Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

Howdy, I'm a newbie haha :) I require advice at your earliest convenience.

5K views 58 replies 6 participants last post by  alecmascot 
#1 ·
Hello fellow Mercedes owners and enthusiasts,

I recently purchased my first ever Mercedes Benz at auction in the form of a beautiful silver 2005 MY06 C200K classic 1.8 Supercharged 5 speed Auto with 235,000 klm's showing.

Upon picking it up it drove wonderfully and I was ecstatic with it despite it having the CEL on. I am familiar somewhat with the amount of sensors and possible reasons for these lights showing up so I took a gamble and purchased it.

All was great until I allowed my brother in law to take it around the block for a "test drive" after which the car started going into some kind of presumed "safe mode" when driving.

This was basically the feeling of running on 2 cylinders until I pulled over, turned the car off and then back on. It would resume normal driving for a few moments before reverting to this cut out cylinder version. I read possibly on this very forum that if the ECU detected a misfire it would shut down fuel delivery to the offending cylinder? So I took it to a parts store called Super Cheap Auto who offer a scanning service for $28.00. I was told the machine he used cost over $7000 but i soon became aware that the user had no idea what he was doing.

I received 5 pages of repetitive codes including "Roof operating unit 2.1" My car does not have a sunroof nor is it convertible so that baffled me. Other codes reported that many things were under voltage.
others were -
*Misfire detection - Cylinder 1
*84 Camshaft timing - Open Circuit
*11 Camshaft position sensor - Inlet: No Signal
*35 Intake manifold pressure sensor -Open Circuit/Positive Short
*20 Boost Pressure -Too High


I took my car home with the 5 page report and a new set of spark plugs and changed them out. It continued to start well, idle well but also engage in "safe mode".
I then spent a lot of time reading on this forum and decided that as Misfire in Cylinder 1 was a likely scenario I would change the coil pack which I did.
After a few days it then only drove in that "cylinder cut out mode" which allowed me to still drive locally if completely necessary but finally it idled roughly upon start up and stalled when placed in gear. Several attempts at re-starting failed so I had it towed home where it remains unable to start.

As I mentioned on another post, makes a loud high pitch whirring sound from somewhere around the battery side of the engine but lower when ignition is in second position (all lights on dash).
I can also hear a puffing sound from the engine when I try to turn it over.

I finally received a OBD2 scanner I purchased on ebay for $30 and I got these codes P0238, P0010P and P0238P

I almost forgot, Yesterday I checked the oil and it was extremely low. Only a drop on the very bottom of the dipstick. No oil light came on when driving which I found unusual. I went and purchased Mobil 1 0w-40 and topped it up as I saw recommended on this forum.

Could the lack of oil have something to do with the misfiring and inability to start?

I feel like it won't be a major issue because it went from running like a dream to this so fast.

Any help towards getting this beautiful car running again would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks

Jake
 
See less See more
#3 ·
P0238 can be a problem with the pressure sensor, the altitude sensor, or the recirculated air flap on the supercharger. I suspect this is the cause of the performance problems. The other issues may be oil in the wiring harness (see the sticky at the top of the forum).
 
#4 ·
Thanks for replying Rudeney,

So you don't think I should change my Cam sensors as per the code?

It's dark here now but in the morning I will certainly check for any oil on the wiring to the cam sensors.

After reading so many posts that you have offered your expertise I truly appreciate your advice.

Is there a few tests/checks I should do to eliminate or confirm your suspicions with my Supercharger?

Many thanks

Jake
 
#7 ·
Hi Hutch,
Just got the time to get back to it now.

How will I know if the extensions have been put on already?

It's very clean from what I can see. I will try and take so photo's.

I just unscrewed the cover for the Air filter and it's filthy, their is a date of 07/14 when presummably it was changed.

Rodney, thanks again, I read several supercharger posts and that led me to inspect the air filter and now I'm off to buy some MAF sensor cleaner and see if that does anything.

I'll post back soon.
Many thanks guys! :grin
 
#9 ·
Hi Jake, The extensions are about 6 inches long and are probably cable tied to the posts that the front Engine Cover slot into. They almost look like they shouldn't be there. You can't miss them. The Cam sensor magnets are an easy fix too, there's even a YouTube video , though I think the job's pretty intuitive.
 
#10 ·
Thanks Heaps Benzyle and Hutcho,

I definitely do not have those extensions and still can not find any oil in the existing wiring. Where would the oil in the wiring be emanating from? Would it be from the cam magnets themselves?

I just found my old Multi meter so I'm going to try and find a post with the how to test the cam magnets and the wiring values. unless you guys know them off the top of your heads? lol

Cheers
 
#11 ·
Do not confuse the cam position sensors with the cam magnets on the front of the engine.
It's the cam magnets that can leak oil into the harness. If you pull the plugs you can see if there is any oil in them.
Don't worry about external minor leaks from them, that is not the problem.
I assume you have cleared all the codes and then driven the car to see which ones come up ?
 
#12 ·
Hi Alec,

Definitely looking at the the cam magnets on the front of the engine but not leaks either in the wiring nor out of the front of the magnets at all. I'm not sure where the CPS is located, I think I read it is on the block near the gearbox.

I have cleared the codes but unfortunately I have still not been able to start the car at all since I had it towed home.

It's a real pain that I don't have drive way or a garage so I'm doing everything on a narrow busy street out front of my house.

Keen to get this going again as it is my only car.
 
#13 ·
CPS is easy to spot. As you look at the engine on the Right Hand Side adjacent to the air intake/throttle body, you'll see a large plug on top of what looks like your standard Hard Disc Drive. It has a locking mechanism which you slide forward and then up which releases the plug and you can inspect there for Oil etc.

To be honest it doesn't sound like your problem though. It will no doubt be something simple, but when it's simple it's hard to find. Look for cracks and splits in Air Hoses, etc.
 
#14 ·
Cheers Hutcho,

It's annoying but i'm learning so much hahaha.

I opened the plugs (HDD looking ones) and all seemed clean and fine.

I just this moment found this video on Youtube and it sounds exactly the same as my car when I try and start it. Doesn't sound like its cranking but is turning over.



unfortunately the guy didn't post what the solution was.

I hope this helps anyone in diagnosing my issue.

Thanks again!
 
#15 ·
The P0010 code is often associated with the well known timing change issue on the M271 engine.
It is possible that you have jumped a tooth on the timing chain.
There are lots of videos on youtube about this.
You need to remove the cam cover and check the timing marks on the cams with the crank at TDC.
I would do this first as it is the worst case scenario. If the timing is good and the sprockets are not worn then anything else is just going to be a sensor or something like that.
 
#19 ·
When I listen to the vid and you say the plugs are wet, it sounds like there is no compression.
Be brave and pull the cam cover.... :))
Have a gasket on hand in case everything is ok and you can put it back together.
There are some good deals on ebay at the moment for sprockets and chains for about £500.
 
#20 ·
Hi Alec,

Thanks for replying, I totally need the support, I feel like I am swimming in deep water here by myself.

I am just about to take your advice and pull the cam cover this morning. I don't have a gasket yet however I will go buy one should I need it.

I also asked a wonderful Russian backyard Mercedes mechanic on youtube to watch the video and he also diagnosed timing chain and sprockets as well. He has some awesome DIY videos on various repairs so I'll post one at the bottom in case anyone can find help in them.

What would no compression mean with regard to the timing chain and sprockets?

I have searched this forum but can not find a DIY instruction on changing the sprockets and timing chain. If anyone can link me I would be very grateful.

One more question, I see some sprockets for sale on Ebay are black and others are Silver, Should I go for one over the other?

Many thanks
Jake

 
#21 · (Edited)
Jake,
Don't jump to conclusions.
Your first post said cam position sensors,,no signal.
That might be the problem. Cam position sensors are cheap and easy to replace. They are not the Cam magnets. They are not the Crank position sensor.
The M271 timing chain problem usually occurs after hearing pronounced rattling from the front of the engine. You did not have this.
Even if it was the timing chain,first thing is to replace the tensioner which is fairly cheap and easy.
I think if I were you I would replace the camshaft position sensors first.
If that doesn't work then take it to a good Mercedes mechanic to have it diagnosed properly,otherwise you could spend heaps fixing the wrong problem.
Changing the timing chain is not an easy job unless you are experienced
Spark plugs wet with fuel could be due to no spark,which could be due to no signal from the cam position sensors.
 
#22 ·
Thanks Benzyle,

Fortunately it started raining so I put off pulling the cam cover off. So glad you posted now.

You are correct, there was no rattling at all until it stalled of course (from which it has yet to turn back on from). I might have become a Mercedes hypochondriac reading and watching video's and then feeling those symptoms haha.

Is there a way I can test the cam position sensors with my multimeter? and just for clarification, where are those sensors located on my M271 engine? Is one of them next to the coil pack at the top of the engine?

Should I try and get hold of a compression tester?

Many thanks

Jake
 
#23 ·
I don't know if you can test them with a meter.
The intake CMP sensor is located on top of the valve cover,to the left of ignition coil 3.
The exhaust CMP sensor is on the right side of the head,near the middle,just below the valve cover.
Use a new o ring when replacing them.
I am no expert and it may be true that your timing chain has jumped a tooth,but if that is true you don't necessarily need new sprockets.
Just don't get too far ahead too soon.
A compression tester could help,although taking off the valve cover and inspecting the timing will do much the same.
It all depends how experienced and capable you are,as to whether you can reset timing and / or replace the chain,too hard for me I reckon.
Chain tensioner replacement is easy though.
Hopefully you don't have to do all this but check the info at the bottom of this
 
#24 ·
Good advice Benzyle, thanks again,

I checked a recall website and it irks me to know that the very same cars that were issued with recalls overseas have not been recalled in Australia despite the same issues.

Never have I attempted timing or otherwise but I can follow directions if I have the correct procedure guide. I think I have seen the procedure posted by Rudeny in one of the millions of threads I've read.

I will let you know how I go once I get the cam position sensors.

Cheers

Jake

I'm copying and pasting the text from that video here in case the youtube video disappears as they do sometimes. If it doesn't help me it might help someone in the future.

"P0010 solved!! Call Benz make sure all recalls have been done on car . change timing chain tensioner , adjust cam shaft where the lines on the cam line up with the arrows on cylinder head cover .torque the cylinder head cover in sequence starting with second row of bolts first !! Very important if the head cover isn't torqued enough the chain will jump a tooth ..specs call for 10 pounds but we broke a screw .. Get it as tight as possible with a ratchet no drill ..correct timing is 20 before top dead center .. Change the camshaft position sensor by the exhaust manifold .. Check for p0010 code if still present change camshaft adjuster magnets on front of motor clean connectors and check vacuum hose under air cleaner if code still exist change position sensor on top of motor.. clean wire harnesses going to all parts recently changed .. Good luck hope this helps someone some where"
 
#31 ·
UPDATE!

I pulled the cover off (eventually) and what I found was the Timing Chain was nice and tight but the Cam Sprocket teeth on the intake side were worn or broken, please see the video I recorded a few moments ago.





Now, This raises the questions - Do I need to change the timing chain?
- Do I need to replace both Sprockets?
- Can this job be done without pulling off the timing cover?
- Is there something else I should be checking at this point with the cover off?
- Does anyone want to buy these parts for me and do the job as a birthday present? Hahaha :grin:devil:wink

Appreciate all of your help so far

Jake
 
#32 ·
Well done so far.
The important bit is has the chain slipped and caused any damage?
Get a wrench on the crankshaft bolt and turn the engine over in a clockwise direction till you align the tdc mark on the crank pulley then look at the camshaft timing marks. You may need to turn the engine over twice to put the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke.
The youtube vids show you what to look for.
Look for broken cam followers on each cam lobe.

Have fun :))
 
#33 ·
Still seeking answers to these questions please -
- Do I need to change the timing chain?
- Do I need to replace both Sprockets?
- Can this job be done without pulling off the timing cover?
- Is there something else I should be checking at this point with the cover off?

Thanks Alec :)

So relieved to actually find something that I can visually confirm is not right.

I will get back out there at first light and turn the crank, What kind of damage should I be looking for? Will they be cracked? bent? shattered? hairline fractures etc or will it be obvious?
Do I need to take anything else off to inspect the cam followers?
If the timing is off (Which I strongly feel is why this all happened in the first place ) Should I just leave that until the new cam sprocket goes in?

I'll check the Youtube vids on this now.

Cheers :D
 
#34 ·
Here are the WIS docs for the job:

http://benzbits.com/M271/CamshaftAdjusters.pdf
http://benzbits.com/M271/CamshaftPosition.pdf
http://benzbits.com/M271/ValveCover.pdf
http://benzbits.com/M271/ReleaseTimingChain.pdf
http://benzbits.com/M271/TimingChain.pdf
http://benzbits.com/M271/TimingChainTensioner.pdf
http://benzbits.com/M271/FrontHeadCover.pdf

I would definitely replace the timing chain. As for replacing both camshaft adjusters, if the other one looks OK, I might leave it. Mainly because they are VERY expensive - US$760 each (MSRP).
 
#36 ·
It's always hard to say go "After Market" Jake, but really the 271 Motor is genuine and it's one big nightmare. I think the kit from Prestige Spares is a good deal and I believe they have a great reputation. Make sure you give them the VIN, and I'm sure they'll give you the right guidance.

You will end up with a very good car at the end of this and still have change out of the cost of a 2nd Hand Japanese Car plus experience experience experience!!!
 
#37 ·
Thanks Hutcho,

I have learned so much already haha
I was looking through the WIS that Rodney posted and I don't have a "wedge" or a "Chain Holding tool" I will see if I can hire them.

A local indy told me that as my car is parked on the street I should pull the chain through the top to do the job. Have you heard of doing it this way? I'm wondering what the pro's and con's are.

Thanks

Jake
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top