This is my wife's car. I'm going to go back a few weeks, I don't think these things have anything to do with today's problem, but I'm going to include them, just to be sure. For the past couple of months, we were getting a check engine light occasionally. It would go out after a couple of days, so I didn't pay much attention to it. One morning I was moving the car, the check engine light came on, and it was missing. The instruction manual said the spark plugs should be changed at 91,000 miles, and this car has 113,000 on it, so I ordered a set of plugs and put them in. This was about 3 weeks ago. Last week, the car wouldn't start on a very cold morning when she was at her daughters. A neighbor jump started her. When she got home, I checked our records, and the battery was 6 years old. The original had lasted 5 years, so I just put in a new battery. I should also mention that we are having a transmission issue, which I'm pretty sure is the conductor plate. I have the part, just haven't had time to put it in yet. Again, I don't think any of this has to do with today's problem.
This morning, my wife went to go to church, and the car wouldn't start. It would crank, but not fire. I put some gas in a spray bottle and sprayed it in the Mass Air Flow while it cranked, figuring if it was a fuel problem, it would at least sputter. It didn't sputter. I pushed the shrader valve at the end of the fuel rail, and gas squirted out. I did this a few times after cranking, and got a fuel squirt every time. This led me to believe it was not a fuel problem. I checked every fuse in all three fuse boxes with a meter, and all were good. I pulled one plug and held it against ground to see if there was a spark while it cranked, and there was none. I did some reading through this site, and it seems like most of the starting problems with this engine are caused by the crankshaft position sensor. I pulled the one on our car out, and I'm reading just about 1000 ohms between the terminals. One of the other threads I read, that guy said he got more like 1600 ohms on a known good sensor. In that thread, it was also suggested that he check relays A, B and G. So, my first question is can anyone tell me which relays are A, B and G, so I can check them? The second question is, based on the resistance readings, does it sound like my sensor is bad, and should I replace it? Thanks for the help. By the way, I would have had no clue that our transmission problem was the conductor plate if it were not for this forum.
This morning, my wife went to go to church, and the car wouldn't start. It would crank, but not fire. I put some gas in a spray bottle and sprayed it in the Mass Air Flow while it cranked, figuring if it was a fuel problem, it would at least sputter. It didn't sputter. I pushed the shrader valve at the end of the fuel rail, and gas squirted out. I did this a few times after cranking, and got a fuel squirt every time. This led me to believe it was not a fuel problem. I checked every fuse in all three fuse boxes with a meter, and all were good. I pulled one plug and held it against ground to see if there was a spark while it cranked, and there was none. I did some reading through this site, and it seems like most of the starting problems with this engine are caused by the crankshaft position sensor. I pulled the one on our car out, and I'm reading just about 1000 ohms between the terminals. One of the other threads I read, that guy said he got more like 1600 ohms on a known good sensor. In that thread, it was also suggested that he check relays A, B and G. So, my first question is can anyone tell me which relays are A, B and G, so I can check them? The second question is, based on the resistance readings, does it sound like my sensor is bad, and should I replace it? Thanks for the help. By the way, I would have had no clue that our transmission problem was the conductor plate if it were not for this forum.