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Old 02-22-2006, 01:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
Art
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Auxilliary fan fuse

I own a 97 E320. Does anyone know where the fuse for the twin auxilliary fans is located? I checked all three fuse boxes(under hood, left side of dash, under rear seat) and found nothing.
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Old 07-08-2008, 04:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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hi Art ~
i am asking the same question that you asked a while ago. the location of the fuses for the aux. fan.....Did you ever find out where?
thanks, don
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Old 07-08-2008, 04:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I think there are only those 3 already mentioned fusebox locations. From what I've read, you can't always tell a burned out fuse by the appearance so you need to test them with a meter. I saw you ask about relays on your other thread, and I suppose that is another possibility.

Also, are you sure the fan motor is good? If the fuse/relay tests are inconclusive you can always hook a 12v power source to it directly.
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Last edited by Musikmann; 07-08-2008 at 05:01 PM.
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Old 07-08-2008, 05:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I don't believe that my '96 E300 has a fuse for the auxiliary fan.

If you have the M4 auxiliary fan (located in front of the condenser), it is not connected to a typical relay and resistor. The fan speed is controlled with pulse-width modulation. In addition, the controller pulses the fan to get it started, even at full demand. If the wrong electrical signal is detected during startup, the attempt is aborted and tried again in a few seconds.

Because of this, connecting a straight 12V to the fan is not a viable way to detect a bad fan motor. It can be good enough to run with 12V but not good enough to make the controller happy.

To see if you are getting power, disconnect the fan and connect the leads to a test lamp. Be sure to not short the leads in the process, due to the lack of a fuse. Then set the fan test mode to get full demand by holding both AUTO buttons for >10 seconds. If all is good with the controller, you should see the lamp flash quickly a few times, go dark for 5 or so seconds, then flash again.

Note that there is an additional fuse location, on the K40 relay module. But I doubt that you have a fan fuse there either.
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Old 07-08-2008, 05:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Glad you stepped in here Matt; it looks like I'm over my head yet again!
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Old 07-08-2008, 06:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Musikmann View Post
I think there are only those 3 already mentioned fusebox locations. From what I've read, you can't always tell a burned out fuse by the appearance so you need to test them with a meter. I saw you ask about relays on your other thread, and I suppose that is another possibility.

Also, are you sure the fan motor is good? If the fuse/relay tests are inconclusive you can always hook a 12v power source to it directly.
Thanks again musikmann.....I love mine too!...especially when it is running>
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Old 07-12-2008, 08:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Cool Matt,, Fan stays on,,

Can u help?
Te aux fan comes on about a minute after cold start up, temp <80.
The fan runs in the low mode no matter what.

Sounds like a stuck relay?? and how to test?
I will try te auto buttons now.

B
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Old 07-13-2008, 10:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
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That's a different one, MRBSMITH. It does sound like a control problem, but I doubt that it is a stuck relay. Perhaps you have a bad sensor somewhere. Check all of the current-sensor values at the climate control unit to see if something is out of line. Be sure to also check auxiliary fan demand, to ensure that the pushbutton unit knows that it's running.
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Old 07-15-2008, 01:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Cool Diagnostics run...

What a great forum!!!!

Anyway, The delay was for me to find all my notes and run the cc diagnostics again twice, and compile the results in one place.
I found I have run the cc's 4 times this year.

# 10 blower voltage has stayed constant at 6.0 for all (4)tests
#20 Aux. Fan Control Current has stayed constant at 3.2 for all (4)tests

I can post all the other sensor values if that will help.
I do not see a coolant demand sensor??

The codes varied as I erased after each test, BUT, 1416 Coolant Circulation Pump is always present and comes right back after each erase.
Looks like a new pump is needed,
do you think this is the cause of the problem??

B
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Old 07-16-2008, 10:21 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Cool Sensor and Code value - detail list

Here are all the values from the 3-4 times I have run the CC diagnostics this year.

05-10 6-14 6-15
Garage Norm. use
Sensor 1 - Inside Temperature: = 75 / 80 89 84 66
Sensor 2 - Outside Temperature: = 60 / 62 76 84 80
Sensor 3 - Left Heater Core Temperature: = 107 / 143 92 64 46
Sensor 4 - Right Heater Core Temperature: = 89 / 114 93 64 44
Sensor 5 - Evaporator Temperature: = 69 / 82 87 48 40
Sensor 6 - Engine Coolant Temperature: = 197 / 200 96 184 188
Sensor 7 - Refrigerant Pressure: = 06 / 04 06 09 8
Sensor 8 - Refrigerant Temperature: = 91 / 78 93 102 94
Sensor 9 Not used??? 31 31 32 27 35 33
Sensor10 Blower Control Voltage 0.0 to 6.0 based on fan 6 6 6.0
Sensor 11. Emission Sensor: 2.2 2.2 2.1 1.7 2.3 2.8
Sensor 12. Sun Sensor: 3.6 3.4 2.8 2.1 4.3 4.1
Sensor 20. Control Current Aux Fan: 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2
Sensor 21. Engine Speed upto 66 / cabin tac read 2500 67 34/255 42
Sensor 22. Vehicle Speed 57 0 0
Sensor 23. Terminal 58d: 32 32 32 32 32 32
Sensor 24. Battery Voltage: 13.5 13.5 13.5 13.5 13 13
Sensor 40. Software Status: 164 164 164 164 164 164
Sensor 41. Hardware Status: 91 91 91 91 91 91
Sensor 42. ???: 40 40 40 104 103 103
Sensor 43. ???: 136 136 136 136 - 136

CODES ( erased) 04/08 05/08 06/08 06/09
OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE SENSOR 1227 1227
ECT 1231 1231
SUN SENSOR 1234 1234 1234
EMISIONS SENSOR 1235 1235 1235
COOLANT CIRCULATION PUMP 1416 1416 1416 1416
REFRIG. TEMP. ( Disconnected test) 1233
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER COMMUNICATI 1422
REFRIGERENT FILL 1241

What a mess!
The rest pump is NOT working,

THX
B
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