A/C compressor clutch died!

[notorious ALE]

Anyone replace the compressor or the clutch lately - how much did it run you?
My dealer wants $3700.
My indy mechanic thinks we can get away with replacing the clutch itself for about $200 if that's the only problem. Seems the 98 E430 would require a new compressor, dryer, updated pressure line and expansion valve if I want to fix it "right", assuming the clutch can't be replaced.
Even ordering the parts wholesale I am still looking at $1000+! OUCH. I was warned to avoid remanufactured compressors, etc. by my indy who fixes Bentleys for a living.
If I buy Benz parts they are warrantied, therefore they are recommended over others? Is this that big of a deal? I live in a HOT climate. I tried cleaning the little duovalves that sometimes get stuck open, but no dice.
The AC was super cold since I bought the car. Then it was wrecked and the AC just suddenly died the other day. Mercedes bodyshop says the wreck was not a factor. I did notice an electrical smell just before the AC stopped cooling.
My AC diagnostics are as follows:
1-109
2-130
3-112
4-112
5-111
6-195
7-10
8-130

Fault codes show sun sensor Eb1234 and compressor clutch Eb1419 to be bad.

I wish there was some indication that this was going to happen..............I should never have sold that M5!!!!!

[Peter Guenther]

There are a lot of things that will keep the clutch from engaging, since there are safeties, low pressure , high pressure, etc. There is a proceedure of shorting out sensors, or just putting DC on it to see if it engages. If it does not engage it has to be the clutch, btw MB sells remnufactured compressors, that include a warranty.

[benzofour30]

If you need a compressor i have used one that works bough it from Potomack German but never needed one mine just needed to me filled with freon paid $300 for it will sell for $250.

[Avantgarde 1998]

I changed my a/c kompressor a week ago.It costed me 950 euro aprox...I turned on the engine one morning and i thought one of my pistons was dead.The noice was really scary!then i realised that the noice was coming every time i engaged the a/c unit and no cooling inside the car.Now my pocket is lighter but my a/c is ''cool''.Really difficult to travel in the middle of the summer with the leather seats on fire!

[Dave1965]

Originally Posted by notorious ALE

Anyone replace the compressor or the clutch lately - how much did it run you?
My dealer wants $3700.
My indy mechanic thinks we can get away with replacing the clutch itself for about $200 if that's the only problem. Seems the 98 E430 would require a new compressor, dryer, updated pressure line and expansion valve if I want to fix it "right", assuming the clutch can't be replaced.
Even ordering the parts wholesale I am still looking at $1000+! OUCH. I was warned to avoid remanufactured compressors, etc. by my indy who fixes Bentleys for a living.
If I buy Benz parts they are warrantied, therefore they are recommended over others? Is this that big of a deal? I live in a HOT climate. I tried cleaning the little duovalves that sometimes get stuck open, but no dice.
The AC was super cold since I bought the car. Then it was wrecked and the AC just suddenly died the other day. Mercedes bodyshop says the wreck was not a factor. I did notice an electrical smell just before the AC stopped cooling.
My AC diagnostics are as follows:
1-109
2-130
3-112
4-112
5-111
6-195
7-10
8-130

Fault codes show sun sensor Eb1234 and compressor clutch Eb1419 to be bad.

I wish there was some indication that this was going to happen..............I should never have sold that M5!!!!!

I've got EXACTLY the same problem as you do in my 1999 E300DT. I checked the windings of the clutch and they are open. The compressor doesn't appear to be seized.

[notorious ALE]

Car is in the bodyshop still. When it is liberated then we worry about the AC. Stay tuned true believers!

[Dave1965]

Originally Posted by notorious ALE

Car is in the bodyshop still. When it is liberated then we worry about the AC. Stay tuned true believers!

Due to time constraints and lack of a third vehicle I wasn't able to take any pictures. The procedure however, is pretty straightforward:

To replace the clutch on a 1999 E300DT:

1) VERIFY that your compressor isn't "shelled out".
2) Remove the belt from the compressor pulley and see if it rotates by hand. It should do so quite easily. My pulley had an extraordinary amount of play in it due to a failed bearing.
3) Check the Actual Values display on the A/C control Panel or hook up some gauges to verify that there is an appropriate amount of freon in the system.
4) Perform continuity check on the electromagnetic coil. Mine was OPEN.Also check that you can get power TO the coil from the associated wire.
5) Remove fan shroud, engine driven fan, serpentine belt, and sheetmetal crossmember in front of radiator.
6) Remove auxiliary fans and horn.
7) Remove front lower splash shield.
8) REMOVE RADIATOR! I tried doing this without doing so and it just didn't work. I left the hoses connected to the radiator. You're going to have to break the two ATF lines loose as well as lift the condenser UP on the left and right sides as it sits in two "L' brackets on either side of the radiator. You'll also need to remove two 10mm bolts at the bottom front of the intercooler attaching to the bottom front of the radiator.
9) Use a strap wrench to hold front of compressor and remove 10mm bolt holding front hub on. It'll come off quite easily. BE SURE to put one hand underneath to catch shims.IF you lose one, don't panic as 6mm washers work quite nicely plus you get three spare of varying thicknesses in the replacement clutch kit.
10) Use a GOOD pair of external snapring pliers to remove first snapring then remove pulley. You get new snaprings in the kit so feel free to destroy the old. A good mirror is a necessity here and in the next step.
11) This next snapring is a BITCH! It's nestled about ONE INCH inside the coil cavity. This is why the radiator had to come out as you're going to approach it head on with straight tip external pliers. I had to cut the handles down on mine. Cut down ONLY as much as you barely need as your leverage will suffer. Maybe someone has some really long 90 degree tips but I couldn't find any.
12) Remove screws holding coil ground and power wires and remove coil. My coil was BAKED!
13) Reverse steps to reinstall.
14) When you get to setting the airgap (instructions in kit specify 0.45mm, +0.15mm or -0.10mm) be sure you check it AGAIN after reinstalling the serpentine belt. The preload affects the clearance. I set mine at 0.51mm. Also be sure your feeler gauge is between the friction material on the pulley and the clutch hub. The first time I did this, I set it too close (didn't take into account the friction material, I just measured at the edge) and burned the friction material off the pulley. This caused me to have to buy a new clutch and just replace the pulley and hub. I managed this without having to remove the radiator again.

The clutch is available online for $148. The Stealer wanted $750...just for the clutch!!! God knows how much they would've charged to do it! This is the first time I've ever done a compressor clutch. Hopefully it'll last me another 7 years.

Total ATF lost was about one pint. I elected not to replace the waterpump and thermostat as preventive maintenance. Only thing left to do is clear the DTC's from the A/C panel.

[notorious ALE]

USAA agreed to pay for the entire AC system replacement: radiator, hoses, dryer, evaporator, compressor, etc. I am mildly ecstatic, to put it lightly. All work done tomorrow!
I will have a car again!