Well, I've read about it. I've worried about it. Today, I experienced it. [:(!]
Crack! Clunk!.....Oh @#$%$#, I know what that was. Yes the left rear regulator gave up.
I've been looking around on the internet and found a replacement anywhere from $49 on up.
I'm concerned about getting a cheap piece of junk if I buy an aftermarket part. Does anyone have any opinions on OEM from the dealer vs. the potential of using an aftermarket part from another source. Is one better or worse than the other? Is there an aftermarket solution that is an improvement over the original factory solution?
Sorry you had to experience this, Jeff. I've been lucky
so far, but if the reports from various owners are any
indication, I should just pick up one just in case.....
as it is more likely I'll need one.
Thought: OEM v aftermarket, vis a vis your question,
if the OEM is so bad, the aftermarket units have to be
even worst. To piggyback on your question, did OEM
design/reliability improve, or would we just be picking
up same level of quality and you just experienced?
{rolling my eyes at the quality and integrity of this
M-B regular issue}
The same window regulator failed on my 98 E430 while I was on vacation in Green Bay two weeks ago. There are great instructions for the do-it-yourself folks within this forum...I got the replacement regulator at the local MB dealer for $80 and purchased the heavy duty rivets from them also. I didn't have time to wait for an e-bay auction to close or for shipping delays as I was away from home and couldn't live with a permanently "down" left rear window. The procedure for replacement is straightforward. Please post your decision and rationale if you select an aftermarket regulator because we knowwe will be doing the job again in the future....
thanks,
Jim
I have replaced every regulator in my Benz. My last regulator was $66.00 $2.00 for the rivets and about 45 minutes of my time.. You will need a heavy duty pop rivet gun to pull the aircraft quality rivets down tight... Good luck
Lucky me... this just happened to me as well. The problem is I can't seem to get the back door panel off to see what the problem is (even thought we all know what the problem is). I have followed almost all of the directions that I can find, but I don't know if there is a difference between the ones that have an airbag and the ones that don't (mine has one). The reason why I comment on this, is becuase there looks to be a braket of some sorts that goes from the door frame to the door panel which is right beside the SRS portion. I will be attempting to get this off, but I may just have to buck up and send it in. This is the wife's car anyway [;)].
__________________ 2001 W208 Black Opal Metallic
K2a, K3, K4 + COMAND, HID halo projector headlights, flat hood emblem, chrome cluster rings, Bluetooth phone adapter, MB illuminated door sills, AMG steering wheel, AMG pedals, chrome AMG II dual spoke wheels, Nitto NT 555 Extreme Performance, 235/35/19 front, 265/30/19 rear
2004 W211 Platinum Blue Metallic
Premium Package, Apperance Package, Keyless Go, Bluetooth puck and tail
Okay, I figured out my own issue. Besides there being a screw behind the cap that is behind the inside door handle there is a screw behind the SRS badge in the side panel. Once those two screws where removed it was as simple as everyone has mentioned. I guess the screws are there for extra reenforcement for the airbag. Well intially when I saw all the cables I thought, oh this will be easy, I can probably just whined up the cables re-attach and away we go. NOT!!! It just going to be simplier to get the parts and get it done right. Now to get the parts and get it done.
I too struggled with the door panel removal. The same two screws were hiding from me as well...the one behind the door handle trim and the one behind the SRS badge. Now the panel is tucked away in my trunk awaiting the regulator repair.
I wound up buying an OEM part from my local dealer. It was around $80 from them (and in stock, imagine that) which was competative enough for me to choose them over the variety of sources available on the internet.
My friend (who's building an airplane in his garage) just returned from vacation, so I anticipate finishing up the repair this week when I can get a look at the rivet guns he has. I figure he's got a decent one I can borrow to pull the factory steel rivets since he's set more than a few on his homebuilt.
Also, after you replace the regulator, you may need to reprogramm the window's auto roll up/down.
The idiot mechanic that assisted me, had no clue. So guess what, he suggested that the motor was bad too, and after he replaced the motor, he suggested that the buttons needed to be cleaned or replaced.
Bottom line is once you put it all togather press and hold up button all the way and hold it for 3-5 sec. after it goes all the way up, then do the same holding down. The computer will relearn the auto close/open positions.
Good luck.
PS: Good thing I didn't have to pay for his mistakes.
Is this also a common problem to the E-230 like mine? If it is, I just don't want it to fail like my front spring perch a couple of weeks back. Thank you you all.
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