Vehicle: 1999E320 Wagon,2000 E 320 Wagon, 2000 E 55 powered wagon MGB Track/Rally 94 Subaru
Posts: 5,071
No
and no.Get it on a lift and check for a blown gasket or a bad cat.Bad mounts lead to vibrations and excessive engine lift,not loud booming noises.Have it checked out ,before something checks out
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"Oh Lord, won't you buy me
a Mercedes Benz
My friends all drive Porsches
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no help from my friends
So Lord, won't you buy me
a Mercedes Benz.
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I've heard that 4 matic mounts are both more expensive, and harder to do.
Any truth to this?
The above question was asked in '07 and I didn't see any reply. This is on my 2-do list for the spring and I'd appreciate any insight that you may have. Above, there's a reference to the fact hydraulic lines for the self-leveling system make it difficult, if not impossible, to use the above method.
Just finished my 1999 E320 Wagon (standard transmission, not AWD). It took me a total of four hours. (including about 1 hour for loosening the top bolt on the driver's side!)
To confirm: the top bolt is 16mm. Therefore unfortunately my I did not have a correct size ratchet wrench. I was able to loosen/tighten the top bolt with a low profile 16mm socket wrench.
I had to temporarily move the A/C compressor out of the way, but there was no need to disconnect any hoses or cables.
I did one side at a time, first the passenger's side and then the driver's side.
The top part of the motor mount has a pin that fits into a corresponding slot on the motor side, thus the motor mount "aligns itself".
Conclusion: Success. Now my car idles as smoothly as a new car.
Perhaps merge the threads mods? Just my housekeeping $0.02...
__________________ 2007 GL450, obsidian black, black leather, all available options 1998 E430, alexandrite metallic green, anthracite black leather interior, BOSE audio, factory xenons, AMG suspension, W211 E500 sport wheels with RAD bolts
Perhaps merge the threads mods? Just my housekeeping $0.02...
Nothing wrong with two, I like the variation. However, Merging is not the answer anyway because it would ruin the threads the way the software handles it (basically it weaves the threads into one, aligning the posts chronologically...which would be a mess).
Theoretically a nice idea, but rather than worry about the two DIYs on engine mounts, I'd be much happier if noobs would learn to use the search function so we wouldn't have dozens of posts on "MAF code" "regular fuel" and all the others that come up all the time.
Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
__________________ If we ever forget that we are one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under. Ronald Reagan
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To confirm: the top bolt is 16mm. Therefore unfortunately my I did not have a correct size ratchet wrench. I was able to loosen/tighten the top bolt with a low profile 16mm socket wrench.
I had to temporarily move the A/C compressor out of the way, but there was no need to disconnect any hoses or cables.
I did one side at a time, first the passenger's side and then the driver's side.
The top part of the motor mount has a pin that fits into a corresponding slot on the motor side, thus the motor mount "aligns itself".
I took a look at mine yesterday on ramps, and I cannot see how you can get into the passenger side top bolt to get it off, from the top it seems like the airbox is in the way? The driver side seems like the AC compressor moved will allow access, but the passenger side is confusing me a little. I have a 5/8 ratchet wrench but seems too long to get in there. Do you have any other helpful hints? Thanks.
I managed to take out my passenger side mounts from below using the '5 Stubby tool' from autozone. See this thread and you will see the pic. No need to come from the top unless you want to remove airbox which ofcourse is a one minute job.
I used ramps and all my work was done from under teh car. Took me 6 hours but I am a newbie.
The hardest thing was torquing all bolts (50NM for top bolts and 35NM for lower bolts) as my torque wrench would not fit. Lower bolts are OK as there is enough space for a torque wrench.
I managed to take out my passenger side mounts from below using the '5 Stubby tool' from autozone. See this thread and you will see the pic. No need to come from the top unless you want to remove airbox which ofcourse is a one minute job.
I used ramps and all my work was done from under teh car. Took me 6 hours but I am a newbie.
The hardest thing was torquing all bolts (50NM for top bolts and 35NM for lower bolts) as my torque wrench would not fit. Lower bolts are OK as there is enough space for a torque wrench.
Good luck...
What exactly is the "5 stubby tool", I went to Harbor Freight and Pep Boys and couldn't find a stubby 16mm ratchet wrench at either place. Did you torque the top bolts by guestimate?
Well, I found a local mechanic to change both of mine for $60 labor, car runs like new again, no vibrations. I can't believe I waited so long before changing them.
He was able to use a air ratchet for the top bolts to break them loose.
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Mercedes Benz Lyrics
However, Merging is not the answer anyway because it would ruin the threads the way the software handles it (basically it weaves the threads into one, aligning the posts chronologically...which would be a mess).
Linear Mode
