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Old 07-13-2008, 02:09 PM   #61 (permalink)
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ok i found it - but man, what a pain it'll be to get at it. especially w/ a tool/screwdriver.

anyone have any recommendations on a particular tool to buy? I did a google search and came up with a variety of types of screwdrivers, etc. to use, not sure exactly what the torx bit looks like and which type of screwdriver/bit/extender would be best - recommendations would be helpful as I don't want to invest in tools to find they're not best for this application.

i use my fathers tools for the most part (don't have a garage of my own) and he has a socket-type screwdriver set but since i can't even really see the bit i'm trying to get at i'm not sure i want to play around with bits to have them potentially fall into the space between the engine and firewall...
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Old 07-13-2008, 02:28 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fju2112 View Post
ok i found it - but man, what a pain it'll be to get at it. especially w/ a tool/screwdriver.

anyone have any recommendations on a particular tool to buy? I did a google search and came up with a variety of types of screwdrivers, etc. to use, not sure exactly what the torx bit looks like and which type of screwdriver/bit/extender would be best - recommendations would be helpful as I don't want to invest in tools to find they're not best for this application.

i use my fathers tools for the most part (don't have a garage of my own) and he has a socket-type screwdriver set but since i can't even really see the bit i'm trying to get at i'm not sure i want to play around with bits to have them potentially fall into the space between the engine and firewall...
Read my last several posts in this thread (esp. #54 and #58) and if you still have questions PM your phone no and I'll give you a call.
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Last edited by gregs210 : 07-13-2008 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:21 PM   #63 (permalink)
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read the

diy on mercedesshop.com also.Get a bright flashlight.pop your hood all the way up with the hood release by the hinge. put a cover on the fender to lay on
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Old 07-13-2008, 04:30 PM   #64 (permalink)
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thanks ohlord - did all that.

still difficult to see and get at. remember I have a 2002, so it might be different than some of those w/ a pre-y2k model.

i can see, and reach, but not do both at the same time w/ this part. seems from gregs posts and the pdf out there that what i'd need to do is unclip it, then I'll have access to the torx bit which fastens it into place AFTER i remove it from the clip and have it in my hand (??? is this right or wrong, not really clear here). i guess i have to find a tool that will unscrew an "E8 torx fastener". as i stated, did a google search and not entirely sure which tool i woud need, if a particular type of extension is recommended - please offer a recommendation?

so far i have been unable to unclip this part. i imagine it's much like the MAFS clipping into place, except in this case, i can't see exactly where to put pressure to unclip it.
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Old 07-13-2008, 09:31 PM   #65 (permalink)
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the E8 is the same a 1/4". I used my 1/4" rachet set and a 1/4" socket. That little bolt was pretty tight.
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Old 07-13-2008, 11:42 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fju2112 View Post
thanks ohlord - did all that.

still difficult to see and get at. remember I have a 2002, so it might be different than some of those w/ a pre-y2k model.

i can see, and reach, but not do both at the same time w/ this part. seems from gregs posts and the pdf out there that what i'd need to do is unclip it, then I'll have access to the torx bit which fastens it into place AFTER i remove it from the clip and have it in my hand (??? is this right or wrong, not really clear here). i guess i have to find a tool that will unscrew an "E8 torx fastener". as i stated, did a google search and not entirely sure which tool i woud need, if a particular type of extension is recommended - please offer a recommendation?

so far i have been unable to unclip this part. i imagine it's much like the MAFS clipping into place, except in this case, i can't see exactly where to put pressure to unclip it.
Hey, FJ.

I thought I noted somewhere that you can see or touch, but not both. The job is all by feel once you stick your hand in there. If you have the newer one the clip will be on the top, kind of squeeze it with your thumb towards the top of the plug that will release it. I'm fairly certain yours is the newer one with only one clip.

I would suggest you head over to Sears and buy the Lisle brand of internal and external torx sockets. These are very good quality and much less costly than Craftsman or Proto, (or those pricey German brands!) etc. and should be fine for casual use (as opposed to a line mechanic). While the OP used an allen wrench on his older one and sixbangr used a US socket, it is always best to use the proper tool to remove a particular fastener. Otherwise all you need is vice-grips and two hammers (if it doesn't come off you need a bigger hammer).

I think you can buy both of those sets for $30-35. I assume you already have socket sets, ratchets, extensions, etc. in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drive.

That and a good set of screwdrivers is what you need for most jobs on the car.

If you want to do it piecemeal, you can, but you'll end up spending lots more money.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

Last edited by gregs210 : 07-13-2008 at 11:45 PM.
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Old 07-14-2008, 05:27 AM   #67 (permalink)
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thanks greg. to clarify, i also needed to know if i need the torx bit needs to be unscrewed by feel way down in that gap, or if unclipping it gives one enough slack to bring it up into eyesight and then work on the bolt. w/ the mafs, i believe the part is connected by wires without much slack such that you really can't take the part outside the hood to work on it before removing the torx.

I do have a set of "security torx" sets that I bought when my wife's old Passat needed the MAFS replaced, but they are labeled T8-T25, not E8. there's also an entire small screwdriver socket set i can use; if a 1/4" regular socket will work, that's what i'll try.
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Old 07-14-2008, 09:43 AM   #68 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fju2112 View Post
thanks greg. to clarify, i also needed to know if i need the torx bit needs to be unscrewed by feel way down in that gap, or if unclipping it gives one enough slack to bring it up into eyesight and then work on the bolt. w/ the mafs, i believe the part is connected by wires without much slack such that you really can't take the part outside the hood to work on it before removing the torx.

I do have a set of "security torx" sets that I bought when my wife's old Passat needed the MAFS replaced, but they are labeled T8-T25, not E8. there's also an entire small screwdriver socket set i can use; if a 1/4" regular socket will work, that's what i'll try.
Re: MAF, you simply disconnect the wire, then pop out the assembly, if you want to remove the sensor then you can easily do so.

Re: CPS once you find it you are then working completely by touch. With your hand in the way you won't be able to see a thing.

T20, T27, etc are size indicators for INTERNAL torx type fasteners. E8, E12, etc. are size indicators for EXTERNAL torx type fasteners. When you have the proper tools in front of you you'll see that they fit together perfectly. Open your hood and look at the bolts that secure the alternator, see those funny heads? Those are external torx. That way you know what kind of fastener you are dealing with.

I would caution you not to use a regular socket on a torx bolt. 1, if you can't get it out, you have done a bit of work just to get to that point. 2, if you damage the head of the bolt in the process, you may not be able to get it out even with the proper tool. There is no reason to skimp and shortcut here; it isn't a question of being stuck in the middle of nowhere, go ahead and try anything. The tools are readily available, if you plan on DIY then get them and use the proper tool for the job.

Think of it like oil. Should you already have some 20W ND on hand, why not just dump that in between changes? Convenience should never be a significant deciding factor in such decisions.

Do yourself, your car and the car's future owner a favor: get the proper tools and do it correctly.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
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Old 07-14-2008, 11:22 AM   #69 (permalink)
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ok - say i don't want to invest in a new set of tools, can you recommend a particular tool for THIS job that will work with a normal set of ratchets, extenders, etc.?

i was referring to the VW MAF which has a security torx bolt you can deal with after unclipping the sensor. seems that one has to first unscrew, THEN unclip the sensor but i'm not entirely sure on this yet.
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Old 08-08-2008, 05:51 PM   #70 (permalink)
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CPS RECALIBRATION, anyone?

Okay, so recently the issue was addressed on the forum, I thought it would be useful to have in THE ACTUAL THREAD where the DIY is discussed, so here you go...courtesy of ohlord. I also stuck the words in the title for this post, so hopefully a search will return it for those looking for it in the future.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ohlord
Oh yea of little faith
No SDS indexing is needed,the proper procedure is directly after replacement.
Start the engine and slowly bring the rpms up over a period of 2 minutes from idle to 2500 rpms,this allows the new cps to index itself to the ECU and really set it into sync with the flywheel indexers.Do it and the car will run better,don't do it and you may never know what you are missing

ohlord
Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
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