A pantload of error codes in my W208 430CLK, model year 2000.
These error codes pop us every few weeks or so, then they go away. Sometimes I get an additional code something like "faulty rear light", and I have notice that my brake lights don't come on when the extra code light up. Then, shortly, all these codes go away, and everything seems normal, for a while. These seem like just ghost codes to me.
Asking for help with a few questions:
1. What gives with these codes ?
2. Can anyone recommend a nice cheap code reader/clearer for my ride ?
3. I that an OBD-2 type connector ?
Thanking you in advance.
PS. Please see the link below for the trouble codes
A pantload of error codes in my W208 430CLK, model year 2000.
These error codes pop us every few weeks or so, then they go away. Sometimes I get an additional code something like "faulty rear light", and I have notice that my brake lights don't come on when the extra code light up. Then, shortly, all these codes go away, and everything seems normal, for a while. These seem like just ghost codes to me.
Asking for help with a few questions:
1. What gives with these codes ?
2. Can anyone recommend a nice cheap code reader/clearer for my ride ?
3. I that an OBD-2 type connector ?
Thanking you in advance.
PS. Please see the link below for the trouble codes
Now I can't be sure, but those error codes (messages) are indicative of some kind of brake pedal switch going/gone bad. I can't remember for the life of me where that thing is but search around this forum and, uh, the 'other' one (mbworld.org). I know somebody has had this issue but I can't remember who.
I've heard those readers can be picked up off of eBay for around $50-60.
Vehicle: ML CLK GoPed Freightshaker & Volvo semi's, c'mawn?
Location: Chicago
Posts: 20,102
In the case of lighting codes, sometimes corrosion will form in the socket and cause it to throw a fault. Just wiggle them around a bit, nothing major. I got a really nice reader at Pep Boys for around $160.
As far as the codes in your linky, if the car is running smooth, I would venture to guess that you have 1 or more faulty sensors(not uncommon) I pulled the same faults with a bad wheel sensor. A handheld won't do you much good unfortunately but search in your area, I found a garage with a full Star Diagnosis system who charges me only $40 for a complete readout.
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Tell me a bit about the wheel sensor. I was thinking maybe the pad sensors might be sending a bad signal or something. I bought this vehicle new, and I have done my own brakes for about 3 sets on this vehicle. I always replace the sensors re. the front pad wear ($8 each). Only the front calipers have these--none in the rear.
Are these the sensors you are talking about, or are there some other wheel sensors ?
If others, then where might they be ?
Also, since MB makes it impossible to get shop manuals for their vehicles, what/where is a good alternate manual ?
Vehicle: ML CLK GoPed Freightshaker & Volvo semi's, c'mawn?
Location: Chicago
Posts: 20,102
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pancho
Tell me a bit about the wheel sensor. I was thinking maybe the pad sensors might be sending a bad signal or something. I bought this vehicle new, and I have done my own brakes for about 3 sets on this vehicle. I always replace the sensors re. the front pad wear ($8 each). Only the front calipers have these--none in the rear.
Are these the sensors you are talking about, or are there some other wheel sensors ?
If others, then where might they be ?
Also, since MB makes it impossible to get shop manuals for their vehicles, what/where is a good alternate manual ?
Thanks
No, those would not throw ABS warnings. The wheel sensors detect your speed and revolutions of the wheel itself. A faulty one would(could) set off all the warnings BAS ABS ESP. However working on your brakes, you may have disrupted them. Mine went bad immediately after I had it lowered and I assume the guys must have hit it by accident.
Another likely possibility (And much cheaper) is the stop lamp switch. Do a search for it here. It would also give you those warnings and like you mentioned, they would come and go as the switch continues to deteriorate. That's a $20 do-it-yourself fix.
Will swing by dealer tomorrow and pick up a brake light switch.
Will also fiddle with rear bulbs re. corrosion, lose, etc.
Re. Scanner/reader/clearer:
This seller's auction lists a scanner for the clk55 and clk320.
He emailed me back that it works with the clk430.
Questions:
1. Is this the sort or scanner that I can use to clear the brake codes we've been talking about ?
2. Is this the sort of scanner that would be helpful, or do I need to spend the big bucks and get some fancier do-dad ?
3. Does this reset system after I do an oil change.
Vehicle: ML CLK GoPed Freightshaker & Volvo semi's, c'mawn?
Location: Chicago
Posts: 20,102
"Products will be shipped from Shanghai China up to 2 days after we receive payment."
I wouldn't waste my money on that. OBD II codes are universal, how that seller can pinpoint CLK propriety is beyond me. I bought an Actron, certainly not the best, but sufficient for my needs.
Actron components are made in China, assembled in US, and $50 more, which is a 125% gouge for a product with identical features. It's too much for too little.
Thanks for the info, but this time I'll keep $50 in my pocket, send $28 to China, and forgo US "assembly" of Chinese components. I wouldn't be the least bit suprised to learn that the "assembly" is done by illegal aliens and requires putting the item in bubble wrap. Acton does sell some loftier code products, but short of the orange paint and logo, their reader is an identical twin to the ebay item.
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