My wife's 2001 E320 is coming up on a "B service". What exactly is recommended at that interval? Also, what are your preferred on-line parts sources? Thanks in advance.
Hi, I'm coming up on mine as well -- and I also live in the bay area. Don't tell me your wife's car is brilliant silver with the charcoal interior, too!
Here are my favorite three on-line suppliers, in order:
www.autohausaz.com
www.autopartswarehouse.com
(these two offer free shipping at the $50 price point)
http://parts.m-bz.org (this dumb site...you have to remove the dash from between the "m" and "b" of that address)
(free shipping at $75 price point)
If you're doing the oil change yourself get the fleece oil filter kit from above and Mobil1 0W-40 (you can get this weight at Wal-Mart), it's 8.5 quart capacity(!).
A&B summaries are below; take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
Here's the lowdown on the services A&B (stolen from another thread on this forum):
Service A
Change your vehicle's engine oil and filter
- Replace the dust filter in all SLK, CLK, C-Class and E-Class models
- Ensure the warning and indicator lamps, horn, windshield/headlamp
wiper and washer systems, and seat belts are functioning correctly
- Inspect tires and check tire pressure (including spare)
- Inspect brake pad thickness and disc condition
- Check and correct all fluid levels
- Reset your vehicle's FSS counter
*Model year 1998 through 2004 vehicles are equipped with the Flexible Service System (FSS)
Service B
- Change your vehicle's engine oil and filter
- Replace the dust filter in all SLK, CLK, C-Class and E-Class models,
and in S-Class and SL-Class models without the active charcoal filter
- Replace windshield wiper inserts
- Inspect and rotate tires
- Lubricate and inspect throttle linkage
- Ensure the parking brake, steering play, headlamps and exterior lamps,
warning and indicator lamps, horn, windshield/headlamp wiper and washer
systems, seat belts, and backrest lock (S-Class only) are functioning correctly
- Inspect tires and check tire pressure (including spare)
- Inspect brake pad thickness and disc condition
- Inspect front axle ball joints and Poly-V-belt
- Check and correct all fluid levels
- Reset your vehicle's FSS counter
It's all spelled out in the owner's manual too. Another neat aid is the trifold sheet that the dealer uses as a checklist when they perform the service. My dealer gave me a bunch of them for free and they are nice to have to make notes on and check off what you've done and not done as you go through it all.
Greg,
Thanks for the info,it looks like a lot of "check and verify". I should have mentioned in my original post that the car has about 45k, and I'm thinking that changing the power steering fluid may be in order. My experience is primarily in Audi's and we loved rebuilding those leaking racks.
The 8 1/2 quart sump capacity is how they they can get such a long interval on oil changes (that plus the synthetic oil). Speaking of synthetic oil, synthetic gear oil has a tendency to evaporate (hard to believe I know), but over time it can cause a real problem in something not inspected on a regular basis, so I guess I'll check the final drive.
As to color, it's black with tinted windows. Looks kind of like a mafia staff car, but when your buying used...
I'm just relieved she's not driving around in my car. [:)]
When I had mine in to get a few things fixed just before the warranty expired, they estimated $1,000 for the "B" service around 60K miles, which would include flushing the cooling system and brake systems, plus the "B" service items. Another post mentioned a guy was quoted $1,500 for the "B" but it included $560 for brake work. His quote was $490 flat for the "B" service, plus a hundred each for flushing the cooling and brake systems and some other assorted fixes.
I think when the "B" comes up I'm going to investigate an independent Benz shop; I've heard it's about half the price.
On the oil changes, the other reason MBZ can extend it that much is the fleece oil filter. They spec the fleece filter with the synthetic, so...
Just curious, do you do your own oil changes or do you take it in? I'm a firm believer in draining rather than using a topsider and have been thinking about posting a pictorial step-by-step, do you think that's worthwhile? It seems like there is a lot of interest but lots of misinformation, too.
Linear Mode
