Amazing...Thanks Franasia!! Anyone tried this yet??

This looks TOO simple. I'm tempted to try it this weekend...a little scared I'll mess something up.

Well has anyone tried this yet?

Thanks for the great PDF!

 

Question

I have easily figured out how to remove the cluster...leery about disconnecting cables.

DO I SIMPLY DISCONNECT THE CABLES? ANY CAUTIONS OR CONCERNS ABOUT HOW TO DO THIS? OF COURSE, CAR OFF AND KEY OUT.

Any further advise appreciated and welcomed.

 

Thanks for your write up. nice work.

I tried it by using a rubber eraser but it didn't work. I'll try your second foam method and hope it will work.

 

More Questions....Related to Removal of Cluster Cables

OK...do you need to disconnect cables in any particular order? ALSO...do you need to disconnect battery? Any danger of buggering up something like speedometer or tach?
I want this fixed, of course, just don't want to make something irritating worse.

Thanks

 

There are only two connectors to unplug

before removing cluster. Absolutely no need to disconnect battery. Just make sure your key is OFF the ignition. Speedometer is electronic, so no speedo cable either.

Hope it helps.

 

hmmmmm? I tried opening the file and I'm getting an error message saying that the file is damaged and cannot be opened. Is anyone else able to open this now?

 

I got it just fine... looking for a mousepad to steal on my way out of the office. This is definitely a project for this weekend.

 

Got it to open on the W210 forum, thanks.

 

Franasia: Are there Error Messages after re-connecting cluster?

I've been searching this subject and am concerned about this. Some have reported either Error messages after reconnecting the cluster and some others have reported losing the even more important center display.

I am so wanting to do this over the weekend. Just a little scared over what I've read.

ANYONE done it yet? Experiences appreciated.

Thanks all

 

I've been searching this subject and am concerned about this. Some have reported either Error messages after reconnecting the cluster and some others have reported losing the even more important center display.

I am so wanting to do this over the weekend. Just a little scared over what I've read.

ANYONE done it yet? Experiences appreciated.

Thanks all

regsatx,

Getting it fixed was a relatively long trial and error process of a few months. During that time I must have pulled the cluster out some twenty times if not more.

Actually, the first thing I ever bought right after buying this car, was the cluster removal tools. Any diy Mercedes owner should have them, even just for the purpose of replacing bulbs and getting familiar with the vehicle. The second one is learning how to remove the glove box to replace cabin filters, but that's another story ...

Rest assured nothing should go wrong - only precaution - have the key off the ignition while disconnecting and reconnecting the cables. There are no warnings or Windows style pop up dialogs, or blue screen of death, lol. Nothing to reset. There is no speedo cable to deal with, just two well engineered connectors.

Also, there is no cosmetic damage or mechanical wear to be caused by pulling the cluster out mulltipe times once you get the hang of it.

Hope it helps

 

Thanks Franasia

I am quite familiar with how to pull the cluster out without any tools. It comes out the same way it does in my 1986 W126 and even in my now sold 1988 R107. Except those cars are not nearly as hi-tech. I will report back after trying this fix...and again,
BIG THANKS TO YOU!

 

Very nice work :thumbsup:. I'll try that this weekend. Thanks!

 

I did it... it works!!!! I had taken the bulb out for the temperature reading out at least two years ago because many pixels were missing... it was annoying to see it like that. It now reads with 100% pixels. The time display is not 100% because a few pixels are faded but I may be going back and playing with it more until I get those working better. Thanks Franasia for your input and DIY instructions. You saved me money from eventually having someone else repair this. Once again, this is a great website for Benz owners!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Pixels now at 100%..... Although it took some patience, here is the result:

 

Finally we found a way to fix this F***ing cluster. Thanks a lot I just did it and it works just great!!!

 

A few days ago, i called the Benz Dealer here in Long Beach, CA, and i got quoted $1,080 on a brand new cluster. That doesn't include labor for putting it on and reprogramming. So i was really really really really lucky and i bought one on EBAY for $300. It's BRAND SPANKIN' NEW! A customer had a Mercedes Parts store order it for him. He paid for it in full, and guess what? THE CUSTOMER NEVER PICKED IT UP! So that same store put it up on ebay for only $300!!!!!!

If there's anyone interested in mine, let me know. I'll let it go for $150 shipped.

The ONLY PROBLEM is the pixels in the clock. It's in mint condition, no scratches, absolutely no damage.

Let me know guys. Thanks.

 

I'm confused...it's new, but it has pixels out? There are other clusters with pixels out for less than $150 on eBay. You might want to clarify or I doubt you'll get any buyers. Good luck.

 

I did it and it worked! I was even able to pull the instrument cluster out without any tool, just use all your fingers to grap on the side and gradually pull it out each side at a time.

 

Congrats Camnick13, another success story! And you're right, you can just pull the instrument cluster out by hand. I generally begin by extending my steering wheel out all the way, then pulling on the instrument cluster fom the bottom lip until I can grab the edges and then completely pull out the cluster. I've pulled this thing out so many times before, not only to attempt to fix the pixels, but other times to replace a light bulb, that the tabs behind the cluster would no longer hold and tighten the cluster. I found a tape that will hold in place without stretching under pressure which I used for the the back panel of the cluster but also to secure the pixel repair in place... it's refrigerant tape, the aluminum looking rolls that is also used AC ducts. It's very strong and will not stretch once you get the pixels to light up just right (I cut strips of this tape to secure the pixel repair).

I can't believe that someone came out with a fix for this! I even started a complaint about this issue last year with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration to see if a recall would be issue and posted the information on this forum.

 

IMO. This should be a sticky.

 

Sweet im gonna try this probably tomorrow.

I've never pulled out the instrument panel, i hope its as easy as you guys have explained it. Cause it was a bitch on my 190e i never finished that ODO and lighting has been non fuctional.

 

Well allow me to post the first failure ... though I haven't given up yet.

I have a full temp display, and a lot more of my clock and if I push in just the right places I can get the full clock.

But... once I snap on the back two peculiar things happen that don't happen while the unit is completely apart.

1) My gas needle gets sticky, sometimes it moves, sometimes it doesn't, and often it makes a not so nice clicking noise.
2) When I turn on the headlights the low gas light and whatever that little circle light next to it both light up.


I'm thinking the shim I used is too dense and too thin, I should've tried something with a little more give and a little more thickness, so I'm going to try that this weekend... only have to drive about 20 miles between now and then so hopefully that clicking noise isn't going to cause anything to get worse.

 

Skiflyer... the guages did a similar thing when I reconnected. It should adjust itself. You may need to disconnect and reconnect the two plugs in the back as I did to get the guages to set properly. As far as the loss of pixels the only thing that worked for me was cutting strips of that aluminum AC duct tape and placing them where I found just the right pressure points.

I had to do this even with the back panel of the cluster because I would get all the pixels working while the cluster was out and then when I would start pushing the cluster back in place I would loose some pixels. I then used the same tape to secure pressure on the back cover of the instrument cluster. It's trial and error but worth the satisfaction when done!

 

well the thing is, I was hooking up the cables while I had the front and back removed and the gauge was fine, then I'd snap on the back and it'd go haywire... then I'd take it off and try again, gauge was fine. So I'm not sure what's up... but I'll put some miles on and see what happens.

Much more concerned about the extra lights that are on right now though.

I'll try the duct tape, because that's exactly what I'm seeing. I'm also considering figuring out exactly how to remove the entire circuit board so I can really get in there and play with the pressure points. I started at 10pm last night... this time I'll wait til I have a few hours to play around with all the details.

Oh... and in the true DIY fashion... my toolset was, a parker stainless steel jotter pen, two steak knives, a pair of scisors, and a mouse pad.

 

Did it Today with Limited Success!

First of all, HUGE props to Franasia for his fantastic pictorial! I just spend about 4 hours on this. I had the cluster out and separated from its shell and the shims in (I started with a mouse pad) within half an hour. Then...the trouble began.

I took the disassembled cluster to the car and plugged in cables. I had the clock fully displayed, but broken digits on the temp side. That's where the "trial and error" began. I ended up leaving the mouse pad shim in place on the clock side, but ended up using some foam, a rather thick piece, on the temp side. I'm posting pics of results.

By the way...that kinda broken temp reading is correct here in south Texas today. It's F**KIN' HOT. I will revisit this repair in the fall. But I am HAPPY with the limited success. I no longer have any fear of working on this cluster.

Thanks again Franasia!

 

Two Hours Later...F**KED Up Again!

Well...after a couple of hours...back to more of the same...PLUS notice how the needles for speedometer and tach are hanging below the zero? BOTH give incorrect readings while driving or idling. I AM SICK OVER THIS...SHOULD HAVE LEFT WELL ENOUGH ALONE!

Anyone know if these will re-set or a way to re-set them. I'd rather have my tach and speedo working than these stupid pixelated numbers. Anyone with any info on this problem please reply.

Thanks

 

Well...after a couple of hours...back to more of the same...PLUS notice how the needles for speedometer and tach are hanging below the zero? BOTH give incorrect readings while driving or idling. I AM SICK OVER THIS...SHOULD HAVE LEFT WELL ENOUGH ALONE!

Anyone know if these will re-set or a way to re-set them. I'd rather have my tach and speedo working than these stupid pixelated numbers. Anyone with any info on this problem please reply.

Thanks

Wow, that really sucks...I've never seen that before - sorry to hear about it. There are places that fix these clusters so you might want to go that route if no one else knows what's up. Do a search and you'll see what I'm talking about. Good luck.

 

regsatx... I'm not sure if it'll work for you, but my needles had also moved out of position (temp, fuel and rpm) and I manually moved them until they were set properly. Perhaps while the car is off you can set the needles the zero positions and then they will adjust... or while car is on (if necessary) only if you know where they should read. The only one that did not adjust properly on my cluster was the temp which reads about 60 degrees when it normally read about 80 degrees before. No big deal... since I know that and can compensate for that reading if it starts to climb. I'm sure I could have gone back and adjusted that needle but I had the pixels at 100% read that I did'nt want to open the cluster and start all over again.