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Steering Wheel Swap, step by step

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60K views 32 replies 22 participants last post by  Al_Savage  
#1 ·
Okay, folks, I finally got around to changing my W210 steering wheel. This basic procedure is the same for pretty much all of the newer MBZ vehicles with airbags.

First, a few caveats. Remember that this is a basic procedure, but not for the faint of heart. Make a misstep and you could end up with a mess. Second, be prepared; once you have the airbag assembly off is not the time to find out you don't have the tool necessary to pull the retaining bolt. Third, take your time; no sense in rushing. Last, be sure you have your owner's manual and radio code handy.

STEP ONE. Bring the steering wheel to almost center, I left it slightly left as you can see in the photo to permit easier access to the left airbag assembly bolt. Extend the steering wheel from the dash as far as it will go.

STEP TWO. Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. You can access the lead from the snap-off cover in front of the right-side rear passenger seat. It's a 7/16" nut. Be sure you have unlocked all doors and that the key is in your pocket. Close the door to extinguish the dome light, then remove the nut and pull the lug off the terminal end. I stuck the plastic cover halfway back in to ensure the cable lug wouldn't drift back over and make contact.

STEP THREE. Loosen each of the airbag assembly retaining screws. They are T30 Torx, but you can use an allen wrench if you desire. Although I had torx sockets, the hole provided is too small for anything other than a straight-shaft tool, so I ended up using a 5/32 allen wrench and a cheater to get enough torque to loosen these screws. Once each of the screws is loose, go ahead and completely loosen them. They will remain in the steering wheel, so you'll have to periodically pull on the airbag assembly to see if you're finished loosening them.
 

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#2 ·
RE: Steering Wheel Swap, step by step (Part II)

STEP FOUR. Gently pull the airbag assembly away from the steering wheel and rotate it as in the picture. Pull the yellow airbag connector straight off the airbag and then disconnect the other connector. Remove the airbag assembly and set it somewhere safe.

STEP FIVE. Use a 10mm allen-head socket to loosen the steering wheel retaining bolt. This bolt has a tapered seat and will be very tight to break loose. Don't use the steering wheel lock but rather have a helper hold the steering wheel while you loosen it. When the bolt is quite loose tug on the steering wheel; it should slide forward. If not, have the holder pull on it while you use a small piece of wood and a hammer to strike a blow to the retaining bolt. Don't hit your helper!

STEP SIX. With the wheel able to move, remove the tapered retaining bolt and, supporting the wheel with one hand, carefully feed the connector wires and ends through the hole noted in the picture. Remove the wheel.
 

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#3 ·
RE: Steering Wheel Swap, step by step (Part III)

STEP SEVEN. Support the new wheel and feed the wires back through the same hole. Line up the wheel and place it in position, securing it with the retaining bolt. 60-70 ft. lbs. should be fine; once the taper seat hits, torque will rise dramatically.

STEP EIGHT. Reinstall the airbag assembly, connect the general connector first, and then the airbag connector. Align the airbag assembly into place and start the two screws, then tighten them.

STEP NINE. Close the doors and reconnect the battery. Replace the plastic cover.

STEP TEN. Go through the manual's procedures to correct the malfunction warnings, reset the power windows and enable your radio.

STEP ELEVEN. Go for a drive, enjoy the new feeling!
 

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#7 ·
one question i just noticed on the pics, what is the lever on the right side of the wheel? mine only has two on the left -- hmmmmm
 
#9 ·
gregs210 said:
STEP TEN. Go through the manual's procedures to correct the malfunction warnings, reset the power windows and enable your radio.
I've disconnected the battery in my '96 E300 a few times. Once for an entire week.

When it is reconnected, I must enter the radio code but nothing else needs to be reset. The seat memory, window positions and IR synchronization remains.

Do you have any idea why this is so?
 
#11 ·
STICKY ====> DIY Thread

Folks,
Thanks for the feedback.

The wheel actually is from an AMG, I bought it from a member at MBworld who had put it on his E430 and then sold it (and a bunch of other stuff) when the dealer told him it wouldn't make any difference in his trade. If memory serves, he paid close to 9 for it, I think I paid him around 2 or 250 plus shipping. Definitely my luck that his dealer was a rat. ;)

If you're not in a rush and want what I consider is probably the best price and selection I've seen, *www.for my mercedes.com* (remove the spaces between the asterisks, this site blocks the link if properly typed) is the place I'd go. Perforated leather, etc., all kinds of options. I've heard some interesting anecdotes about the owner but honestly, if I were in the market for one he'd be the place I'd source it. He has some other tasty items as well. :)

Matt, re: yours not requiring a reset other than the radio code, that is a puzzler. :confused: I was under the impression that all 210s blanked the windows, seats, ESP, ABS, etc. Does your manual discuss this? Mine is specific about what has to be reset after a battery disconnect, but it is much newer in the 210 line and yours is close to the beginning. Too, I have heard there is a battey mod you can do that stores information, but it seems that should also store the radio. Ah, well, consider yourself lucky!

Gentlemen mods, can we get this thread added to the DIY sticky thread? Seems like it fits.

Take care, all, and enjoy the ride.
 
#13 ·
gregs210 said:
Matt, re: yours not requiring a reset other than the radio code, that is a puzzler. :confused: I was under the impression that all 210s blanked the windows, seats, ESP, ABS, etc. Does your manual discuss this? Mine is specific about what has to be reset after a battery disconnect, but it is much newer in the 210 line and yours is close to the beginning. Too, I have heard there is a battey mod you can do that stores information, but it seems that should also store the radio. Ah, well, consider yourself lucky!
I consider myself very lucky, but I'd like to understand why this is so. My owner's manual says that the seats, windows and IR remote must be synchronized when the power is disconnected; clearly this is not so. In addition, upon reconnecting the battery after a full week of disconnection, the emissions tests showed ready on the OBDII port.

My car may be old, but the IFI injection computer and RLC were replaced before I got the car; I don't recall the date of the repair, but I think it was two or three years ago. One major symptom of these parts being changed is that I now have start lock-out, which wasn't on the car when it shipped. But it's my understanding that the seat memory is not in either of these parts. I don't know where the window and mirror memory sits.
 
#14 ·
Good information, and a very tempting mod. Someone posted that the wood wheel gets very hot in the direct sun. That person also had a black leather wrapped wheel. So, was it the leather or the wood that got hot?

Luckily, I have a tan leather 2002 W210, so maybe it won't get so hot.

Also, do you find that your hand slips on the wood; that it doesn't give you a good grip? I can drive mine with one finger thanks to the grip of the leather. It would be nice to try out a wheel before installing it, but not possible if buying online. Maybe if I got an AMG one from the dealer.....
 
#16 ·
Hey, vili1982.

When a thread is in the DIY sticky it's still current, so you're not digging up old resources.

I haven't done one on a W124, but I can't imagine it would be dramatically different, MB seems to do things very much the same. As big as the W124 forum is I can't imagine someone there hasn't removed their steering wheel, so you might try posting an inquiry there.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
 
#22 ·
G'day,
I have a question that seems to have been asked before but I havent been able to find a conclusive answer. My question is can the steering wheel from a pre-face lift W210 ie. a '98 be replaced by a face lift model steering wheel?
I do understand that the face lift airbag has the switches on it but will the airbag from the pre-face lift fit as is on a steering wheel from a face lift model?
I have already replaced my '98 stock wheel with a wood trimmed wheel and now I want to replace it with an AMG wheel (black and white wheel) but the seller reckons it is for a face lift model and wouldnt fit on his car.
Has anyone done this swap before?
Regards
 
#24 ·
As I think I noted, I lucked into mine. Start shopping is all I can tell you. They start in the several-hundred range and kick to over a grand.

There are also some places that will rehab yours to your specs, but you have to ship them your wheel and be without the car for a couple of weeks. (If you want to go that route and can't be without your car that long, then you can look into buying a stock used wheel (any color would do, though it might look odd in certain combinations) to put on while yours is being reworked.
 
#26 ·
Did your old wheel go to Canada ??

Hey Greg;
Thought I might just swap out the old one for yours..
Do you still have it?
Ready to trade new center radio and trim ( I put in command).

THX
B
 
#28 ·
Hey Greg;
Thought I might just swap out the old one for yours..
Do you still have it?
Ready to trade new center radio and trim ( I put in command).

THX
B
Sorry, B. I'm not subscribed to this thread, so I just saw this. I surely wasn't trying to ignore you. (I still had/have the wheel, too.)

Hope it turned out well...any pics of the results?

Again, my apologies. :eek:
 
#30 ·
Well, this qualifies as a reply, though it's not particularly helpful. And, by the way, the reason the other reply was missed is because it's really not apropos to the topic; these sorts of inquiries constitute a hijacking of the thread and should have been addressed through a separate topic. Cluttering up a useful DIY thread with extraneous information isn't usually helpful to anyone else. Nor is anyone else likely to find this little interchange buried in the middle of a DIY, so it won't help others who may have the same question in the future.

That said: the 211 wheel won't work. The hub is the same so it likely would bolt on, but it won't accept any of the bits and pieces from the 210 and it won't align in the back with the 210 dash.

Whether a facelift wheel will work is another question. Since I'm not aware of anyone who's tried that, I can't hazard a guess. If you want to be the test bunny, there are several for sale on ebay, including this one which is a bit shopworn but great as a test bunny, and pretty cheap, too: Mercedes Benz E320 W210 Steering Wheel Black | eBay

If it fits and all the other bits and pieces go in properly, then you can add to the knowledge base here.

Good luck.