Idler Pulley Bearing replacement - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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Old 11-25-2007, 11:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Idler Pulley Bearing replacement

The bearing on the idler pulley (top pulley on passenger side) feel apart then causing the belt to tear up. I bought a new belt but obviously need to replace the bearing as well. I tried to remove the bolt in the front of the pulley that holds the bearing but cannot pull the bolt completely out since the back of the radiator is in the way. Has anyone replaced this before and if so do you have any DIY advise? Thanks.
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Old 11-25-2007, 02:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Answered my own question. I was able to pull (maneuver) the fan shroud out without removing the fan, pull the (front) plastic dual fan grill cover out (with metal body molding attached to it) and then push the radiator forward enough to allow the idle bolt to be pulled out clearing the radiator. Now I'll have to wait until tomorrow to pick up a new pulley, since today is Sunday, and then put her back together. Belt bought for $40.00, pulley at dealer should be around $50.00 - 60.00.
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Old 11-25-2007, 02:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The Mercedes-Benz service DVD says the fan and the fan shroud both have to be removed. Are you saying the tensioner bolts don't clear the radiator with the shroud out of the way?
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Old 11-25-2007, 02:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Whoops! You were fixing it while I was looking it up. Want to post any photos? Maybe a write-up? Thanks
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Old 11-25-2007, 08:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I believe this was a MB recall issue. No?
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Old 11-26-2007, 02:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You're correct, there was a similar recall but my CLK had the correct part installed during manufacturing. It was the harmonic balancer that was recalled not the idler pulley. When I get home to put everything back together I'll take some pics and post them tomorrow. The idler puller was only $19.50 at the dealer. I was actually able to remove the idler pulley bolt by removing the shroud and pushing the radiator forward a bit. Otherwise, correct, the bolt would not clear the radiator. I actually had the belt in place without removing anything when I noticed a pulley was gone. I found the remnants laying on the plastic cover under the engine (bearings, plastic pieces, metal rings and of course what was left of my belt!).

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Old 11-27-2007, 12:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Installation pics.
Attached Thumbnails
Idler Pulley Bearing replacement-clk-pulley-004.jpg   Idler Pulley Bearing replacement-clk-pulley-002.jpg   Idler Pulley Bearing replacement-clk-pulley-001.jpg   Idler Pulley Bearing replacement-clk-pulley-005.jpg   Idler Pulley Bearing replacement-clk-pulley-006.jpg  

Idler Pulley Bearing replacement-clk-pulley-007.jpg   Idler Pulley Bearing replacement-clk-pulley-010.jpg   Idler Pulley Bearing replacement-clk-pulley-009.jpg  
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Old 11-27-2007, 07:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hey People ,

I have a 91 300te and I need to know what size nut/bolt the Idler Pulley is held in with ..any ideas?
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Old 12-28-2011, 02:52 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Question

This is a very old post, but hopefully you still monitor. How do you take the plastic bolt cover off? I want to be sure before I destroy it. Is it just a snap on fit? What size was the bolt for the pulley? Size of the bolt for the belt tensioner?
Thanks in advance, John
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Old 12-28-2011, 03:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unlukky View Post
This is a very old post, but hopefully you still monitor. How do you take the plastic bolt cover off? I want to be sure before I destroy it. Is it just a snap on fit? What size was the bolt for the pulley? Size of the bolt for the belt tensioner?
Thanks in advance, John
It just snaps off, little friction ears hold it in place. I did a DIY for it that is at Benz Obsession, as noted there I used the side of the knife blade on my mini-Leatherman. It's on the M112 so no other parts need to be removed, not even the belt, really, you have more to do with the V8 M113. But here is the DIY, there are some other pics as well that show the hidden damage before the failure. Definitely something that should be done by 80 or 90 thousand miles, particularly given how inexpensive the part is.

The bolt is a T-50 Torx.

Good luck.
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