the quality of the pieces.
Thanks for the response. I will address the ATF and filter asap. I would like to reduce the amount of brake dust on my wheels; therefore, I am considering the ceramic pads. From what I have read, ceramic produces a lesser amount of dust. I will let you know how I fare.
Your previous message stated that you had someone else flush your brake lines when you brought it to the shop. Does this mean that you did not flush your brake fluid when you changed brake pads?
I have previously read that it is possible that debris may be forced back into the ABS system causing damage when returning the pistons to a position that would allow for the new pads. Therefore, it was recommended that the lines be flushed when changing pads.
I would like to change the pads without pressure flushing at this time; and, have it done when I do bring it to the shop for other work when required.
Lastly, I have seen sensors ranging from $0.99 to $10.95. Any recommendation or input would be appreciated. I am not overly concerned about the cost, but more in the quality of the pieces.
Thanks,
Skip
Hey, Skip.
Did you read my DIY? You should *never* push dirty brake fluid up the line, page 6 of it covers that. And flush or not, if you do it with the fronts you're likely to press garbage back up through the ABS system, and flushing at that point is like suturing up the artery after the victim has bled out. The key is to NOT force fluid back up the line, period. The DIY explains a common way around that.
MBZ generally recommends a brake fluid flush every two years. That's what I had done, it had nothing at all to do with changing the pads.
Re: pads, don't just buy something that says "ceramic". Do lots of homework and find ones that meet your specifications. There are lots that will reduce dust and also chew up your rotors. Or that will only last 10,000 (or fewer) miles. Personally I can vouch for the Axxis Deluxe Plus, beyond that you'll have to hit the books, so to speak.
On the wear sensors, the ones I bought were pretty cheap (I can't remember where or what I bought) and they seemed to work fine. It's not a critical part (unlike, say, a brake hose!) so do what makes the most sense to you.
Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
__________________ If the only prayer you say in your life is thank you, that would suffice. Meister Eckhart
When you learn from your own mistakes, that's experience.
When you learn from the mistakes of others, that's wisdom.
When you fail to learn from any mistakes, that's government.
I did read your DIY, but I thought by pushing in the pistons it would force debris up the line even with opening the bleed screw. So, while pushing the piston back in, the fluid will exit the bleed screw and not go back up the line. ???
As I mentioned previously, my questions may be academic, so I appreciate the patience and guidance. My objective is to do what I can by way of working on the car without expanding the problem - like forcing debris into the ABS.
I did read your DIY, but I thought by pushing in the pistons it would force debris up the line even with opening the bleed screw. So, while pushing the piston back in, the fluid will exit the bleed screw and not go back up the line. ???
As I mentioned previously, my questions may be academic, so I appreciate the patience and guidance. My objective is to do what I can by way of working on the car without expanding the problem - like forcing debris into the ABS.
Sorry if I seemed a little harsh, I've had a giant suck week at work -- and it's only Wednesday.
In any event, if that's not clear in the DIY that's the whole point of opening the bleeder screw. if the bleed screw is open it should come out there, sometimes you may have to have it looser, which is why you want it on top and the hose on it. That process worked like a champ on my MB and it has done so on other cars I've worked on. The real key is that if you're changing rotors, then you want to crack the bleeder screw (not really loosen it yet, but crack it loose) while the caliper is still bolted to the car, and then re-tighten it when the caliper is re-mounted. Of course, if you're not changing rotors, that is academic. In any event, it's just basic fluid physics/dynamics, fluid will flow out an open hole before it will force a column of fluid through tiny orifices.
Axxis makes lots and lots of pad compounds/varieties, the last ones I had were their ultimates which are great pads, but very short life and more wear on the rotors. As I say, I think for normal driving their deluxe plus are probably the best compromise. Again, I did my homework in pricing as well, and Import Replacement Parts had the best price on the deluxe plus, it was literally half of some other places on the web. Mine were $86 including shipping for front and rear. However, if you want one of their other varieties another company may have the best price.
Not harsh at all - sorry about the week. Unfortunately, I understand way too well. Too bad you can't trade your day job for something more enjoyable. But that's not reality I guess.
Thanks for the website. The pads are about 25% less than brakewarehouse.
Hopefully, I will have time tomorrow to check the rotors. After I determine whether or not to change rotors, I will place my order and wait for my goods to arrive.
I am located in Gretna, LA which is part of the Greater New Orleans area. I received my rotors and supplies from Autohaus yesterday and expect to get my pads on Friday. Looks like I will have some fun this weekend. I will update then.
Yesterday morning, I saw this big puddle of oil/fluid under by car and got concerned. My investigation led me to take the front drive side wheel off and I saw a drip coming out of the shock/brake area. Could it be brake fluid leaking? What else can drip out of there?
My car is a 2002 W210 4Matic and it has only 33000 miles on it.
Yesterday morning, I saw this big puddle of oil/fluid under by car and got concerned. My investigation led me to take the front drive side wheel off and I saw a drip coming out of the shock/brake area. Could it be brake fluid leaking? What else can drip out of there?
My car is a 2002 W210 4Matic and it has only 33000 miles on it.
Please help!!
Paul
hmm. can u post some pics? also check the brake fluid reservoir tank in the engine bay, if you see a big puddle then the reservoir must be running dry.
and do NOT drive the car, you might not be able to brake!
__________________
Gone but not forgotten:
2003 Honda S2000
1999 BMW 540i sport
1995 BMW M3
I received my pads, rotors, and other parts during the week. I ordered the Brembo/Zimmerman rotors and AutohausAZ sent Ate instead. I called to inquire and they said it should not make a difference. After doing the obligatory research, if there is a difference, I do not believe that I will notice it.
The one item I left out of my order was MB brake fluid. I do not know what type of fluid is in the car now, so I am not sure what to replace the lost fluid with. If someone has a suggestion or recommendation I would appreciate it. I would like to knock this job out tomorrow morning, so a store purchase is what I am looking for.
Oh yeah, my car vibrates a good bit while idling at stops. After reading other posts, I think it may be the motor mounts. I will check tomorrow during the brake job.
P.S. I bought the package containing a Craftsman 2 1/4 ton floor jack and jack stands for $30 at Sears to assist with the brake job. 3 1/2 ton stands were $20 at Harbor Freight, but I figured I did not need the extra muscle from the stands and opted for the jack for an extra $10.
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