I've made a bunch of DIY videos for the C Class to try to de-mystify working on these cars. They're no big deal and you can improvise in most cases so you don't need all the MB special tools. I do a better job at looking after my C Class than a business where it's just Job # XYZ.
I'm a retired Civil Engineer so I'm not a complete idiot ... although my wife may have a different view.
How to remove and install the COMAND scrolling knob.
How to repair the COMAND scrolling knob as the internal shaft breaks at four years ... better than paying a small fortune for a new one.
Removing the COMAND head unit
Removing the flip out screen
Back up camera installation
Removing the overhead console
Oil+Filter change using an extractor pump
Also an epic video of recovery from ORIF ankle surgery on my shattered distal Tibia. Could be helpful if you ever badly break your ankle and need plates and screws to put it back together. The Surgeons tell you very little so you're left in the dark a lot of time not knowing what's ahead. I've laid out the various stages so you'll have some insight. Ankle fractures are very common if your an active person.
Looks awesome! Thank you for your time in make these videos. I'm sure to look at them when I need do something.
Really looking forward to fixing COMAND knob to work and installing rear-view camera. I'm really wondering about wiring and how to remove the whole unit itself.
Thanks for your kind words. I've been making these vids for about a year since giving away the construction game. I've always had a strong mechanical bent so I enjoy doing them as a hobby. Also it's a way to use the right side of my brain as I have to be a little creative. Makes a change from hard core engineering stuff with numbers, spread sheets, calculations etc.
I also hate seeing people get ripped off. There's so much misinformation, smoke, mirrors and spin these days it drives me nuts. Once the fancy clothes come off these cars they're not much different to any other rear wheel drive car. I'm convinced that as a Mercedes owner you will look after your car far better (and save yourself a truck load of cash) if you're prepared to get a decent tool kit and some basic equipment like a compressor, trolley jack, axle stands etc and just take your time and work logically through the processes.
I'll keep making vids as things come up that need doing. Share the knowledge is the name of the game. Knowledge empowers us all to question when we're being fed BS from some clown behind a counter.
I was hoping it wouldn't be noticed! I feel embarrassed wearing thongs but it's because I'm recovering from surgery on my right ankle after badly fracturing the end of my Tibia.
Normally I'd be wearing decent footwear when working on the car as it's a safety issue but it's been too uncomfortable. The ankle would swell like crazy. I've got a 150mm long buttress plate and 9 screws holding it all together.
Congrats on great videos Scotty, from a fellow Aussie, Sydney-sider though.
I have a 2010 Mercedes-Benz C200 CGI BlueEfficiency car and this is the first time I'm looking for How to info on the internet, having stumbled upon this site. I'm still to find battery replacement and terminals info. Any links or pointers to the above model specifically would be appreciated.
Cheers, Pat
I'm sure Exide and Century make batteries suitable for your C200CGI. If you go to their websites they have a "battery finder". I've just used an Exide to replace the battery in my Mercedes Vito.
I'd think your C200 will take either the DIN66 or DIN88 if you buy Exide. You may also be able to upgrade to a larger battery by removing a bracket from the battery box in the boot. MB's usually have big batteries because of all the electrics.
Run a tape measure over your current battery. Both websites give the dimensions of their various model batteries. Plus the MB terminals are standard sizes so you don't need an expensive MB branded battery.
I have a friend with an 2006 ML63 and he asked the dealer to replace the battery while it was being serviced thinking a battery is a battery. He nearly had a heart attack when presented with the invoice as the battery was over $600.
He could have got the same rated battery from Century or Exide for about $250.
Thanks Scott for those videos. I'm also doing my own maintenance (BMW, Porsche) but I'm new in the MB world. Became car hypochondriac after reading the Mercedes forums and was not too impress with the quality and issues related to my C350 2010 + the stealership here in Montreal are simply useless and dishonest….Got my first job about 3 weeks ago replacing the over engineered thermostat but this was an easy job….With guys like you I feel more comfortable to tackle problems I can have in the future…Good to know there is help out there! Thanks, J.P.
Thanks again Scott.
I'm pretty novice with car repairs however keen on trying DIY.
Where do I find the battery in W204, is it not under the bonnet? There is a red square plastic sliding piece providing access to a vertical flat terminal for battery +ve. I used that once some months ago to charge the battery.
The battery is in the spare wheel compartment. Charging a battery with it hooked up to the car is fraught with danger. Untold expensive misery can be done to the electronics if it is done that way
I decided to DIY the transmission fluid/filter change this weekend based on your video which really cleared up questions..
All went well enough but I held off putting in shell 134 (red) as my 2011c300 luxury had dark blue/green fluid with a green overflow tube compared to the white (longer) one that came with the filter..
So question is 236.14 or 236.15 and white or green overflow...?
Thanks Scott, i've used your videos to remove my lcd display.
Im still having the problem after buying a new lcd display, i can see it work and turn on, but no lighting. I've read several info on now looking to replace the display command board (the unit that connects to the lcd display screen). What are your thoughts? have you heard of this?
Im going crazy trying to find someone to sell me the lcd unit witout the whole retractable unit, but havent had any luck.
Thankyou so much for your videos. They are very helpful. I have used them to help me pressure bleed my brakes,I had always used the old pedal pushing method in the past,but after seeing your vid I decided to get a pressure bleeder,,,it works very well.
Love your garage set up,very well equipped and organised.
Thanks again.
Thanks for your comments. Happy to help out. I always believe no one will do a better job on their car than you. If you take your time and have appropriate tools you'll do it with care.
Scott your contributions are excellent. Been contemplating the transmission fluid change ... struck me why no one has come up with a fluid level pipe for 72deg F ?? or there abouts. This wacky number picked out of thin air is interesting. Thanks PS... :bowdown:
I've written two letters with photos to MB Australia about this potentially dangerous safety problem and have had absolutely no response. Very poor form I think. It's been 6 weeks since writing to them.
Using Xentry/DAS in developer mode to unlock some hidden power by changing the torque limit and throttle pedal characteristics. 5 minutes in DAS changing s few settings knocked 0.5 seconds off the 0-60mph time!
Thanks mate for your kind comments. I do have a copy of the WIS (Workshop Information System) and sometimes refer to that for starters. But my main MO is to look for alternative ways and improvising in particular. 95% of the time you won't need special tools as you can make them yourself ... coat hangers are always a good source for special tools!
The tail lights look good. Before you buy the DRL's I'm part the way through fitting Angel Eye DRL's to my C320CDI and they look awesome ... well I think they do. $10 per headlight would you believe? I'll have the video up next week. Have a look at the photo below and give me some feedback.
Don't worry it's easy. It's achievable 'cos I've done it! My lights are Bi-Xenon which is marketing speak for HID in the main projector. It just means they have the solenoid operated flap that truncates the beam when on low beam and pulls the flap out of the way to expose the full aperture on high beam.
I've retrofitted "Bi-Xenon" projectors into my Vito headlamps. $25 for the pair. Just as good as the Mercedes projectors ... no different really.
You buy the Angel eye rings for about $12 a pair on eBay out of HK. I've got 90mm on the projector and 76mm on the high beam. It's a separate wiring connection to a 12V ignition source so they're on whenever the car is running.
All will be revealed when the video is done. Some may not like it as the BMW's have them ... but I'm not worried. They're 6000k bright white and are a good safety feature.
My C320CDI seems to sit right on 84C no matter what the conditions. Maybe your thermostat is sticking a bit.
Yes I get immense satisfaction doing these things myself not to mention saving a truck load of cash. I'm concerned I may be on an MB blacklist!
I've written to them twice about the faulty earth lead on the RHS rear tail light and they don't have the decency to reply. Check you RHS taillight to make sure the connector isn't melting.
- Tail light earth lead modification to fix a design fault ... prevent your car going up in flames!
- upgrade your high beam to HID.
- How to remove/change your fog light bulbs and remove the fog light.
- Using DAS/Xentry to unlock some hidden power. 10 minutes work at the most.
- How to remove and install your headlight unit.
- Retrofitting angel eye/halos into your standard headlights to use as DRL's.
Here's a very simple modification I did to my rear sway bar. I stiffened it by changing the pivot point. A no cost mod.
If you stiffen the rear sway bar it tends to alleviate understeer and promote oversteer. Most cars are set up to understeer. As I like to take my car to the small training track at the international airport where you can do "tuning sessions" ... aka ... give you car a decent thrash on a closed circuit and get it out of your system session ... I prefer the front to stick and the rear to move.
I'm not recommending anyone do this. It's just demonstrating what can be done if you want to set your car up for the occasional track day. You don't need to go spending a fortune on coil overs and bigger sway bars etc.
Don't touch the centre adjuster, adjust at the wheels, its very easy, all you need is a flashlight and a flat head screwdriver.
Remove Wheel
Use your light to find the adjuster sprocket
Tighten the sprocket hard with the screwdriver until you can´t move the rotor
Loosen sprocket about half a turn
Turn the rotor to check if it turns freely.
These CREE Projector driving/spot lights are quite amazing for the cost. You don't need to spend a fortune. About $20 delivered. You can put them in place of the high beam bulbs. They only use 12W and are solid bits of gear. About 1200 lumen and throw a spot beam in a rectangular pattern about 200m. Crisp white 6000k colour temperature.
How to video:
This is what I bought and installed into the LH high beam reflector:
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