Aftermarket parts are often a crap-shoot. My aftermarket condenser fit "fairly well," but required a tweak to the pipes to connect, and a modification to the cover on the auxiliary fan shroud due to a slightly moved high-pressure service port. But it does cool the refrigerant and the price was right.
But for the brake lamp switch, go to the dealer. As you say, this is one aftermarket part that does not hold up.
Yes I absolutely agree with getting the genuine part on this one, after all its a precision part and so you want it to work, and for the price its cheap enough. Its funny because when I wrote this post I had no idea that so many other people had the same problem and I now dont even have my W210 anymore. I should have taken more photos and done a better step by step photo instruction.
__________________ 18x235x40 (8.5J) & 18x255x35 (9.5J) Brabus Monoblocks VI reps, Eibach
Pro lowering kit no#1 pad front Zero rear. Rolled rear arches,18mm rear hubcentric spacers, Flat emblem, Kompressor skirt badges, Parking sensors, colour coded grill, Sony MEX ice apted to steering wheel buttons, blue LED modified dash.
I recently purchased a used 2001 CLK-320 with ABS-ESP lights randomly lighting, random Defective Lamp warning, random transmission failure to go into Drive after reversing and when taking off from a stop, random transmission refusal to shift gears, random cruise control inoperable and what we now notice was a poor drive train performance overall -- ALL because of the Brake Light SWITCH. Thank you so much for your posting. It was invaluable knowledge three years later in 2008.
I have a 1998 E320 that recently showed the BAS/ASR/Anti-skid warning lights. The car did not show any signs of poor operation (limp mode etc.), but the cruise control also failed to operate after the warning lights went off.
After a 5 minute search in the benzworld forum, I found this post - which described my situation and provided excellent pictures and instructions on how to correct the problem.
A $27 genuine Mercedes part and about 40 minutes of of work corrected the problem! I am one proud and happy DIY'er. Thanks for a great post!
change your transmission fluid and filter
mb spec fluid only
__________________ Cognomen derived from Mercedes Benz Lyrics
Artist(Band):Janis Joplin
"Oh Lord, won't you buy me
a Mercedes Benz
My friends all drive Porsches
I must make amends
Worked hard all my lifetime
no help from my friends
So Lord, won't you buy me
a Mercedes Benz.
That's it.
ohlord "Follow Peace,center Life"
When you remove the underside panel. There are some very sharp edges that will cut you . I got a huge cut on my middle finger...good news is the swap was easy and the lights are off...now I just have to get my check engine light to go off.
[QUOTE
abs/ets lights will come on, sometimes like today when they come on after a moment the speedometer also went to zero. This problem is absolutely the most aggrivating thing; what in Gods name would cause the speedometer to fail and be connected to the abs/ets systems - is it a wheel speed sensor? Anyone have this issue?
Alan[/quote]
I've had this issue for weeks, changed speed sensor, brake light switch even had the BAS module removed, however today all lights stayed on with the car in limp home mode, the fault readings came up with traction control failure so its with the garage to confirm either faulty connection or replace the TC unit.
My BAS/ASR light has been turning on for a few months now. After a lot of searching I came upon this thread and with the help of the instructions and pictures I just changed the switch and for the 15 minute drive from the mechanic (changed it myself, just used his shop cuz it's heated and my garage isnt) to home, the light didnt turn on once (the longest it has gone without turning on in months)
The only difference is I have a '98 C280 and there are 5 screws holding the plate/tray on and it was a bit tricky getting the small wire harness off.
It took about 20 minutes and a $26 part from the dealer.
Got the part and followed the direction up until the istall of the new brake switch....it is identical to the old one but it wont snap in for some reason.....i am trying to tweak it and move it around but it wont go into place....any suggestions (w210 2000 E320)
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