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Old 04-20-2006, 06:13 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Date registered: Feb 2006
Vehicle: 2008 E550 w/AMG Trim
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Diesel Injector Pump Leak...???...

Hi,
I just picked up a 98 300TD. It had an evaporator core leaking so I took it to the dealer 'cause I wanted the work done right. The motor was spotless when we got the car. Now, all of a sudden the injector pump is leaking from the top of the pump. This does not sound very common to me. Those pumps are almost bullet proof. Anyone hear of anything like this. Is this a case of the deal thought he saw me coming? If it is true, are there any options other then a $2200, 2-3 week wait pump repair?
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Old 04-24-2006, 10:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2005
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the problem ( it not a problem just normal wear ) is common and happens to all the Bosch diesel injection pumps at about 150K miles.Your delivery valves need to be resealed, remember thats a high-pressure pump! There is about $0.99 in parts involved such as an o-ring for each valve and a copper seat, but if you bring it to the dealer they will charge several hours or try to sell you an injection pump. Very easy job but if you do not have direct access to the top of the injection pump then you will have to remove the intake manifold and if you do that you should change everything that you can get your hands on such as glow plugs and plastic hoses to the injection pump, ect. If you choose to do the job yourself you must note the Bosch part number on the side of the pump and order the parts along with one special socket from your local Bosch dealer for about $50.00. The special socket is splined on the inside and will be used unscrew the valves from the top of the pump ( after you remove the steel injection lines from the top and the "banjo" looking locks that are around the base of each valve ). Also in order to loosen the steel injection lines you will need a good flare nut wrench ( buy a set a sears for $25.00 so you can do other jobs such as blead you brakes later on as well ). Buy about 10 orings and copper seats just in case you damage a couple or loose something.

if you do the job just remember to be very clean, degrease your engine and injection pump the day before to be free of water, after you remove the banjo-locks Clean around the delivery valves with carburetor cleaner ( it pressure-cleans great and evaporates quickly ) unscrew the delvery valves SLOWLEY because a small spring lives inside of them and it can easily be lost when you lift them out. The copper seat sits under the spring. Repair one valve at a time. Keep a tweesers handy to remove and replace the copper seat. Remove the old o-ring from around the valve. Reassembly is the reverse. Tighten the valves snug and the injection lines with the flared wrench tight in order to seat the steel lines.

good luck
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Old 08-16-2006, 07:07 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Date registered: Aug 2006
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Leaking from above fuel pump?

Howdy,

Recently my wife began to smell diesel fuel in my 1997 E300D. I bought it used last year and it seems the previous owner never changed the fuel filters. The gaskets on the filters were cracked and leaking fuel. Changed the filters and no more leaks from the filters...but now I have a leak (or several leaks) from what appears to be the fuel pump. Actually, the leak is coming from the top of the pump where there are 6 lines connected. I guess the pressure is better now so I found another weak spot in the system.

I think this is the same problem being discussed here. Please let me know.

I am a relatively new diesel "mechanic", but I have worked on plenty of gas cars. Heres the rub, I have no idea what the unit where the gas is leaking is called.

Check out my photo of the part in question, the area where the gas is leaking is right where they make contact with the pump. There is gas around the "star" screws too.

http://www.sheabutterstore.com/image...-LEAK-SITE.jpg

I took off the intake, wiped everything down and started the car. I saw gas pooling around the 6 lines. The leak is not coming from the top of the lines, but rather from the bottom where the lines make contact to what I think is the fuel pump. Like I said, I have linked to a photo of the leaking unit in question. Is there some sort of gasket(s) that could be the culprit? Is the gas line pressurized? If so, how do I relieve the pressure so I can remove the screws holding the lines to the "pump" (I still think it is a pump)

Note that all six of the lines are dry at the tops and are only wet with fuel where they make contact with the plates holding them in place. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 08-17-2006, 06:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2005
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Yeah thats the delivery valves leaking. The lines are not pressurized. THe little banjo looking things that are placed around each valve are locks that keep the valves from unscrewing. after removing them you will expose a lot of dirt so clean very well all around the base of the valves with a tooth brush and an evaporative carb type spray cleaner. dont use water so as not to get any in the fuel system. Remove and replace only one valve at a time and move slowly, there is a small spring inside ( not under tension ) unscrew each valve by hand and lift straight up very slowly. With the valve out you will see the spring standing there ( as long as you did'nt knock it over ) If you wish you can take the spring out and replace the little copper washer that sits under it. the Oring goes into the groove on the valve just above the threaded area. If you took apart you maniforld with no issures you will have no problems with this job. On the re-assembly of the intake manifold remember to reconnect your vacuum lines ( under the cross over tube - or you will feel it when your transmission shifts gears ) and there is one linkage on the injection pump that goes straight up through the intake - remember to put that back into position - its a pain if you forget it dangling and re-assemble the intake. Also as you will have loosen and remove the steel fuel lines from the tops of the delivery valves. to get them out of the way you will have to push them up, becareful not to bend them too much. When you retighten the steel lines to the valves get a flare wrench and tighten them good n tight several times! Its a steel to steel connection - no gasket. I jiggle the lines as i tighten them to help seat them onto their original positon on top of the valve ( since you bent the lines ever so slightly to get them out of the way, now you will have to bend them back and the alignment will be a little off ).

good luck.
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Old 08-17-2006, 06:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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and i forgot to mention - WORK CLEAN !!!! NO DIRT OR DUST ON YOUR HANDS OR IN THE SYSTEM.
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Old 08-21-2006, 05:56 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Date registered: Aug 2006
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Thanks james411. You are da' man. I will start the job as soon as the 32 point socket arrives that i ordered last week(so I can remove the valves easily). I went to the local MB dealer and purchased the copper washers and the rubber washers. I do not have a flare wrench though. I wont tell you how I got the vacuum lines lossened and removed. ( I am an engineer though, so it did involve a little 'fulcrum'). I will buy one today. I will keep my hands and work area clean and give you an update after the job. THANKS!
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Old 09-20-2006, 01:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2006
Vehicle: 1997 W210 E300D
Posts: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by moherb
Howdy,

Recently my wife began to smell diesel fuel in my 1997 E300D. I bought it used last year and it seems the previous owner never changed the fuel filters. The gaskets on the filters were cracked and leaking fuel. Changed the filters and no more leaks from the filters...but now I have a leak (or several leaks) from what appears to be the fuel pump. Actually, the leak is coming from the top of the pump where there are 6 lines connected. I guess the pressure is better now so I found another weak spot in the system.

I think this is the same problem being discussed here. Please let me know.

I am a relatively new diesel "mechanic", but I have worked on plenty of gas cars. Heres the rub, I have no idea what the unit where the gas is leaking is called.

Check out my photo of the part in question, the area where the gas is leaking is right where they make contact with the pump. There is gas around the "star" screws too.

http://www.sheabutterstore.com/image...-LEAK-SITE.jpg

I took off the intake, wiped everything down and started the car. I saw gas pooling around the 6 lines. The leak is not coming from the top of the lines, but rather from the bottom where the lines make contact to what I think is the fuel pump. Like I said, I have linked to a photo of the leaking unit in question. Is there some sort of gasket(s) that could be the culprit? Is the gas line pressurized? If so, how do I relieve the pressure so I can remove the screws holding the lines to the "pump" (I still think it is a pump)

Note that all six of the lines are dry at the tops and are only wet with fuel where they make contact with the plates holding them in place. Any help would be appreciated.
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It looks like we may have the same car and fuel leak. Recently, I noticed that my 1997 E300D smelled more of diesel than normal. I just bought the car back in May 2006 and I don't think the fuel filter has been changed. I haven't noticed any leaks yet so maybe I won't have any. Hopefully the filter change will restore the power as well.
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Old 10-28-2006, 09:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Date registered: Oct 2006
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Does anyone haev a good source for copper rings and O rings the dealer in my area are telling me that these parts aren't available. I have a 96 E300 early year model.
Where do you find the injector pump model/serial numberS?
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Old 10-29-2006, 11:15 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Vehicle: 1999 E300DT (RIP) 2001 E55
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Thumbs up Part Numbers for Delivery Valve Resealing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe_irev
Does anyone haev a good source for copper rings and O rings the dealer in my area are telling me that these parts aren't available. I have a 96 E300 early year model.
Where do you find the injector pump model/serial numberS?
Stuff some paper towels in your head intake ports so you don't drop anything in there.

These were provided to me for my change and they worked wonderfully:

Part numbers:
O-ring : A 017 997 41 48
Copperseal : A 004 997 45 40
Spring : A 000 074 37 93 (The Stealer probably won't have this one in stock so don't lose one.)
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Old 10-29-2006, 03:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Date registered: Oct 2006
Vehicle: 1997 E300
Location: Seattle
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Does anybody know the part # for the 32 point socket used ? Or better yet, overnighting yours to me so I can borrow it. I can't seem to get any help at auto parts store or at the stealership. Thanks for all the good info this forum has provided. The pride the diy'er feels when she starts up after reassembly is priceless.
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