I posted this initially on the Telematics Forum with no replies. Perhaps I should have posted it here.
Instrument Cluster outside temperature and time clock pixels displaying erratically.
Before I bought my car, I viewed a couple of E-Classes with this same problem.
A number of people suggest that cleaning the pins(?) might cure the problem. As my displays sometimes work, but mainly work only partially, I'm convinced it is caused by poor electrical contacts. The question is which pins do I clean? Are these the two multipin connectors at the back of the cluster? If so, what is the best way to clean them? I tried a cotton bud soaked in methylated spirits but the net result was temporarily much worse for about a day (as was my anxiety level!) then it went back to the original state.
I partly disassembled the cluster assembly, and could see the ribbon connectors but couldn't find a way of getting at them to clean the contacts.
My local dealer quoted £450 +vat PLUS £90 +vat labour. I thought he was having a laugh! ..... He wasn't!
I have heard that it could very well be the connectors on the ribbon cables, but I luckly haven't had to try and remedy this for myself. I couldn't say how to remove these, as I have not seen the inside of the cluster, but my experience with ribbon cables are that there should be either a clip that holds the ribbon in place or it fits through a connector of some sorts. I know this doesn't help much on how to clean the ribbon connectors, but I do believe that it has to do with the ribbon cable.
__________________ 2001 W208 Black Opal Metallic
K2a, K3, K4 + COMAND, HID halo projector headlights, flat hood emblem, chrome cluster rings, Bluetooth phone adapter, MB illuminated door sills, AMG steering wheel, AMG pedals, chrome AMG II dual spoke wheels, Nitto NT 555 Extreme Performance, 235/35/19 front, 265/30/19 rear
2004 W211 Platinum Blue Metallic
Premium Package, Apperance Package, Keyless Go, Bluetooth puck and tail
Having a problem the dash light display flickering on and off, and did a little investigation this evening. I managed to pull out the instrument console with my fingers easy enough and fiddled with the connections. This got the display lights back on but not permanently. Anyone know how to get the ribbon connectors off safely for further investigation?
I managed to get the ribbon contactors off (press a little raised plastic button at the back centre and slide a three armed holder to the side, then pull out), and sprayed liberally with contact spray.
This wasn't the problem however as the loose connection appears to be on the mother board itself. Jiggling gets it working but not permanently. Any suggestions? Do I need to get a new console?
I have the same problem with my 2000 e320. The problem is with Temperature and Transmission shift indicator. Some reason, if I start to drive the car for a while (like more than a few hours), it works OK. I suspect this could be related to battery (voltage), but I am not sure, other than these problem, everything else works fine.
On both my 2001 E430 4matics, I had the same problem. I lived with it for a while and when I had some recent service done at the dealer I mentioned it to my service guy (great service manager by the way) and he said that this was a common problem and he said the fix was to replace the clusters and the fact that I have warrentee's on both cars, I had them replaced for free. It is great seeing all of those pixels lit all the time. One of the early post mentioned that if the car is driven for a good period of time, they all come on, which is what was happening to me. The long trips will bring all of the pixels back on but I'd rather have the permimant fix. I think the total expense for the clustes / labor was around $1,300 - that's a lot of out of pocket money for pixels......[:0]
Finally got mine sorted [:)]
I went to a back lane auto electrician who found the fault lay in the console light dimmer control buttons. I told him that it was working fine but he said it was causing the problem. He bypassed it (I don't mind, I didn't use the dimmer anyway), replaced a blown bulb behind the passenger temperature control and charged me 20 euro for the work. Thank god for people like that [:D]
Had the same problem with mine but my factory warranty is still in effect so it was taken care of at no charge, but I saw the final bill ended up being in the neighborhood of $1100.
It now has only 3 pixels out as opposed to nothing at all for the temp. and iro about 20+ on the gear selector/time clock.
First of all I'm told DON'T SWITCH THE IGNITION ON WITH THE CLUSTER REMOVED!
You have to take out the cluster using the T-handle tools (available from your local dealer or e-Bay)and disassemble the cluster removing both the front and rear covers.
Unclip the assembly from the PCB carefully, one side at a time in the area around the ribbon cables.
Where the ribbon cable is clamped by two plastic blocks with rubber(?) strips at the bottom (two places) you need to insert a piece of rubber strip between the existing rubber strip and the ribbon cable. Squeeze firmly and the plastic clips should re-engage with the PCB. Refit the front and rear covers and replace the cluster and .... mine now works! (It did take two attempts though).
I e-mailed VDO who manufacture the assembly and I have a copy of an internal memo that states that there were known problems with the bonding of the ribbon cable! Why then do us poor suckers carry the cost of their ineffective design? It appears to be a cheaper way to make it rather than the more usual ribbon connector block - strangely found connecting the central pixel display.
Linear Mode
