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Old 05-08-2006, 03:45 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Date registered: May 2006
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THANK YOU so much for such great pictures and instructions. I was about to let a workshop do this for big bucks when I stumbled on this.

For what it's worth, I am in Australia, the car is a 1998 E240, and here are the Australian part numbers:

A2107301646 (RHR)
A2107301546 (LHR)

The top plastic pulley in my RHR one shattered into many pieces. I fixed it, then was testing all the other windows when *CRACK* the LHR one broke as well!! This time it was the plastic housing holding the two ends of the wire and center plastic regulator piece which cracked and broke. What are the odds of both side breaking on the same day. Is this planned obsolescence?

Get ready for this, in Australia, EACH of these parts cost AUD$315 (US$230) so count yourselves lucky to have only paid US$40. (It's almost worth shipping it over, cept I needed to fix it in a hurry). Even 2nd hand parts were no cheaper. I guess this breaks so much that there is a good demand for them. The plastic pieces on the new parts did look slightly different, so maybe they have strengthened it somewhat.

Some extra tips for others who want to do this:

- the top part of the trim hooks on, so once you've unscrewed and popped the plastic clips, pull the trim away and up.

- Standard rivets were very tough, I first drilled through with a very fine drill, and progressively got larger but the larger drill bits would not bite. Finally I had to drill a little with an oversized bit then chisel the heads off, then hammered them out with a punch

- When adapting the window, note that there are two "stops" in the window switch for each direction (partially in for continuous motion as long as the button is held, fully in for automatic "completely up" or "completely down"). I had to keep pushing it all the way in for full up, and it would stop after an inch, then repeat until the window is completely up. Then the motor learned where the position of the window was when completely up.

Other than that, the guide covered everything. Thanks again ashman78!
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Old 05-08-2006, 08:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Excellent work ashman, i've made a link in the DIY Procedures & FAQ's section. It's memebers like youwho make this site great.

Thank you
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Old 06-29-2006, 08:26 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Date registered: Feb 2006
Vehicle: E320
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 17
I had the same problem today and tried to open up the door panel. My 2001 E320 has side airbags so I think there might be additional wiring and screws that have to be taken out. By taking the 3 screws out I was unable to remove the panel. I also found another tab with "SRS" inscribed on it and upon removing the tab discovered another screw. Taking this 4th screw out did not open the top side of the panel.

Any help is appreciated.
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Old 06-30-2006, 03:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Date registered: May 2006
Vehicle: 2001 E430 Designo
Location: Wine Country, CA
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by RaleighMB
I had the same problem today and tried to open up the door panel. My 2001 E320 has side airbags so I think there might be additional wiring and screws that have to be taken out. By taking the 3 screws out I was unable to remove the panel. I also found another tab with "SRS" inscribed on it and upon removing the tab discovered another screw. Taking this 4th screw out did not open the top side of the panel.

Any help is appreciated.
You've correctly found the fourth screw introduced with the door air bags. The panel will come off, you just need to make sure all the poppers are out (side and bottom of panel) and then 'wiggle' the panel up and off the top of the door.

I have an '01 E430 and with a little gentle persuasion the panel popped off.

Good luck!

- Nellie
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Old 06-30-2006, 05:32 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Date registered: Sep 2002
Vehicle: 01 E320 4MATIC Wagon
Location: Brooklyn
Posts: 389
I had the same problem with my rear door panel. After the mechanic fixed the regulator, he forgot to correctly attach the door lock plunger. I decided to try and get into the door and fix it, and found all 4 screws, but couldn't get the panel loose at the horizontal "shelf" where the glass meets the door. I managed to fix the lock nub by just reaching up in there, but am still wondering just how that panel comes off...
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Old 07-03-2006, 10:33 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2006
Vehicle: 1996 Mercedes Benz E320
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 58
i have made it this far but cant seem to get the panel off. so i suppose to pull up to release the panel from the hooks
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Old 07-05-2006, 01:35 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Date registered: May 2006
Vehicle: 2001 E430 Designo
Location: Wine Country, CA
Posts: 12
Yep. Once you've removed all the screws and released the side / bottom poppers, you simply lift the panel up and off the lip of the door. It sits fairly tightly on the lip so don't be surprised if you need the gentle application of force.

I wanted to add my heartfelt thanks to the originator of this post - replaced my left rear window regulator over the weekend and it would have been a much harder job without the above instructions.

Incidentally I found a regulator at www.partstrain.com for $15.59

I did a side by side comparison against the original and couldn't find any major differences.

Only time will tell how good (or not!) the quality is but the price was definitely amazing.

Happy DIY-ing!

- Nellie
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Old 07-07-2006, 12:32 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2006
Vehicle: 1996 Mercedes Benz E320
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 58
Thanx...i got everything off and i got the regulator off.im waiting for my part to come in. i have searched everywhere and i can find this regulator for no less than $115. i have a 96 e320 though. i think the 2000's and up are very inexpensive. but as soon as it comes in i hope to finish up
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Old 09-16-2006, 02:47 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2006
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Thanks, wasn't a bad job at all once I was past getting the old rivets out. I must have broken 4 drill bits and was down to the needlenose pliers. By the time I got to the last one, I would have dug it out with a spoon if necessary. The regulator was $114. Dealer said repair might be $500. I think the motor's also about $100. Don't pay more than $50 for this labor.
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Old 09-22-2006, 12:04 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Date registered: Sep 2006
Vehicle: 1999 Mercedes Benz E320 - Desert Silver
Location: Lancaster, CA
Posts: 2
Ashman,
You said: Source: www.stopshopanddrive.com ($46)

Their price went up a bit, but still the best price I've seen.
$64 for aftermarket, $88 for genuine. Since many in the forums
have said that the genuine stuff doesn't look improved, I just
ordered the aftermarket one from stopshopanddrive - free shipping, no tax.

I plan on using the Home Depot rivets. Has anyone noticed
inferior performance from the aluminum versus MB Steel rivets?

Thanks again for the Knowledge,
TJ

StopShopAndDrive's Window Regulators for W210:
http://www.stopshopanddrive.com/epck...opanddrive.com
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