2004 CLK 320 (W209) Rotor/Pads Replacement DIY - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 01-04-2012, 08:39 AM
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2004 CLK 320 (W209) Rotor/Pads Replacement DIY

I'm pretty sure this topic has been covered but my search did not show many posts with DIY Rotor/Pads Replacement....So here's my experience so far.

My local Merc shop quoted me (not kidding) $1,557.00 USD to replace the rotors (OEM), pads (OEM), brake wear sensors (OEM), labor and a shoe up my ass on the way out the door......no thanks.

I purchased the following to complete the replacement from R1 Concepts. Disc Brake Rotors & Pads | R1Concepts.com (They are great to work with)

EDS.35058 Performance Cross Drilled Slotted Disc Brake Rotors (2)
EDS.35034 Performance Cross Drilled Slotted Disc Brake Rotors (2)
105.08720 Posi-Quiet Ceramic Disc Brake Pads with Shims (1)
105.08760 Posi-Quiet Ceramic Disc Brake Pads with Shims (1)
117.35027 Disc Brake Hardware Rear (1) optional
Total = $327.35 (Shipped in 2 days from California to Kansas)

CRC Disk Brake Quiet - $4.99 USD
Permatex - Threadlocker (RED) - $5.99 USD
VersaChem - Anti-Seize Lubricant - $3.99 USD
Torx Bit Set - $14.99 USD
Brake wear Sensors (2 x $11.99/ea) from Mercedes Benz - $25.00 USD
Total = $54.96

TOTAL PARTS & SUPPLIES COST = $382.31

What you will need:

Floor Jack & Wheel Chucks & Jack Stands
17mm Lug Nut Socket - to remove wheel lug nuts
12mm Wrench or Socket - to remove caliper bolts
18mm Wrench or Socket - to remove caliper housing bracket
Torx bit (9mm i believe) - to remove Torx screw on Rotor
Rubber mallet or Hammer (if you don’t have a rubber mallet)
Caliper clamp or C-Clamp or strong pair of hands
Torque Wrench (If you have one available)
Wire Brush

Step 1 – Remove wheel and place jack stand in proper place for safety.

Step 2 – Remove caliper. Since you are replacing the rotors and pads, I took a flat head screw driver and with a little force placed it in between the old rotor and pad. Push lightly in the opposite direction of the rotor to recess the caliper just slightly to create enough room to remove the caliper. Remove upper and lower caliper bolts (12mm). Remove caliper housing and set onto your second jack stand so the caliper housing is not dangling from your brake lines. A major no no! Remove the existing brake pads and keep them close by. They will come out easily. (They will come in handy later)



Step 3 – Remove upper and lower caliper housing bolts (18mm). Set the caliper housing bracket aside for now.

REAR CALIPER top Bolt


Step 4 – Remove the Torx screw with your Torx bit and socket wrench to free the rotor. Once the screw is removed you will need to use some brute force to remove the rotor. A couple of persuasive whacks on the rotor’s outer edge with the rubber mallet and the rotor will free itself.




Step 5 – Recess the caliper back into the caliper housing using a caliper clamp, c-clamp or your hands (good luck). Be careful to recess the caliper slow and steady or else you risk damaging the master cylinder. If you recess the caliper too quickly it will send too much pressure back through the lines to the master cylinder and possibly cause damage or completely blow out the MC. I decided to keep the existing brake lines and choose not to replace them as they are in good condition. If you are not replacing the lines, there is no need to bleed the fluid out of the lines first.

Step 6 – On the bearing hub, you will want to take your wire brush and clean off the bearing hub from old brake dust and other particles that may be stuck onto the hub. Then, squeeze some of the anti-seize ointment onto your finger and apply a thin layer onto the bearing hub against the bearing plate.

BEFORE CLEANING AND ANTI-SEIZE APPLIED


AFTER CLEANING AND ANTI-SEIZE APPLIED


Step 7 – Put the new rotor onto the hub and replace the Torx screw with the thread-locker gel applied to the Torx screw.



Step 8 – Replace the caliper housing/bracket with thread-locker applied to both 18mm bolts and tighten firmly.

REAR


Step 9 – Put new pads into place with the disk brake quiet ointment applied to the outer backing of the pads. (In the pic above I had yet to apply the ointment just yet) - Also if you forget which pad goes on which side of the rotor, just pick up your old ones you set aside and look at the caliper indention marking and you will know which pad goes where. In Step #5 the caliper should be recessed and you should have enough room to replace the pads.

FRONT PADS- (I apologize for not taking a pic of these steps) Once the caliper housing bracket is back into position (completed in Step #8) both front pads ("banana pads") will fit into place just as you took them out. They will fit into metal grove slots on the caliper housing bracket.

REAR PADS - Once the caliper housing is back into position (completed in Step #8) both pads ("Square Pads") will slide right into the caliper housing via the picture below:

BEFORE



AFTER


REAR PADS


(ONLY APPLIES TO THE RIGHT-FRONT and RIGHT-REAR BRAKES – You will replace the existing Brake wear sensor onto the new pad before you put the pad into the caliper housing bracket)

FRONT:


REAR You will notice that I used the existing pin to hold the disk pad hardware in place. I found that the new pin was longer than the existing pin and would not fit properly. I forgot to take a picture of the difference but I would say the new pin was about 1/4'' longer than the original.


OLD/NEW


REAR You will need to take one extra step on the Right Rear caliper assembly to remove the pin that holds the brake pads and hardware in place. You will need to remove a 8mm bolt that holds the Break wear sensor mount in place. See Pic below:



Step 10 – Replace the caliper housing with the 12mm bolts that you have applied thread-locker to and tighten firmly.

Step 11 – Replace wheel and lug nuts. Once the vehicle is on the ground, take your 17mm socket and apply it to your torque wrench. Per the owner’s manual (I know, of all places to find the recommended torque settings, I found it in the damn manual) set the torque wrench to 80 ft/lbs (53.75 m/kg). Tighten lug nuts.

Step 12 - Start the vehicle and SLOWLY press the brake peddle all the way to the floor and SLOWLY release the brake peddle. Do this a couple of times, then take her out on a test drive! Brakes will feel a little stiff for a few days during normal break-in time.

I hope this simplifies the repair procedure and helps some fellow MB enthusiasts from spending way too much with their local Merc shop. Plus its so much more gratifying when you can fix it yourself.

Thanks!

-Toby

Toby
'04 CLK320

Last edited by Tobes42; 01-09-2012 at 08:33 AM.
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#2 (permalink) Old 01-04-2012, 02:14 PM
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Nice job and write-up Toby! I did this myself (did not replace rotors on the CLK, but have on other cars). You are correct about the price differential. I'd rather keep the $1,000+ dollars as long as I can physically do this type of labor and I hope to be able to do so for at least another 15 years!

Unlike any other.
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#3 (permalink) Old 01-04-2012, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 560sec944 View Post
Nice job and write-up Toby! I did this myself (did not replace rotors on the CLK, but have on other cars). You are correct about the price differential. I'd rather keep the $1,000+ dollars as long as I can physically do this type of labor and I hope to be able to do so for at least another 15 years!
Thanks! I'll update this thread tomorrow with more pictures. It took me 2 hours for both sides....im not kidding either. It is simple. Maybe the mods can throw this thread in the CLK Repair/DIY Sticky thread???

Toby
'04 CLK320
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#4 (permalink) Old 01-04-2012, 08:57 PM
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Those are the same brakes I put on the C240. I know they are Chinese parts, but I have been very pleased with the performance. For the price, if they only last half as long as OEM or name-brand parts, it's still a heck of a deal.

--

- RODNEY
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#5 (permalink) Old 01-05-2012, 07:25 AM
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Thread Updated with more pics! Enjoy!

P.S. I know I likely will not get the full use out of these cross-drilled and slotted rotors. The OEM rotors were only $10.00USD cheaper each than the upgraded rotors that I purchased.....For only $40.00 total to upgrade, heck yes I will!

Toby
'04 CLK320

Last edited by Tobes42; 01-05-2012 at 07:48 AM.
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#6 (permalink) Old 01-05-2012, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Tobes42 View Post
Thread Updated with more pics! Enjoy!

P.S. I know I likely will not get the full use out of these cross-drilled and slotted rotors. The OEM rotors were only $10.00USD cheaper each than the upgraded rotors that I purchased.....For only $40.00 total to upgrade, heck yes I will!
Plus, they look way cooler! My 1979 Porsche 930 had standard drilled rotors - think how radical that was in 1979! They will help stop faster, but you may wear the pads out quicker, but who cares!

Unlike any other.
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#7 (permalink) Old 01-05-2012, 10:52 AM
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That's if you consider cross-drilled rotors an upgrade...but that's a whole-nother topic for another day.
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#8 (permalink) Old 01-08-2012, 05:59 AM
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Exellent write-up. I will use this next time to replace my brakes and rotors, thanks.
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#9 (permalink) Old 01-08-2012, 09:31 AM
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Front

So....how did you replace the front and rear pads?
Great write-up but it seems to only show rotors and wear sensors.
Could be me. Thanx
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#10 (permalink) Old 01-08-2012, 12:53 PM
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Very nice post with excellent photos...

Pads did get a mention from step 9, but there could have been reference to the method of forcing the caliper pistons back far enough to get the new pads in place (they don't just fall in!). And also how to deal with the brake fluid issue here.
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