Greetings all. First-time poster, long-time reader.
After doing my homework for a couple of years, I'm set to have a local (Orlando) shop install the full Kleemann suspension (4 springs, 4 shocks) on my '02 CLK 55 coupe this Thursday. To combat excessive negative camber, I'll be using M-B's correction bolts in the front (for now) and House of Power's adjustable upper control arms in the rear.
My last remaining X-factor, of course, are the spring pads. My goal, like most of you, is to have a nice, 1.00" to 1.50" drop like linh's (beautiful job), with even fender gaps front and rear. From what I've read about HoP's links, though, I'll need to compensate (with a thicker pad) for the greater drop in the rear.
Concerning wheels and tires, I'm running 225/40 & 255/35 on 18-inch AMG Monoblocks.
So, what are your suggestions regarding what pads to try the first time around? What do you think... a #2 pad in front and a #4 pad in rear? Obviously, I'm trying to minimize the labor cost, so any input would be appreciated.
Ultimately, something tells me it's going to boil down to trial and error. When all is said and done, I'll let you know which pads gave me the result I'm looking for.
Vehicle: ML CLK GoPed and a coupla Volvo semi's, c'mawn?
Location: Chicago
Posts: 19,704
RE: Kleemann suspension install
Welcome to Benzworld:
I'm not sure if anyone has the Kleemann setup here, but your absolutely right, having the right materials will definately reduce costs. Make sure they get the front correct. You can always redo the rear(change bushings) yourself as it's a lot easier than the front. I used Eibach with #1 pad on front and stock on rear, with oem shocks on 19's. My mechanic was able to pop out the stock springs without removing the control arms thereby reducing camber and alignment issues. I've been rolling 10k miles without any noticable wear (gonna post pics). bear in mind with a 320 I have less front end weight than you so you might want to go with #2 but at $10 a pair, you might as well pick up as many as you can at the dealer and return what you don't need. Good Luck and post pics when your done.
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-Pointless liar and inventor of the Bizzy Buzz Buzz.
I dont know about the Kleemann drop but I am just finishing up with the lowering of my 02 55 with H&R's, have an alignment scheduled on thursday. The kit I got is the new kit offered by H&R for the 55, the only difference from the old kit is that the drop on the new kit is 1.0" front and 1.0" rear. The old kit was 1.0" front and 0.9" in the rear. My car came stock with #2 pads in the rear and #4 in the front. I tried that but the #2 pad for the rear was wwwwwaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyy to low. I then took measurements front and rear and looked at the different thickness of the pads and ordered #4's. Well wouldnt ya know it that made it a little to high in the back, not much but a little. So I order #3's for both the front and the rear just in case. I put the #3's in both and now they both are pretty low. The front has about a finger and a half gap if that and the rear is about the same. I am a little concerned about rubbing now on hard turns or larger bumps so I may switch back to the 4's. I figured I would see what happen's after the alignment as to were it settles down at. Actually the "4's looked pretty good, with the 19's it gave the car the "Just Right" look. With the 3's installed the car has more of the Slammed look. I am also using a full KMAC kit front and rear, the kit replaces both of the front inner control arm bushings and also replaces the rear inner control arm bushings and the existing factory rear toe adjustment bushings. The fronts look like they give you a ton of adjustment, so i dont think there should be an issue there but the back doesnt seem as much. Rember unlike the speedybenz or HOP kit the KMAC kit gives you the ability to pull the bottom of the wheel back in as opposed to the others push the top out. I think this is a better way of doing it but I dont know if it will be enough. My goal is to have a car that is alignment perfect and if the rear KMAC kit doesnt offer enough I will also install either the speedybenz or HOP kit for even more adjustability. One thing I will say is if you do get the KMAC kit have someone do it if you dont have ALL the proper tools. You will deffinatly need a press to remove ALL the bushings and a puller to remove the front control arms. The fronts are a given but the tool they supply for the rears isnt worth a crap. I will post a follow up with pics after all is said and done and will be happy to offer any advice needed seeing that I did the whole job myself.
To make sure the shop has everything they could possibly need from me, I did go ahead and order four sets of #1-#4 spring pads. It probably wasn't necessary to order additional sets of the #4 (front) and #2 (rear) pads since that's what's already on the car (according to the M-B parts computers), but Thrill's right. Given the cost of the pads versus the hourly shop rate and the time my car is out of my hands, I'd rather the installers have them and not need them than need them and not have them. While I may have to pay a re-stocking fee to the dealership, at least I can return the ones I don't use and recoup most of my money.
bsutton, thanks for sharing your experience. Since the "Just Right" look is the one I'm going for, I'll definitely start with the #4 pad in the rear. From reading your post, it looks you're going with the same pad thickness in both the front and rear. Since you also have a 55 (meaning we have the same weight up front), are you getting even fender gaps (top of the tire to the bottom of the fender) in both the front and rear? After everything I've read, I figured I would have to go down at least one pad thickness in front to get even gaps.
I guess I'm the only one that likes the "slammed" look. My front tires tuck under the fender and I like it alot! When I get the camber kit I will lower the rear more to match the front
So... the car went in this morning, and I got a call around 4:30 this afternoon that the Kleemann springs and shocks, along with the HoP adjustable links, were installed. The car, with its new ride height, was awaiting my inspection prior to the alignment, which is scheduled for tomorrow pending my approval. Upon arriving and giving the car a good, long look, I realized the front was too low (for me), and the back was sitting a little too high.
"Not to worry," I thought. "Different springs pads will fix this in a heartbeat."
Then the mechanic - a guy in his late twenties who I like because he communicates well and seems to know his stuff - told me he left the stock pads in place. Meaning the #4 pads in front and the #2 pads in rear.
"Crap" was my next thought, at least where the front is concerned. The rear can obviously be adjusted.
Now, before you get ahead of me, let me say a few things:
YES, the car has been driven to initially seat and settle the springs and pads.
YES, I realize the spings may settle even more in the next couple of weeks.
YES, I realize the alignment hasn't been done yet, and when performed, the fender gaps will change, even if it's ever so slightly.
But how much change can I expect? In the front? And the rear? I know the car is running excessive negative camber right now (a blind man could see it), and when the camber is dialed back, the wheels will sit more upright and the fender gaps - or the perceived gaps - will grow. Because of the HoP adjustable links, the back is supposed to actually settle down a little.
I've been told the alignment may give me an additional eighth of an inch gap in the front, but what I'd like is another quarter to three-eighths of an inch. When lowering your cars, did any of you get this kind of adjustment after doing your alignments? Or am I going to have to come up with another method to slightly raise the front end of my car?
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2002 CLK 55 AMG
Silver w/ Black interior
Hoen xenonmatch H6W city lights
Hoen xenonmatch H3 fog lights
18x8 & 18x9 AMG Monoblocks
225/40-ZR18 & 255/35-ZR18
Dunlop Sport SP 9000
Valentine One hardwired
I do have even gaps front and rear. Remember though that my kit gives an even drop front and rear. Most kits give a little less drop in the rear so a #3 would probly be needed to get things even. Again, these pads are the biggest pain in the ass of the whole deal. I'm still waiting to get it aligned, the mechanic that was going to do it for me is missing in action so I am going to have to take it to a different shop if I dont hear from him. I'll tell ya one thing, I'm sick of looking at my car and not being able to drive it and now I have to go out of town for a week. O'well I guess good things come to those who wait, it does suck though![:)]
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